Viviers, France

April 16, 2026

Last night, after dinner, we were entertained in the lounge by Chris the Crooner. He had a really good voice and did a lot of Buble, Sinatra and Great American Songbook selections.

Our day in Viviers started with a walk in the Ardeche village. We had Elsa as our guide again and she was terrific. Uniworld keeps the groups small, has a “soft walker” or as some call it “gentle walker” group for those who want to go slower, skip some of the big staircases, etc. They also use the quiet box system where all of the guides have a set with a microphone and we all have rechargeable devices that we charge every day when we return from tours. This makes the tours very easy for all to hear even when we are in crowds.

Viviers is a beautifully preserved medieval town overlooking the Rhône. Elsa again mentioned the sides of the river rivalry and said that on this side is the farmers and the other side is the posh! All in good fun it seems. She said that a lot of people she meets wonder what there is to see in Viviers – and she certainly showed us. Only about 6000 people live here so it is very quiet compared to Paris or Lyon.

The town is more than 1600 years old and still features the smallest cathedral in France and winding stone streets that seem frozen in time. Historically the town was divided between the clergy in the upper quarter and the laity in the lower one.

Sycamores line the streets and the houses here bear the watermarks of floods over the years.

The top of this piece of wood shows how high the flooding was in 2023
I don’t know what Santa is doing there. Apparently no one does!
Norm is teasing the cat in the window
And another is leading the way!

There are some beautifully painted walls and doors on our walk up the steep hills.

And the flowers are nice too.

We visited St. Vincent’s Cathedral which was built in the 12th century – he is the patron saint of wine, Elsa informed us.

The bishop’s chair
A very old pipe organ

The walk through the town took us up the hill on very winding and narrow roads. The people who live in this area either park at the bottom and walk up or at the top and walk down. It is very hard to maneuver a car through the streets.

Elsa told us about some of the bad history and the beheadings that took place. She used a term “they rest in pieces”!

I guess this is how you can tell if people have a hard time getting to the church at the top of the hill – AED in the church
One of the nearby nuclear plants

After our walk through town, we were taken to the home of a local resident who also operates a home share. He served us wine, a violet syrup which is mixed with water, local cheese, ham and baguettes and a type of pound cake while we listened to a local beekeeper and tasted the honey from her hives.

Their courtyard is very pretty.

Uniworld tries to provide local experiences in many ports. After this visit, we started our walk back to the ship where we could watch or participate in a game of pétanque, a game that is kind of like bocce or horseshoes.

Here is one of our passengers trying her luck against one of the village players
Two village men players with their balls (?!)

After lunch we had booked the truffle hunting and village of Grignan which is an extra “masterpiece collection” trip that you pay extra for. There are some choices like this in many ports and this is one that we didn’t want to miss. We were taken to the village by bus with our guide, Jeannine (who was a real hoot!)

Grignan is a medieval village in the Provençal countryside. We met the owner and Jeannette had to translate for the owner of the truffle farm, Christian. Both have very good senses of humor!

Christian explained the process of truffle farming. It is handed down through generations and he is now teaching his 10 year old grandson who he is proud to say knows almost all he needs to know about truffle farming.

Truffles grow on the roots of oak trees and you never know which trees will produce. It can take 8 – 10 years for trees to develop truffles. The roots of the trees travel into the earth until they hit the bedrock and then reverse themselves to get closer to the surface. There are summer truffles and winter truffles and also one that is farmed in between. The winter ones are the most valuable – they are called the black diamonds of France – and are sold at the daily auctions for $1000-$1300 Euros per kilo and 1.5 kilos can be sold in a day. He also has a broker that sells on his behalf. Trees produce for about 30 years. Acorns are infused and used to try to grow truffles but it is not always successful. After harvesting, the truffles checked for pests.

Pigs were used to find the truffles in the past but they got too big and hard to work with so these days dogs are used. Christian described how they train the dogs. The pigs didn’t need to be trained, it was an innate ability for them.

Christian’s dog, Ollie, led us through the area near the building where he was very successful in finding truffles. It isn’t really the best season for it so Christian wasn’t sure how many Ollie would find.

Ollie gets a treat when he is successful

It was such a fascinating tour! We finished with local wine and samples of many types of truffle based products on baguette slices.

