Langkawi, Malaysia

May 12, 2023

We have moved from Indonesia to Malaysia in one day! For Sabang Indonesia they required that all passengers and crew have our temperatures taken the day before arrival. Malaysia had no such requirement. Oceania set up the face recognition/temperature device at the entrances to all of the dining venues so they just scanned everyone as we went for a meal. Sometimes they did it at another meal too (just to be sure, I guess). People have asked about the health of those on the ship. As far as we know, there are no pasxengers with Covid and therefore no restrictions. Some people have lingering colds and they are usually pretty good about taking care not to cough on anyone. Some wear masks. Overall, the cruise is pretty normal.

We were scheduled to dock, but that was changed to anchor with tender service to the pier. Arrival was scheduled for 10 AM but we anchored early. By the time the officials “cleared” the ship for people to get off, we were ready to go for our tour at 10:45.

The sail in pictures were quite beautiful. The islands are very green and lush.

The lifeboat used as a tender is ready to go

Langkawi is a duty free island and an archipelago of 99 islands but only 3 are inhabited. There are also five small islands visible only at low tide in the strait of Malacca. Langkawi is the second largest island and has a population of 220,000. The people are Malay, Chinese and Indian and the Muslim religion is the most prominant. The chief sources of income are rice, rubber and fishing.

Our guide today was Jerry. He mentioned that the dry season is usually January – March but this year it is lasting through May which does impact the rice farms.

Our first stop was a rice farm and museum, the Laman Padi Langkawi Museum. It was really interesting to see the museum (and thankfully it was air conditioned – another steamy hot day here). There were exhibits that showed the entire process of growing rice and preparing it for use.

This guide showed us through the museum
The plows they used to use and in some places they still do
Baskets for collecting rice. Wouldn’t mind having several of these!
Sifting and pounding the rice
Baskets for catching fish in the rice fields

After visiting the indoor museum we were guided around the actual rice fields and had explanations from various staff members.

Manual grinding of the rice
Scarecrows are used in the rice fields
Transplanting rice. Transplantation takes place after the first month

The original method of growing rice takes 4 1/2 months and the newer method in which the seeding and harvesting are mechanized takes 3/1/2 months. The mechanization is more frequent because the younger generation doesn’t want to do the manual work. Two crops are grown each year.

We also saw how they open coconuts, the difference between the male and female coconuts (male is more elongated) and got to taste some shaved coconuts.

Coconut juice is used on the skin and for making oil. One of our group got to try it first hand!
Water buffalos and cows are often found in the watery rice fields. And people fish in the rice fields too.

After our trip to the rice farm, we headed to the cable car. The cable car goes to a mountain that is 708 meters (about 2300 feet) high. Each car holds 6 people.

There was a dancing fountain and many other attractions at the sky cab park. These kids loved the fountain.

The views were outstanding!
The famous sky bridge

There are two stops for the cable car – we were told to go to the top stop where there are two 360 degree viewpoint observation towers. The mountains are called Machinchang and are made of sandstone layers that are the oldest in Southeast Asia, 550-500 million years old. The prolonged erosion processs produced the sharp peaks and valleys.

More beautiful views.

There’s our ship – the Oceania Insignia

I wanted to walk to the sky bridge – it is many steps through a nature walk in the Machinchang Cambrian Geoforest Park. Norm chose to skip that part due to the many steps. I had a hot walk and did walk across the sky bridge and back. You can also take a “glide” but we didn’t know what that was exactly until we saw it, it was a kind of hut on a track that let you avoid the steps that led to the bridge.

On the bridge
We saw monkeys on the ride here but none while I was in the forest
This is the middle station
At the middle station

Back at the bottom, I wanted to have an ice cream but we had no Malaysian Ringgit. I asked the server if they would take a credit card and she said yes, but when she handed me the cone she said they didn’t take credit cards – she must not have heard or perhaps not understood what I asked. After a discussion about what to do, the manager just said the cone was free!

It was a hot but very interesting day. We heard from Jerry that Langkawi is an up and coming tourist resort area due to the proximity to Thailand where things are much more expensive. We saw many resorts and “homestay” accommodations as we traveled around the island.

These time changes we have as we travel can be confusing. We finally moved clocks ahead the extra 30 minutes when we left India. Then we moved an hour ahead last night, we will go back an hour tonight (before Thailand) and when we leave Phuket, Thailand on Sunday, we will move forward again when we re-enter Malaysia.

