Passau, Germany

November 5, 2019

This is our first stop in Germany. The forecast was for rain so we opted to tour the town vs going with the Walk and Discover group on the hike where we would not have visited the town. As it turned out, it didn’t rain until we were back on the ship. But the town was charming with plenty to see.

First, though, It want to mention something unique from Melk that I forgot to write about yesterday.

We saw a reusable coffin! It had a trap door that could be opened by a lever when the coffin was placed inside the grave opening. The reusable coffin was invented to accommodate a 1784 decree by Holy Roman Emperor Joseph II. He ordered that bodies must be interred without clothes in linen bags to save wood and hasten decomposition. Under the decree, coffins could be used only for transporting the body to the cemetery. Joseph’s decree was so unpopular that it was never implemented. False but persistent claims that the body of Mozart, who died in Vienna in 1791, was placed in a reusable coffin are reflected in the movie Amadeus.

Passau is close to the Austrian border in Bavaria. People here actually consider themselves more Austrian than German. It is known as the “city of three rivers” because the Danube is joined here by the Inn and the Ilz. Because of this, the town has had many major floods and there is a wall that has markings that indicate the year and the water level.

Our cruise director, Jessie (who is from Amsterdam) took us around the town- it is one of her favorites. We have the whisper system with earphones that recharge in our cabins which makes it easy to hear the guides even if we get separated by short distances.

Jessie told us about the town’s history and the manufacturing of swords here. The symbol of the town is the Wolf and it was stamped on the blades of the swords which the warriors believed would protect them.

Here is a lot of dark history here including the hangman, which pretty much every town had back in medieval times. Also Nazi history – Hitler lived here as a boy and Himmler lived here for a period too.

Most of the town is in Baroque style as a result of rebuilding after a devastating fire in 1662 when most of the city was destroyed.

We visited St. Stephen’s Cathedral (yes, every town seems to have a St. Stephen’s!) which has the world’s second biggest organ with 17,774 pipes and 233 registers. It is a beautiful example of Baroque architecture.

The Old Residence and the New Residence housed the clergy and now are used as museums. Also beautiful Baroque buildings.

The Old Town Hall has a pretty garden courtyard and interesting paintings on the outside.

We had time to walk the streets and alleys and to visit another church (there are 47 here) where we sat to listen to the organ. One of the shops had magnificent cuckoo clocks of all sizes as well as nutcrackers and ornate beer steins. It is beer country after all. Jessie says you have to have a sausage and a beer in every town! As we travel further north, it will be more wine country but Bavarian beer is the thing here!

As I write this, we are going through one of the 66 locks and it seems like the concrete wall is just inches from our cabin and its floor to ceiling windows! Very interesting to pass through so many.

Tomorrow we will be in Regensburg. We are enjoying this ship, the friendly staff and the other passengers. We have met people from Australia and the UK and just a few other Americans. Great to chat with them and, as always, learn from others.

Posted in Europe, Europe trip and river cruise, November | 3 Comments

Melk, Austria

November 4, 2019

The morning we arrived at our last Austrian city, Melk. We were divided into groups to tour the Melk Abbey. The Walk and Discover group is always #4, so we had the last tour. It is a lovely sunny day and we took a bus up the hill to the Abbey. This charming town has only 5000 residents. The highlight is the Abbey which starred life as a Hapsburg Palace. It has been a monastic school since the 12th century with a library that is world renowned for its extensive collection. It was reconstructed in the Baroque style in the first 40 years of the 18th century. The building has 468 rooms and 1365 windows! It contains a high school for 700 students. Mozart has performed concerts here.

Reinhold was our guide through the courtyard and the museum areas of the Abbey which highlight the history through the years. Unfortunately no photos were allowed but we later bought a small book with explanation and pictures. I put two on Facebook along with pictures I took of the outside and the views.

The whole place was just spectacular- the library contains 100,000 documents, many rare manuscripts and all the books were re-covered to look the same. The church is the most beautiful I have ever seen and I have seen hundreds.

After our visit we walked through the town and through a forest area and returned to the ship for lunch. We left this port at 1:45. We will travel next to Passau in Germany and it is fun to watch the beautiful small towns and experience the many locks along the way. I had the opportunity to have a wonderful hot stone massage followed by tea with a special apricot Austrian dessert… Just had to try that!