This mountain is Mount Ventoux which is famous for its intense winds with severe gusts in 2016 forcing the Tour de France to shorten a stage and famously causing Chris Froome to run up the mountain on foot after his bike was broken. Known as the “Giant of Provence”, it is a legendary, desolate and extremely windy climb.

Jeannine gave us some other information about the area. Of course, Provence is famous for its lavender fields and you smell lavender everywhere. There are 3 varieties grown here. Wine is a famous product too and there are over 350 cellars in the area. You don’t see a lot of gardens because the vines are too valuable. Garlic and peaches are two other products of the area.

We had our next stop at Madison Bouachon in Chateaneuf du Pape for a wine tasting. We had a tour through some of the cellars and went on to a room for the tasting. The sommelier was very thorough in his explanation of how to taste the wines. We tasted one white and two reds. The reds were each paired with a chocolate.

While we were on our tour, the ship moved from Viviers to Chateauneuf de Pape where we met it in time for dinner. Those who didn’t do the tour sailed with the ship which could have been kind of confusing.

Old castle on the way back to the ship

After dinner there was something called “Silent Disco” in the lounge. We had never heard of it so had to check it out.

Basically you got a set of headphones that had three colors, each playing a different selection of music. And then you danced or moved to your own music which no one could hear but you. Very fun to watch and participate in.

The ship sailed to Avignon tonight and we will be on tour there tomorrow.

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The locks on the Saone and Rhône

April 2026

I thought I would do a separate posting about the locks that we travel through on our way south in France. We found them so interesting. We pass through 15 locks from Lyon to Arles. They were built between 1947 and 1980 to regulate the river. The Rhône was a difficult river to navigate because of the strong currents and the rapids. The locks also overcome the differences in elevation and allow boats to pass from one level of water to another. And, they generate a lot of hydroelectric power.

The total difference in elevation from Lyon to the Mediterranean is 531.5 feet.

The cost for our boat to go through the locks is about $30,000 Euros per year.

It usually takes 30 minutes to go through the locks, 5 minutes in, 20 minutes inside and five minutes out. There is very little space on either side of the boat when in the locks so the captains need to navigate from the outside so they can see the gaps on the sides.

The deepest lock is 76 feet. The locks are manual and are operated by staff in two central offices.

Before there were locks, boats had to be tracked with men and horses. Downstream with the current was easier but dangerous because of currents, shallows and floods. It used to take 3 weeks or more to move goods through. Now it takes 3 days.

It is said that the boatmen were normally non-swimmers so they would do everything they could to save the ship and the cargo. They also had painted oars covered with religious symbols to protect against hazards. I didn’t check to see if our crew can swim!

We saw two of the nuclear power plants on our trip. There are over 50 in France and five along the Rhône. They provide over 70% of the power needs in France. They also use wind power for about 20% and hydro-electric for about 8% and 2 % is solar. They sell electric power to neighboring countries. All except one of the locks is adjacent to the hydropower plants.

Later I will post about our day in Viviers.

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Tain L’Hermitage

April 15, 2026

Sometimes, our guides give us information about the country, costs, trends, etc. One of our guides shared that she is charged about 52 euros a month for her health insurance. Hard for us to even imagine!

Another told us when we were in Normandy that one family lost 4 sons in the war. After that a law was passed to limit enrollment to 2 sons.

We also heard the story about photography being invented in France.

Generally they seem to be very proud of their country.

The stories of the French Revolution when the uprising against wealth, religion and corruption are both frightening and inspiring in their own way. Outside on the wall of Notre Dame there are 28 statues that people of the French Revolution thought were the French kings, so they took down the statues and cut off their heads, like what was done to Marie Antoinette. Later they found out those were the Kings of Judah not French monarchs. The heads were lost for 200 years until they were unexpectedly rediscovered in 1977 during a renovation. They were preserved and are on display in the Musee de Cluny in Paris and new statues had been reconstructed.

Our trip today took us for a walking tour of the twin villages of Tournon and Tain L’Hermitage.

Our guide was Elsa who came from the Tournon side of the river. She entertained us with stories of the rivalry between the two town. Mostly a friendly rivalry….

We walked from our ship in Tain L’Hermitage to Tournon across an old wooden bridge that is only for pedestrians. We could see the remains of castles and everywhere on the hills in the distance – many grapevines.