Posted in Asia, Excursions, Food, May, World Cruise #4 | 1 Comment

Sabang, Indonesia

May 11, 2023

Dodging the cyclone.. we left Port Blair early to avoid the storm. The captain did a great job of sailing north then turning to the east before heading back south. It was a bit of a bumpy ride (didn’t affect us at all) but we felt very little effect of the storm which remains a threat to India, Pakistan and Bangladesh.

This is our first port in Indonesia on this trip and a first for us to this location. Sabang is a city in Aceh province, Indonesia which consists of Weh Island and several smaller islands off the northern tip of Sumatra. It was added to our itinerary when Myanmar was removed. It has the smallest population of any city in Indonesia.

We saw that most of the ship sponsored tours were walking tours so we knew that we could also walk from the port. But it was close to 90 degrees and very humid, so when we got off the ship we spoke to a woman who would take us around for a reasonable price. I admit, I was partial to doing business with a woman. Her name was Rose, and her husband Yoko was our driver. She is a government worker who apparently took the day off to be a guide. Her English was pretty good.

Our ship was originally scheduled to stay here until 7 PM but that got changed to 4 PM. So one of the things we thought we could see was the Zero Km monument which is the starting point for Indonesia. Kind of like the Key West of Indonesia. Here is a photo of it. We didn’t go because it would have taken too long.

This is a beautiful, clean island with very friendly people. Everywhere we went, people smiled and waved. We stopped to see many beautiful landscapes and beaches.

We stopped at a resort that Rose said is very popular with tourists. We saw several people from our cruise there! The deluxe beach front accomodation is 475,000 Indonesian Rupiah which is about $32/day US.

Mui, Erin, Younga and Dave on the beach at the resort

The main religion here is Islam and Rose and Yoko are Muslims. There are also Buddhists and Christians here and the people live in harmony and have respect for all religions. We saw a lot of mosques but did not visit any.

Sabang is also famous by the nickname of the island of a thousand fortresses with many assets and historical relics in the Japanese and Colonial times that are still left. The Japanese occupied the island in 1942 and installed many bunkers, fortifications and gun emplacements. On April 19, 1944, the Japanese facilities were attacked by a combined Allied naval force. Sabang became a free port under Indonesia in 1963 and gained city status in 1965. It was declared a free trade zone in 2000 and saw a rapid growth in shipping and trade.

We stopped for Indonesian coffee and Yoko bought us a kind of rice cake called pulut which was delicious dipped in the strong coffee.

The view from here was also stunning.

The large lake is beautiful but Rose said that no one swims there because it is very deep! The town’s water all comes from this lake.

I think this duck boat has seen better days!

We saw many cows, goats and a few monkeys during our drive around the island. They are often right in the road.

We mentioned to Rose that we wanted to buy bananas. She stopped at one market and we got out, but she didn’t like the bananas there so we went to another market. There, this vendor wanted to sell me all of the bunches of bananas for $5. We settled on just one bunch. Norm said they are different from our bananas at home but very good.

These are the tuk tuks here. We were glad we didn’t take one because the hills here are pretty steep and these vehicles have trouble with them sometimes.
Clearly it didn’t deter Bill and Bob.

We were intrigued by the living fences here. Rose didn’t quite understand that I was asking for the name of the tree. These living fences were seen throughout our drive. I am not sure if they are planted as young trees of if they are somehow harvested and replanted to form the fences. Either way it is interesting and not something I have seen before.

We saw lots of students who seemed to be on a lunch break
Back to our beautiful ship!
A birdhouse we saw in our travels
This group was taking pictures of the ship and wanted one with me too

I got Rose’s contact information in case we come back here or if any of our friends do. We had a great day with Rose and Yoko exploring Sabang.

Posted in Asia, Excursions, Food, May, World Cruise #4 | 2 Comments

Port Blair, India

May 9, 2023

On our sea day yesterday, the boutiques had a fashion show that showcased some of our fellow travelers wearing both the clothing and the jewelry available in the ships. Here is a picture of all of the models.

When Myanmar was taken off of our ATW itinerary, three ports were added along with a second day in Phuket, Thailand. Port Blair was the first of the three. We had never been to Port Blair, in fact, we never even heard of it before. When we saw the map, we realized how far from the rest of India it is. It is a 2 -3 hour flight from mainland India.

The captain told us yesterday that instead of staying in port until 7 PM as scheduled, we would leave at 5 to get ahead of the monsoon weather system headed this way. We will see if we do stay ahead of it!

Our plan today was to find a tuk tuk and have a tour around town and to see the bazaar and the Cellular Jail which seems to be a highlight here.

Port Blair is the capital city of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands in the Bay of Bengal. There are 572 islands in total but only 38 are permanently inhabited.