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Vienna, Austria

November 3, 2019

After our previous 2 full days in Vienna, we were looking forward to returning, and we were not disappointed. After breakfast, we joined a one hour bus tour of the city around the Ringstrasse, the ring road that surrounds the historic section. This is where the original wall stood, encircling the old city and the ring road totally replaced it by 1960. The magnificent St. Stephen’s Cathedral is in the very center of the ring. We saw many of the sights that we had explored last week including the beautiful Opera House, which is the largest in Austria and considered one of the best in the world. Like so many historical buildings, it was largely destroyed in WW II, rebuilt and reopened in 1955. Our guide, Michelle, was a wealth of knowledge.Then we had a walking tour and we explored the Hofburg Palace with its 18 courtyards (we didn’t see all 18)! The Palace has thousands of rooms but we did not tour the inside. It is also the home of the crown jewels, relics of the Holy Roman Empire, the Vienna Boys Choir and the famous Spanish Riding School. It houses the world’s 4th largest art collection.We saw the Lipizzaner stallions in their stables and I did get some photos of them. Beautiful. The new riders start with the oldest horses to learn as the horse teaches THEM!

The city is known, of course, for music and the main composer is Johann Strauss. Every concert here includes the Danube Waltz. Vienna remains the last great capital of the 19th century ball with over 200 still held every year, some with as many as 9 live orchestras! We were fortunate to have attended 2 concerts previously and had an extraordinary string quartet on board after dinner too.

The city has 1.8 million people and it is quite large in area, 4 times larger than Paris. There are really no slums since the city has ordinary housing in amongst the beautiful historic buildings and this works well.

After our walking tour (many items covered in my first Vienna post), we ended at the Cathedral during mass. I walked in just to hear the music. Then we returned to the ship for lunch since we were on the Walk for Discovery tour in the afternoon.

What an experience that was! I wrote that it is the first time it is being offered. There were 26 of us in the group. We went on a 1 hour bus ride back towards Bratislava to a small town called Hainburg. We were met by two guides in traditional dress. The town is on the banks of the Danube and the ride here was beautiful- thousands of windmills, many vineyards and views of the river too. The wind generation of power is one of Austria’s biggest industries.

The hike took us along the river, to the ruins of the castle of Rothelstein and then into the forest and up to Braunsberg, a limestone massive rock overlooking the Danube and the views were stunning. (Posted some pics on Facebook). It was windy at the top and many families were flying kites up there. It was a strenuous walk, but the group made it! We will see how many continue on the next 4 of these special events! Our guides entertained us with history and legends all along the way. We ended with a short walk to the center of Hainburg where we heard some of the bloody history near the old city walls. Then our guide entertained us by playing the hurdy gurdy in the shadows of the ancient wall. A great way to end the day here.

It was dark on the way back to the ship and also a bit rainy- we were glad it held off all day.

After dinner, a string quarter came on board for a one hour performance which was just wonderful. Tomorrow is our last day in Austria – the town of Melk.

This afternoon I have to say we had our cell phones tuned to the NY Marathon site where our son Adam was running in his third NY! We could follow his run and were so proud of him. Congratulations, ✨ Adam. ❤

Our other son Mark and his wife Ramsay are on the first leg of their 2 month honeymoon. 🎊💕

Adventures all around in our family. Stay tuned for more.

Posted in Europe, Europe trip and river cruise, Excursions, November | 1 Comment

Bratislava, Slovakia

November 2, 2019

Bratislava is Slovakia’s largest city and its capital. It is only a 1 hour drive to Vienna which makes these two cities the world’s closest capitals. It is the only national capital that borders on two independent countries – Austria and Hungary.

We arrived about 1 PM today after our trip on the Danube from Budapest. We passed through one of the 66 locks that we will encounter on our trip to Cologne, Germany.

Our guide here was Maria and she was excellent. We first took a small train to the Bratislava Castle which was a fortress in the 9th century and became a Renaissance castle in 1562. It was rebuilt in the 17th century in the baroque style, was destroyed by fire in 1811 and was in ruins until the 1950’s when it was rebuilt. It is on a hill and the wind was very strong so everyone was shivering! But we enjoyed the castle and the gardens. The statues of soldiers on the two archways have no arms or heads since the ruler at that time was making a statement against wars.

The town is a delight, with a town hall that dates back to the 14th century. St. Michael’s Gate is impressive as are the churches, opera house and Presidential Palace. We had free time and went to the oldest shop to purchase local wine and Slovak pastries. Yum!

Maria shared a lot of history including what it was like in Communist times – they seized power in 1948 – and took over many buildings, changing them to the stark Soviet architecture. Some still exist today. After the fall of Communism in 1989, Czechoslovakia became a democratic society. The “Velvet Divorce” occurred in 1993 and the country split peacefully into Slovakia and the Czech Republic. Maria said that the decision was political and that if there was a referendum, probably 75% of the population would have voted against it.