The bridge was designed by Marc Seguin in the 17th century. He also invented the hot air balloon

Here are some other sights in the town.

This house was built right onto the church
The best view yet – the house attached to the church right over a CBD shop
Murals in the church
I bought some candy in this shop run by two brothers

Valrhona chocolate has a whole complex back across the river but I wanted to buy from the small shop. Later I heard that it would have been twice as costly at Valrhona!

Japanese cherry blossom

After some time to walk around the town, we crossed back over the bridge to go to a local wine shop where we heard all about this area of the Rhône Valley and the types of grapes that are grown here.

We tasted one white and two reds and paired them with cheese and baguette slices.

With new friends Frank and Arlene

We walked back to the ship for lunch. We are sailing in the afternoon so there was an afternoon lecture on Vincent Van Gogh and a demonstration and tasting of Crepes Suzette. Delicious.

Frank took a turn at making a crepe

Norm went up to the top deck and had to duck down when the ship went under some low bridges…

Tonight we have evening entertainment with Chris the Crooner in the lounge. Kassima says he sounds like Michael Buble. We will see.

Tomorrow we will have a full day. In the morning we will be in Viviers where, in the morning we have Ardeches Villages Day with a variety of local experiences and in the afternoon – the one I have been most looking forward to – the truffle farm. Norm says the temperature will be 75!

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Macon, France

April 14, 2026

Last night we were entertained after dinner by the husband and wife team of Magali and Jerome. They performed many popular songs and the dance floor was crowded! We have a large group of passengers from Brazil and they loved the selection of songs that they recognized and wow, can they dance!

Today we docked in Macon. It is a vibrant riverside town overlooking the Saone river. It is most known for its strong connection to the surrounding vineyards of southern Burgundy due to the mild climate. The town is more than 2000 years old.

We were not staying in Macon, though. With Andre as our guide, we headed to the small town of Beaune, about an hour away.

On the longer bus trips, we stop at a rest area and for sure the French know how to do rest areas! Large number of restrooms of course, but they are a bit of everything, store, coffee shop, restaurant, take away food, extensive gift shop, vending machines, bakery, etc. I remember they are like this in Italy too and probably other countries but nothing I have seen in the US can compare.

Even Starbucks

The sun was out today and it was just wonderful for our trip.

Andre stopped at an area called Puligny Montrachet near a vineyard to explain how the Romans introduced wine growing to this area over 2000 years ago. We have the monks to thank!

One of the wines Norm enjoys is Côtes du Rhône. Cotes means coast or incline and of course this is the area of the Rhône river.

We traveled on to Beaune, a small town brimming with history. Beaune was the seat of the warlike dukes of Burgundy until the 16th century. One of the things it is known for is its open air market, but it is not open today. It is a charming town and is also the home of the Fallot Dijon mustard factory. We took a walk to find it and did buy some.

This wine press is from the 16th century

Some sights in the town.

The wisteria is so beautiful everywhere we go
The bull is named beef bourguignon

Today is a long day and lunch was on our own. We wanted to explore so we again had our baguette sandwich picnic lunch right near this beautiful building.

The town was actually pretty quiet so we could walk through it with no problems at all.

Lots of layers are in order

After lunch we toured the Hospices de Beaune (Hotel Dieu Museum) which was a hospital initially to care for poor children. It was founded in 1443 by the chancellor of Burgundy, Nicolas Rodin and his wife, Guigone de Salins. What an amazing visit it was! Andre took his time to explain many features of the complex and how it has changed over the years.

Original slate roofs were a sign of wealth
But then, times changed and ceramic tiles were used

We really didn’t know what to expect and this visit really was eye opening. Here are some pictures of the inside. Things have been changed inside too, in many rooms there was a second floor.

The contraption in the bed was a bed warmer. The hot water in the pot warmed the bed, then the whole thing was moved on to another bed
If you look at the top of this stained glass window with Christ and the two thieves on the cross, you see that on the right is the ‘bad” thief – with the devil, and on the right, the “good thief” with the angel
Medical equipment of the day
Pharmacy
Model of the complex
Kitchen

There is a huge wine auction every year that supports the museum and the town. It has been taking place annually since 1859 on the third Sunday in November.