We took the shuttle bus to the center of town since we thought the tuk tuks there would be less expensive than the ones waiting at the port. We were the only cruise ship to dock here all year so we assumed they would be waiting for tourists. at the port.

The immigration procedure here was less tedious than in the rest of India. We received copies of our passport page, India visa, a customs form where we were asked to list video equipment and how much money in US dollars and other currency we were bringing and a landing card which they stamped and then checked at entry and which we gave back to them at exit.

We weere greeted by some beautiful women, showered with flower blossoms and had a bindi put on our forehead.

The Gandhi statue is a highlight in the town center.

We visited the Aberdeen Bazaar which wasn’t too much different from all of the markets we have seen in India, but there were very few tourists there. We did see this cow!

Apparently they love their garlic here!
We thought these cabs looked vintage! We didn’t actually see any like this driving around

We hired a tuk tuk and went to the Cellular Jail. It is quite hot here even so early in the morning but there was a nice breeze in the tuk tuk. The driver was not allowed to park, so he gave us his phone number and asked us to call when we were finished touring.

The design of the jail was based on separate confinement, which ensured that the prisoners had no form of contact with others except the officers. Originally the jail had 7 wings which got damaged by the earthquake in 1941 and now there are only 3 wings.

The Cellular Jail was created over 10 years, from 1896 to 1906 and is said to be the most formidable colonial prison that ever existed in India. Once built and used by the British to exile political prisoners, it is now an important tourist destination for many as it serves as a historical reminder for one of the darkest chapters in the Indian freedom struggle.

The sole idea behind its construction was to use it as a place of exclusion and isolation where prisoners would be subjected to harsh treatments in a single cell prison room.

Since it was located in one of the most secluded and inaccessible parts of the country, escaping from this jail was nearly impossible. Hence, the name “Kala Paani” was given to it, which roughly translates to “death water”.

Two places with eternal flames are in the courtyard
A model of the original design, a three story structure with 7 wings
One of the cells
Bridge from one ward to another
The gallows

In spite of how grim the history of this place is, the surroundings are quite beautiful.

One of the officials called our tuk tuk driver for us, and when he arrived we asked him to take us to a place for Norm to get a haircut.

By now we were pretty hot and tired, so we asked the driver to take us back to the ship.

Tuk tuk, man and cow competition

Tomorrow we. have another sea day on our way to Sabang, Indonesia, another one of the new ports and also new for us.

Posted in Asia, Excursions, May, World Cruise #4 | 2 Comments

Colombo, Sri Lanka

May 5 and 6, 2023

I have a post from May 4 in Cochin, India but for some reason it is frozen on my iPad and will not load.  I am in contact with the “happiness engineers” at Word Press so I hope to save it but if not, I will have to compose it again.  So I am doing this one on the laptop and Cochin will have to come later.

We were in Sri Lanka in 2015 but not since then.  We are scheduled to be here for two days and decided to stay in Colombo because a lot of the attractions are a 2 hour drive to get to and we didn’t want to do that after so many full days of touring.

As we pulled into port, we could see that it was a very busy commercial port. And although our  material on the ship said you could not walk in the port, there was one entrance/exit that we could walk to.

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We were advised before we boarded that we would need an immigration form that we could fill in online ($50 fee). So we did that and printed it out but NO ONE asked for it at all.  I wonder if all guests even did it.  The ship reimbursed us for the fee.

We found a taxi at the port and went to the One Galle Face Mall.  Our driver was Silva and he was eager to give me his phone number and encouraged us to call him the next day to have him take us on tour.

So today our mission was to shop for an Indian outfit – the type I have admired when others wear them.

We found a shop and I tried on many of the cotton tunics with pants.  None looked right, Norm thought they all looked like pajamas.  So we went to another store where I found a more formal outfit. 

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We then went to another shop that caught Norm’s eye and it was a great experience. The two women had me as the only customer most of the time and quickly determined what I would like and would not like.  I could have bought half of the dresses in the store but I settled for 5! All were very reasonable in price.  As I wear them, I will post some pictures.

Of course, they are known for cashews here so we bought some of the sugar coated ones.  Yum!

We took a tuk tuk back to the ship and relaxed the rest of the day. At night, there was a deck party for Cinco de Mayo.  Norm opted out but I went, had a margarita and danced all night long.

On Saturday, we decided to just hire a tuk tuk for the day instead of calling Silva (although he had a nice air conditioned Toyota!)

We hired a driver named Chandrasivi but he said to call him Chandra.  The tuk tuk is a unique vehicle with one tire in the front and two in the back.  The driver sits in the front and the seat for passengers holds two comfortably and perhaps three in a squeeze.