We are on a riverboat that has almost all British passengers, so they chuckled at the mention of “referendum” given what they are going through with Brexit! We have heard there might be one other American couple but we haven’t met up with them yet.

There is a bridge with an observation area on the top that they call the UFO. We could see people above it outside, it must have been really cold up there.

We are enjoying life on board the Emily Bronte which is part of the Riviera Cruise line. We enjoyed the hot tub yesterday with the sights of Budapest at dusk in the background. The food has been excellent and Jessie and Gabor, our cruise director and concierge, are very good. The only disappointment is the wifi, as I have mentioned in a previous post. So I have posted some pictures on Facebook when we are on shore and I can get fast wifi. Too cold and too packed of a schedule to add photos here though, my apologies for that. I will try to fill in when I can.

Tonight we leave for Vienna and since we spent a couple of days there last week, we are looking forward to our return. We joined in an optional walking tour package in 5 ports and the first one is tomorrow after our regular sightseeing tour. Apparently this will be hiking in the forest near Vienna. This is the first time they have offered this option and will be wanting our feedback. 28 of us have signed up. Should be fun.

Every evening after dinner Jessie gives us highlights of the next port. There is also a pianist in the lounge. No casino of course, so my evenings end earlier than on the world cruises!

Posted in Europe, Europe trip and river cruise, Excursions, November | 1 Comment

Budapest, Hungary

November 1, 2019

We were glad that we had 3 previous days in Budapest because today was a national holiday and a lot of places, including all shops except those run by families (very few) were open. Even the City Market was closed and it is something to see, we had 2 meals there. CNN rated it one of the best markets in the world. Hungary is known for paprika and goose liver pate and there are many shops that sell both.

The tour with the cruise was an excellent one. Unfortunately the WiFi is still too slow to post pictures but I will give a narrative of what we did and what we learned, and add pictures at a later time (maybe even when we return home!)

Hungary is now 1/3 the size it once was and has a population of 10 million of which 1.7 million live in Budapest. This capital is really 2 cities, Buda and Pest pronounced Pecht. 2/3 of the population lives on the Pest side and our hotel before we got on the river boat, was on that side overlooking the Buda Palace across the Danube River. The Buda side is richer.

Our guide spoke flawless English and said that she learned it in secret under the blankets of her bed in Communist times…. From Michael Jackson! English was not taught and was forbidden to learn in Communist times. It is said that Hungarian is the second hardest language in the world after Chinese.

The tour was by bus and ended at Buda Castle, which we had explored a couple of days ago. we still walked around that area as it is huge and beautiful. The buildings are all museums now. We wanted to see the Hospital in the Rock, but it was closed so we only saw the outside. 2/3 of this city was bombed and destroyed so much has been rebuilt since WW II.

The synagogue here is the largest in Europe and the second largest in the world. It was designed by Catholic architects and because of that it has an organ which is not typically part of synagogues. Outside of the synagogue is a cemetery and a tree of life in silver commemorating the 600,000 Hungarian Jews that were killed during the Holocaust. There are 600 leaves each engraved with the name of a family member killed. We revisited the synagogue and had a guided tour on Wednesday. It can hold 6000 people, 3000 sitting and 3000 standing!. And it is beautiful inside and out. It was rebuilt with generous donations from Tony Curtis and Estee Lauder both of whom were born here.

Hungary has the richest geothermal springs in the world and there are 24 spas here. They have to actually cool the water before it can be used in the pools!

Like in Vienna, coffee shop culture is big, dating back to the times when people lived in very small apartments with no heat or electricity and so they went to coffee shops for much of the day and evenings. Most buildings had a coffee shop in those days and it is still very popular.

As really had a chance to see so much of the city in our 4 days here. We enjoyed their food, wine and hospitality. We planned to do the hop on hop off bus on Wednesday but the concierge at our hotel advised against it because Putin was coming to Budapest and the traffic would be bad. So we walked everywhere that day. And we got stopped along the street for about 30 minutes because his motorcade was going to pass and the police would NOT let us cross. We have never seen so many police in a city before- they were everywhere.

So we did the hop on hop off on Thursday after taking our bags to the riverboat. It was fun and we did have an overview but our guide on Friday was much better.

it am writing this as we travel the Danube on our way to Bratislava, Slovakia. We just passed through a lock. There are 66 locks on our way to Cologne!

I will write more from Bratislava. On we go!

Posted in Europe, Europe trip and river cruise, Excursions, November | 1 Comment

River cruise starts

We are aboard the beautiful Emily Bronte and will leave Budapest tomorrow evening so have one more day to explore the city.