These paintings are by a Netherlandish artist, Rogier van der Weyden. It consists of oil on oak panels with parts later transferred to canvas. The first one has hinges and opens up to reveal the second. The imagery is really telling a story and it is worth looking up to read more, too much for me to write here. It depicts scenes from the Last Judgement.

The Hospice (not hospice as we think of it, but hospital) receives more than 300,000 visitors a year. It ceased functioning as a hospital in 1971. Hotel Dieu means House of God.

After the visit, we headed back to the ship in time to get ready for the dinner – again celebrating Uniworld’s 50th anniversary as we did on the last ship. Here’s the menu:

Delicious!

In the bar, it was Golden Night and we were invited to wear Gold attire, as we were on the last boat. I did have a dressy black, silver and gold top but we forgot to take a picture both nights. Here it is anyway without me in it!

Tomorrow we will be in Tain L’Hermitage and will visit the Twin Villages of Tournon and Tain L’Hermitage and have a tasting on wine from the region.

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Paris to Lyon

April 12 – 13, 2026

Well, our time in Paris has come to an end and we now board the high speed train to Lyon to board our next ship, the SS Catherine.

Our luggage was taken by truck to Lyon and will be waiting for us when we arrive.

We were escorted to the Paris train station by John who helped us navigate this huge station. We arrived at the station at 8:30 for a 10 AM train so we had time to walk around and enjoy some of the sights.

They have these kind of trails with raised borders for blind people to be able to navigate the station.

There was a lovely bread and pastry shop where we watched the staff create their masterpieces. We had a wonderful breakfast on the ship so we didn’t buy any.

There are so many chocolate shops in France and this one in the station was really outstanding. It’s the first time I have seen a chocolate toucan.

The train was very comfortable and fast. It was a 2 hour trip to Lyon. A bus picked us up to take us to the ship. Our rooms were not yet ready but we spotted our luggage. We had lunch and relaxed and soon our room was ready and we unpacked. Here is a picture of our room.

Before dinner, we had a drink in the bar and were then introduced to our general manager, Silvia, our cruise manager, Kassima and several of the bar staff. Kassima and Silvia were proud to say how many of the senior staff are women! The engineer, head sommelier, head housekeeper and head chef are all women. We will meet the rest of the staff tomorrow.

Captain Samuel Demonchaux
General manager Silvia
Cruise manager Kassima

We had dinner with two new friends, Terry and Alice from Charlottesville, Virginia. We really enjoyed getting to know them.

There was no evening entertainment tonight and we were pretty tired anyway, so we headed back to our room. We did get to speak to our sons and daughter in law (it was her birthday!) and my sister so our day was complete.

April 13 in Lyon

This morning we had a choice of the silk weaver walking tour or the panoramic tour with Traboules visit. We had initially chosen the silk one which was a total walking day but the day was a cold one with the potential for rain, so we switched. We also heard that there will be a silk presentation on the ship later. We were pretty spoiled with perfect weather for our previous 10 days. Today was 45 degrees, windy and cold. The rain held off until just about when our tour completed.

Our guide today was Emilie. We had a tour through the city – it is the third largest city in France behind Paris and Marseille and home to 190,000 college students. The city is at the confluence of the Saone and Rhône rivers and is also defined by twin hills.

We passed this large ornate cemetery and Emilie commented on how quiet the neighborhood is, the closest neighbors are dead. French humor I guess.

We visited the Notre-Dame de Fourviere Basilica which was built with private funds between 1872 and 1896. The inside is really amazing because of the mosaic murals that cover the walls. We sat for a while for Emilie to describe them. Then we had a bit of free time to wander in and around the church.

After that visit, we went to the Fourviere Hill where we had a lovely view of the town below. The Renaissance houses are striking and some are painted in colors.

The white tower is next to a large outdoor swimming pool

More pictures from the town.

Ribbons for remembrance

We then headed to the old town where we did a walking tour. A highlight was the silk shop. They will be coming to the ship later on so I will write more about it.

At one time there were 30,000 silk weavers here and almost half of the population was employed in the trade. The silks are famous and they are even being used in the Versailles restoration. The creation of such beautiful fabrics by hand is an incredibly strenuous task – in the past, a weaver could spend as much as 30 years of their life to decorate a single palace room.

Here are some other sights in the town. At one bakery, Emilie bought a large almond and red berry brioche for us to taste and we gathered outside the shop to enjoy it. Many Viking passengers passed by, thinking the shop was offering samples, Emilie told them it was only for Uniworld. I said she should have told them “next time come on Uniworld!” By the way, the brioche was delicious. It is the one on the second shelf. The top one is chocolate.

We were not at the right place at the right time as they say – to see the clock on a quarter hour when the puppets ring the bells and a trumpeter emerges from the top doors. It was beautiful to see just the same!

I didn’t know what the traboules were. It turns out that they are well hidden treasures of the Renaissance. They are in the old city, which is a UNESCO site and are shortcuts linking streets through one or more buildings. Most are private, but of the 500 that exist, about 80 are open to the public and we did get to go through one of them.

Not as big as the Eiffel Tower, not the same architect, but Emilie says it does improve cell phone reception!
Yes, it was cold, but we were prepared.
The city has the reputation of the gastronomic capital of France. We didn’t have time to sit at a restaurant today though

It just started to sprinkle as we returned to the ship after a great morning of touring Lyon. The warm peach tea they served on arrival back was so needed and delicious.

After lunch, the owners of the silk shop, Brochier Soieries, came to the ship to tell us about the Brochier family that has been handing down a tradition born in Lyon in the 16th century. They manufacture exceptional natural silk fabrics and printing artists scarves and neckties. Four generations followed one another since the creation of the factory. The collection has a wealth of more than 100,000 textile designs and they print products for the greatest museums in the world. They still use the hand silk screening technique and wood block printing for coloring their products. They gave a presentation with slides to show their process. It takes 500 silk worm cocoons to produce one small scarf!

They brought many scarves to show us and showed how each layer of color is applied.

Avignon where we will visit later in the week. I bought this one.
Lyon at night
One of a kind silk and velvet

I bought two, the Avignon and a colorful design one.

We had a demonstration of scarf tying and got a printed brochure too

Tonight we will have a talk about the activities on the coming days, the Gala dinner and evening entertainment with Magali and Jerome (no idea what they do…yet).

Tomorrow we will arrive in Macon where we have a full day called Burgundy landscapes, Beaune walking tour and the hospices. Lunch will be on our own so we will get to experience some of the delicious food of the region.

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Back to Paris, France

April 11, 2026

Because we spent 3 days in Paris before the river cruise, we have a relaxed afternoon, so I am catching up on my posts.

We chose to do a walking tour of the Latin Quarter and we were happy to have Aurelie for our guide again today.

We took a bus for a short trip to the St. Germain area and walked the narrow, historic streets, all to the commentary by Aurelie. The Latin Quarter is named for the many students in this area and was home to icons like Matisse, Picasso, Rimbaud, Sartre and Hemingway.

Waiting for the bus
This is the Saint Sulpice church with its one unfinished bell tower due to a dispute with the architect. While the Louvre was under construction after the fire, this became its replacement
Beautiful fountain in front of the church
A chocolate shop from 1761 when chocolate was not allowed to be given to children
This coffee shop was a favorite one of artists. During and after the revolution, coffee was very scarce and was mixed with vegetable skins. This cafe served the first real coffee

Apartments are very expensive in Paris so most people go out for their coffee and pastries since they do not have much room and rarely have dining space. The cafes have tables facing out so customers can people watch.

This used to be a monastery where the monks created manuscripts on sheepskins. It took three sheep to produce one page and the manuscripts were often 300 pages long and took two years to finish. That’s a lot of sheep!

Inside is all painted
The best chocolate these days is found at Le Roux shops according to Aurelie
Area where the first beheading with a guillotine took place
There are many bridges and boats going by
There is an annual competition for the best baguette. This place won last year
Garden near the Louvre

After our walking tour, we went to Shakespeare and Company and I just had to have a real Paris hot chocolate. Delicious.

Love the hats

Aurelie told us about the prices for health care and education, both of which are much lower than in the US. To get a PhD at the Sorbonne for example, it would be about $3000 euros per year. And a dental checkup and cleaning costs 28 euros.

And then it was back to the ship for lunch and to write my delayed blog posts and start packing for our train trip to Lyon tomorrow. They will take our bags by truck so we need them out by midnight.