I have heard that some people (including Norm) didn’t get the photos in the Vienna post and I have not been able to upload the Budapest post that I started.

The good news about the WiFi on the boat is that we have it free on every device unlike the Oceania Insignia where we get just one account for one device at a time. The bad news is that it is incredibly slow and only apparently good for email.

One item I am going to try to post here is the heartrending display by the river. It is called Shoes by the Danube and is 60 pairs of bronze shoes modeled on footwear from the 1940’s. It is to commemorate those who were shot into the Danube by the Hungarian Nazis.

Well, the photo will not even upload into the blog, so for sure it won’t publish.. So no photo of the shoes. I will have to post that later.

So, my plan is to compose the blogs and try to upload them from shore if possible. Or I may need to upload them all at once when we get home!. So sorry about that but satellite WiFi is a challenge!

Posted in Europe, Europe trip and river cruise, November | 4 Comments

Vienna, Austria

October 27 and 28, 2019

We went from Prague to Vienna by train, Railjet, which is a fast train. It took us 4 hours and 10 minutes and we had good wi-fi aboard.  I even watched a movie – but also watched the beautiful countryside as we traveled.

We stayed at the Hilton Vienna Plaza which was located very close to all of the beautiful museums and historical sights. Here’s the view from our window!

It was a beautiful day, so we went out walking right away. Here are some of the sights we saw.

We walked to the Jewish Museum where we saw this impressive memorial dedicated to the 65,000 Austrian Jews who were exterminated during the Holocaust.

We visited St. Stephen’s Cathedral which is the tallest structure in Vienna and is simply spectacular. Over 3 million people a year visit here.

The original church was built in 1147. Several fires and bombings led to reconstruction over the years.The multicolored roof tiles were replaced after a fire and add a very different artistic element to the church. Here are some pictures of the inside.

We continued our walk, had dinner at the Opera restaurant across from the gorgeous opera house, and headed toward the Kursalon for a concert.

The concert featured selections from Mozart, Strauss and others.  There were voice and ballet performances as part of the concert.  Photos during the performance were prohibited but here is the inside of the Kursalon.  It was built in 1865-1867 in the Italian Renaissance style.  Strauss earned his title as the “Waltz King” here and there is a golden statue of him outside the building.

Of course, before the concert, we had to have the famous Sachertorte! Good thing we shared it – delicious but very rich.

A terrific first day.

On our second day in Vienna, we had booked a NY Times Journey called “Vienna: Historical Food, Wine and Coffee Tour”. Their tours are based on the NY Times 36 hours series.

To see the actual specifics of the tour (which we HIGHLY recommend), you can click here.

We walked to the meeting place and were met by our two guides for the tour, Patrick and Wolfgang. They asked why we chose this tour and then told us we were the first two people to book it – and would be the only ones on the tour!  They do other tours for Urban Adventures but this was the first NY Times Journey tour.  They have been trying to work with the NY Times and it finally happened.

It was the best day!  For one thing, we had individual attention all day.  It was supposed to be a 3 hour tour and it lasted almost 5 hours. Wolfgang is on the left and Patrick on the right in the picture below.  They were outstanding.

We had a stop at Daniel Moser, a coffee cafe, and the owner gave me a lesson on making the specialty coffees.  Then we got to enjoy them.  Wolfgang told us how coffee and wine bars are gathering places in the neighborhoods where people can stay as long as they want and are never pressured to order more.  Lots of great conversations happen over coffee.  On November 1, all public establishments will be non smoking – and there were still people smoking here.

What fun to learn how to make these drinks and they were delicious too!

And of course I liked the sign between the restrooms!

From there we went on to the synagogue in the Jewish quarter where we almost didn’t get in because we didn’t know we needed our passports.  Luckily the guard knew Wolfgang and Daniel and our driver’s licenses were sufficient.  Lots of security including armed guards around the synagogue.

We had a long talk by a guide in the synagogue – lots of  information and context for the building and its history. 

The Stadtempel is the main synagogue in Vienna.  It is huge and beautiful.  It was never destroyed in the war during Kristalnacht (when all of the other 93 synagogues and prayer houses in Vienna were destroyed) because it is in the midst of other houses (and does not look any different from them) and also there was an old church nearby and the Nazis were afraid to burn it because the church and other buildings would burn too.  People took the scrolls out and hid them before the synagogue was entered by the Nazis.

We did get to see the beautiful doors behind which the scrolls are kept today.

Our tour was a walking tour and we did a LOT of walking! Next we visited the only kosher winery in Vienna.  The owner is a former mechanical engineer who sold his company intending to retire but found that he missed people too much and so he ended up buying a wine store!  We had both white and red wines and discussed the preparation of the wines with him.