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Mantes-la-Jolie, France

April 10, 2026

As we awoke this morning, we were reminded of how, during yesterday’s ceremony, we were thanked as Americans, for the help we provided France, and how grateful they are. They again thanked us for coming back. Our guide also thanked us today and said if it wasn’t for us, they would be speaking German. Each year 300 veterans still visit and Normandy beaches have 4 million visitors a year from all over the world.

Our trip today is to Versailles. We have visited previously but today, our visit will include the secret apartments of the palace. The trip took about 30 minutes. Our guide was Aurelie and she was wonderful, as all of the guides have been.

Versailles is an elegant town just southwest of Paris, known worldwide for its palace but beloved by locals for its culture and quality of life. It grew up as a town in the 17th century alongside Louis XIV’s court. Wide geometric avenues radiate from the palace and the same configuration exists in Washington DC and St. Petersburg, Russia.

Versailles was the official residence of the country’s kings and queens from 1682 until the revolution. The Louvre was the palace before that. There are 2300 rooms in the palace of Versailles – of course not all are available for touring! This was originally a modest hunting lodge with large stables across the street and was turned into the palace. All of the buildings with the gold on top were part of the original hunting lodge. The gold is gold leaf and must be carefully applied by hand. Can you imagine that? The extravagance helped fuel the rage that led to the revolution.

We went in through the group entrance, which meant no waiting, and the group could not be more than 25. One couple had to leave our group so we were 24 which made the visit really wonderful as the private apartments are not open to individual visitors.

Aurelie had many stories about the royalty of the time. Louis XIV married Marie Antoinette at age 16. He had many mistresses over his lifetime and the mistresses lived in a separate set of rooms near the king’s rooms. Marie Antoinette was a modern thinking woman for her time. For example, she refused to wear the corsets that were so tight that women fainted because they couldn’t breathe! Also, it was the custom for children to be raised separately from their parents until age 7 and she refused to do that and kept them with her. She had 4 children.

Louis XIV was responsible for some of the known ballet moves – he was a skilled dancer and was proud of his dancer’s legs!

Louis XVI became an orphan at 5 years old and suffered all his life from depression. He was married and reportedly never had mistresses!

I will share photos from the secret apartments and then from the state apartments. There is much too much to post so I will have to choose.

This is Louis XVI, he had the shortest wig!
Louis XIV with the muscular legs
This clock is from the 17th century and is programmed to go to the year 9999. You can see that it is on 2026, 30 days in this month but the date is slightly off due to slight time adjustments
Fabric was very expensive, the equivalent of 1500 euros for a piece the size of your thumb. You can only imagine the reams of fabric in this palace.

Candles were expensive too. There were about 6000 candles in the palace and ONE candle cost the equivalent of the salary of a worker’s week. Most of the furnishings were sold off during and after the French Revolution.

Original roll top desk
This is a thermometer that records in Celsius. What is unique about it is that at various levels, there is also a word that describes the temperature. At 0, it says ice, for example. There are markings for bath!
Marie Antoinette and three of her 4 children. The black covering on the crib signifies the one who died
The queen’s bed. King and Queen slept separately and the Queen’s bed is the “king sized” one!

Once we got to the state apartments, it was much more crowded. The art, tapestries, etc, are amazing but a highlight is always the Hall of Mirrors.

The Hall of Mirrors where the ruler of France held court. Mirrors were so expensive they could cost more than the whole palace. They were brought in from Italy

Aurelie told us that she had a surprise for us and led us down to the chapel which was empty except for another tour group. This is a private area that we were allowed into after a guard opened it with a key!

This building was the original stables

We had a really enjoyable day. Aurelie really brought the palace and the period of history to life and I am sure I didn’t remember it all.

We had some time to rest and have a beverage before heading back to the ship

This is Uniworld’s 50th anniversary so there was a Captain’s Farewell and Golden Cocktail reception and a Golden dinner, followed by entertainment by a wonderful singer, Celine.

The chandelier and entrance to the ship
The amazing dessert
The bartenders were all decked out
Celine was great – much singing and dancing too

Tomorrow we go back to Paris and will do a walking tour of the Latin Quarter. Then it will be time to pack for our trip to Lyon to board the SS Catherine for the next segment of our trip.

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Back to Rouen, France for visit to Normandy Beaches

April 9, 2026

There is so much to say about this day – I have to start somewhere! We chose to go with Martin for this tour. We have had him as a guide several times already and he did the WWII lecture so we knew how deep his historical knowledge goes.

The trip to the beaches from Rouen takes 2 1/2 hours so there was lots of time for commentary. We learned that gas is very expensive here because they need to import all of their oil – it is about $12/gallon, but that due to lots of windmills and nuclear plants, electricity is very inexpensive. There are lots of electric cars and charging stations.

Martin told us that there are 29 cemeteries in France for war casualties. We will visit the highlights of the American sites. There are only 7 non Americans on our ship and they have a separate small vehicle to take them to the Commonwealth and British/Canadian sites. We have met one couple from UK and and three people from Australia but don’t know the other two.

At the beaches of Normandy, 160,000 soldiers landed by sea and air. The conditions were not great, and the landing was actually delayed by a day from June 5 to June 6. Martin talked about the strategic decisions made by Eisenhower and how this invasion was ultimately a success in spite of the forces being greatly outnumbered by the Germans. In fact, Hitler was led to believe by information from spies that the landing would not take place in Normandy but in a site closer to the narrowest part of the channel between England and France.

We decided to re-watch the movie “The Longest Day” since Martin referred to it a lot.

On the drive, we saw the yellow covered fields that we have seen all through our travels in this area. They are rapeseed fields. Rapeseed is primarily used to make canola oil.

The battle of Normandy is considered to be 24 hours that changed history. It began with air assaults shortly after midnight on June 6, 1944. Allied troops took part in the largest seaborne invasion in history. With this campaign – code named Operation Overlord – the allies established a 55 mile long coastline. By day’s end, more than 160,000 Allied troops had landed in France, loosening Hitler’s once firm grip on Western Europe and paving the way for the liberation of Paris less than 3 months later on August 15, 1944.

Our first stop was at Utah Beach where the assault began in the early hours of the morning with US parachutists from 2 airborne divisions. Hampered by poor visibility, complicated terrain and artificially flooded fields, they eventually captured Sainte-Mere-Eglise, the first town liberated in the invasion.

This red roofed house is significant because the landing was originally set to be on the other side of it. If that had happened, it might have failed!

We headed to the town of Sainte-Mere-Eglise where we visited the church. The US Army paratrooper Private John Steele became famous when his parachute caught on the steeple of the church. He hung there for 2 hours, playing dead before being captured, escaping and rejoining his unit. A mannequin remains on the church today.

We visited the airborne museum, had a nice picnic lunch and wandered through the market.

A French lawn mower!

We visited the American Cemetery which is now US land. It is a sobering place with the markers perfectly lines up to remind visitors of how many lives were lost. There are 9386 graves here. Only 4 women were buried here, US nurses.

Map of the battles
This is a very long wall with names of those who have never been found. When one of the soldiers is found, a black mark is put on the area of his name.
This statue represents the valor of youth called to battle

Our next stop was Pointe du Hoc, the site of one of the most daring operations of the Allied landings. There are many bomb craters and artillery batteries which serve as stark reminders of the battles fought here. The sea wall allowed the troops to shoot from either way.

Our last stop was Omaha Beach. This area was fortified by German batteries and proved to be a deadly objective. Wave after wave of troops from the US 1st and 29th Infantry Divisions were cut down. However the few who managed to scale the beach’s steep slopes breached the German defenses by midday. To the west the strategic German defense at Pointe du Hoc was scaled quickly but taken only after significant losses by the US 2nd Ranger Battalion.

We were each given a rose before a very touching ceremony was held.

One of our guides conducted the ceremony. A local trumpeter played the star spangled banner and then taps, followed by a moment of silence. Our guide read the following from the speech given by Eisenhower at the 20th anniversary of the battle.

To all the peoples of the world, I once more give expression to America’s prayerful and continuing inspiration:

“We pray that peoples of all faiths, all races, all nations, may have their great human needs satisfied; that those now denied opportunity shall come to enjoy it to the full; that all who yearn for freedom may experience its spiritual blessings; that those who have freedom will understand, also, its heavy responsibilities; that all who are insensitive to the needs of others will learn charity; that the scourges of poverty, disease and ignorance will be made to disappear from the earth, and that, in the goodness of time, all peoples will come to live together in a peace guaranteed by the binding force of mutual respect and love.”