Daniel and Wolfgang took us to a restaurant where they did the ordering for us.  We had Viennese specialties – wonderful!

After lunch we went to Naschmarkt where Patrick introduced us to wonderful chocolate at Zotter.  I could not believe the incredible variety.  The picture shows only about 1/3 of them. We tasted two kinds and some kids kept coming to sample too! And of course, we bought some too.

Then we regretfully had to say goodbye to Wolfgang and Patrick.  Later they sent us an email with all kinds of information since we will be coming back to Vienna when we are on the riverboat.

We chose another concert with Vivaldi, Mozart, Beethoven and Strauss selections at Palais Schonborn.  The same soprano singer from the night before was part of this concert too.  The orchestra was smaller but equally wonderful. Again, no pictures during the performance were allowed.

Wolfgang recommended a restaurant called Zum Schwarzen Kameel – The Black Camel, so we went there for dinner after the concert.  We sat outside and had a great evening.

A few other pictures from this beautiful city.

The next stop on our trip is Budapest.  We will take the train there – about a 2 hour trip.

Stay tuned!

Posted in Europe, Europe trip and river cruise, Food, October | 2 Comments

Prague

October 23-27, 2019

As I posted previously, Norm accompanied me to Prague where I attended the ICF Converge 19, the International Coach Federation conference.

It was a terrific couple of days with reconnecting, learning and celebrating. Here are some pictures from the conference including the Circle of Distinction Awards dinner.

JF, our ICF Board Chair and Magda Mook, ICF CEO present the award.

Here are a few other pictures from the dinner and the conference.

We did get to see Vysehrad on Wednesday before the conference started. This is the site of a fortified settlement in the 10th century and has served as the Royal residence during the 11th century. Much was destroyed but then rebuilt in the 19th century. The cemetery is the resting place of over 600 personalities from the fields of culture and intellectual endeavor.

Vysehrad National Cultural Monument- the grounds are spectacular.
Church of St. Peter and St. Paul
Tabor Gate
A snack and a beer!

After a very full several days in sessions while Norm was out on his own, we had time to do some sightseeing together. Here are some of the extraordinary sights in Prague, a very beautiful city. it was out second trip here so some things were familiar. Hilary and Tracy toured with us.

From our lunch spot!
On the Charles Bridge
The pieces constantly turned showing a different image every second!
The magnificent astrological clock
These are amazing. They fill them with ice cream!
Palace view from our riverside restaurant, Marina. It is on a boat in the river and was simply delicious. Thanks, Alla and Hilary for the suggestion. We enjoyed spending the last Prague evening with Hilary.

Had a great several days in Prague. Next, train to Vienna where we spent 2 days. Will write about that tomorrow.

Posted in World Cruise 3 | 1 Comment

Headed to Prague tomorrow!

I am excited to be leaving for 2019 International Coach Federation ( ICF) Converge tomorrow (my professional organization) – for the content, the networking and this year, for my induction into the ICF Circle of Distinction.  Here is the information about this honor – I am very humbled by this honor!

ICF Circle of Distinction

After the conference, Norm and I will spend 2 days in Vienna and 2 days in Budapest before boarding the Emily Bronte riverboat for a 2 week river cruise from Budapest to Cologne.

Here is the route we will take.  Watch for my blog posts!

emily bronte map

Posted in World Cruise 3 | 12 Comments

At Sea, last day of the 2019 ATW cruise

July 4, 2019

When we meet people in the ports they always ask where our cruise is going – and when we say around the world, they are almost always shocked at that answer.

It is hard to believe we are completing our third ATW and each one seems to go faster.

So here we are on the last day.  More of the ATW passengers are staying on until Miami or now beyond with the special deals that were offered, so those of us disembarking in NY are in the minority which should make for an easy departure.

So, last night we had the cocktail party with the officers, the gala dinner and then a party in Horizons with the crew.  Norm didn’t make the late night party – but I had a great time. Everyone danced until late at night

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These four guests were congratulated for their contributions  of pictures, etc., on social media.IMG_5648IMG_5649

More cocktail party fun with Charlie, Vic and Stephanie.

IMG_5640Here is the menu for the dinner.  Mario went all out!

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Some of my friends in Horizons late night.

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Today there was a July 4 barbecue on deck from 11:30 – 4 and a huge and delicious cake in the Terrace Café.

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Here’s the map of our journey and the crew of the wonderful Insignia.

2019 ATW map

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Can’t wait till next time.

Posted in At Sea, Food, July, World Cruise 3 | 9 Comments