I had tears in my eyes during the whole ceremony. We then took our roses and laid them at the foot of the memorial. Some chose to put them into the sea.

It was a long, emotional and tiring day. We had our dinner back on the ship and went to bed early. Tomorrow will be at Mantes-La-Jolie and our tour of the Palace of Versailles.

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Caudebec-en-caux

April 8, 2026

We arrived to our port very early after traveling from Rouen at night. Our tour today is a walking tour in a nearby village, Honfleur.

It was a short bus ride to the village and on our way there, our tour guide, Stephanie (who happens to be our other guide – Martin’s wife) told us about the area.

Honfleur is known as one of Normandy’s most enchanting port towns, tucked where the Seine River meets the English Channel. Its heart is the Vieux Bassin, a small 17th century harbor lined with tall, narrow, slate covered houses. A young Claude Monet spent time painting here. The history dates back to the 11th century and its port launched explorers like Champlain, who sailed from here to found Quebec.

One of the most surprising things was the thatched roof houses. We have seen them in other places before, but never with irises planted on top of them! The roots are long and help to stabilize the roofs!

Here are some of the sights in the town.

There are many buildings with a lot of different materials used over the years
Lots of the half timbered houses from the 16th century
In this area across the river, the connected houses are all in jeopardy as the one with the white surrounding it is ready to collapse . Stephanie says if one goes, they all might collapse
St. Catherine’s Church

Honfleur is near Lisieux, home of St. Theresa. I was fascinated by her as a teenager.

Good thing they have small cars here

It was a lovely day and the weather was perfect.

We had a cocktail party for the river Heritage Club members (at least one previous cruise with Uniworld) and Captain Dave, Woody and Ruben came around to each table to thank us for our loyalty.

After dinner, we had entertainment by the Hot Stompers, a New Orleans style jazz band. They were terrific!

Tomorrow will be a long and emotional day – we visit the beaches of Normandy. It is a 2 1/2 hour bus ride so we leave at 7:15 and won’t be back until about 7 PM. I have been there many years ago but Norm has not. We think it will be one of the highlights of the trip. Stay tuned.

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Rouen, France

April 7, 2026

This morning we did a walking tour of Rouen with our guide, Elodie. Please note the French shoes!

We really enjoyed this city. It is the historic capital of Normandy and is a beautifully preserved medieval city. It is France’s only UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy.

The skyline is dominated by the magnificent Notre-Dame Cathedral which Monet painted more than 30 times. Victor Hugo called Rouen the city with a hundred bell towers. The one of Notre-Dame briefly made it the tallest building in the world.

The cathedral took 400 years to build, between the 12th and the 16th century and acquired many spires and styles as it was expanded and renovated in different eras. On the opposite side of the square is the former treasury building where Monet had an apartment and was used as his studio.

The former treasury building across from the cathedral
There was a Mass with a glorious children’s choir

There is a stunning astrological clock, the Gros-Horloge.

Some of the other sights around the city include the half timbered houses, restaurants, brasseries and some charming streets and alleys.

And shops for delicious pastries!

This is the place du Vieux-Marche, the site where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake. Elodie told us the story of how Joan helped Charles become king and that she needed to be executed as a witch at the age of 19 to protect his reign. She was actually exonerated 25 years after her execution in 1431. There is a striking modern church near the site. The stained glass windows were preserved during the war and re-used in this church.

We returned to the ship for dinner and went out again for a 9 PM concert in the Notre-Dame cathedral. It was simply amazing. The cathedral has wonderful acoustics and seemed even more magical at night. The choir had about 30 men and women. They started with an excerpt from the Hallelujah Chorus, did one selection in English, Simple Gifts from Appalachian Spring. The cathedral is a short walk from the ship so we were back by about 10:15. I hope I can insert the video even though it doesn’t do it justice!

They told us it would be cold in there at night!

Tomorrow we will visit the village of Honfleur which is about a 1 hour trip from where we will dock in Caudebec-en-caux.

Posted in April, Europe, Europe trip and river cruise, Excursions, France river cruise | 1 Comment