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We settled on a price for a one hour tour but we ended up going for more than 3 hours.  We visited two Buddhist temples and in our travels around town we saw all of the decorations for the Buddhist celebration taking place yesterday and today – the Vesak Full Moon Poya Day and day after Full Moon Poya Day. These are local holidays here and we weren’t sure what might be open. The mall yesterday was no problem.  Most stores were open and it was a very large and modern mall.  One of our fellow passengers tried to go to the jewelry exchange in the World Trade Center building, but that was closed.

Here are some pictures from the two temples.  The Gangaramaya temple is one of the most important temples in Colombo and is an eclectic mix of Sri Lankan, Thai, Indian and Chinese architecture.  It is a huge  complex with many statues of Buddha.  There is a relic that is said to be hair of the Buddha.  The attached museum has so many artifacts that you couldn’t even take it all in. 

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The other temple was constructed over the water and was quite simple and beautiful.

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We visited the Independence Hall.  Norm stayed in the vehicle and was entertained by the monkey and the man with the cobras. In another spot a young woman and her father who approached him so she could practice her English.

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We went to a gem gallery which had very beautiful stones and jewelry. We didn’t buy any but it was nice to look.  They mine sapphires, rubies and emeralds here but not diamonds.

Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon) is well known for tea and spices.  We went to a tea factory retail outlet where we tried several types of Sri Lankan tea that you can only buy here and we bought two kinds. The young man serving us and explaining all about the tea was both informative and handsome!

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We stopped at a Hindu temple but we had already seen so many in India, we didn’t go inside.

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This is the Lotus Tower.

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We wanted to get back to the ship for the afternoon tea (which we usually never go to) but today it was a special Coronation tea with the big screen airing the Coronation.  We did make it back but not before the tuk tuk broke down and Chandra had to call a friend to bring another one so he could take us back to the ship.

Coronation tea pictures.

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We had two very different but very nice days in Sri Lanka.  It was hot weather but there was a nice breeze in many places. We now have two days at sea and it will be a nice rest!

Posted in Asia, Excursions, May, World Cruise #4 | 1 Comment

Cochin, India

May 4, 2023

Before I write about Cochin, I remembered a story we heard from our guide in Mumbai. Hindus believe in reincarnation and also in the prophesies that they are given when they have their “fortunes” told. It can be good news or bad news and in her example, if a woman is told that she will have two marriages, no one wants to marry her because they know it will end in separation or death for them because there will be a second husband. So, what they do is they perform a marriage to a dog or to a monkey, and then she is free to take a “second” husband!

We have been to Cochin 3 times before (again, search it on the blog site if you want to read previous posts). Some of what we did today was a repeat but always something new to learn.

Here are some shots of our sail in.

The Chinese fishing net

Our guide was Gopah and we were on a tour arranged by Erin and Mui. Today it was just the 4 of us in a very comfortable and thankfully air conditioned van. As I mentioned it is getting close to monsoon season here and it is very hot and humid. Gopah said there is only one more cruise ship that will come here before the 6 month monsoon season when no ships come.

Gopah

We drove to Fort Kochi (Kochi was the official name until 1996) and many still refer to it that way. It is in the state of Karala. There is not a fort here anymore but the entire area is still known as Fort Kochi. Literacy here is almost 100% and most people speak English but there are many local languages as well. Children learn English in school. Gopah told us that there is a labor shortage here and that people come from other parts of India to work and that wages are higher here. People from here don’t want to do the hard labor jobs and move to where they can do other work.

36 million people live in the state of Kerala. Although India is 80% Hindu, here there are 50% Hindu, 30% Muslim and 20% Christian. There is religious harmony.

Kochi was called the “Queen of the Arabian Sea” and was an important spice trading center on the west coast of India from the 14th century onward and it maintained a trade network with Arab merchants. Spices are still a very important product. Later the Portuguese, Dutch and British had a large influence here and the architecture shows those styles.

As we drove over the bridge, we saw a huge amount of traffic heading the other way. This was the best picture of the bedlam that I could get.

When we arrived in Fort Kochi, we started a walking tour and headed to St. Francis Church, where we had visited before. The previous tomb of Vasco da Gama is here. His body was moved to Lisbon but they preserve the former site here, where he died. The church was the first European church in India.

These white things are fans that were previously operated by ropes pulled by people outside the windows. They are now operated by electricity

As we walked through the area, we saw some beautiful flowering trees, including the interesting cannonball tree that we saw in Soans Farm.

We visited the area of the Chinese fishing nets. Tourists are often invited to pull the nets, but we have done that in the past and declined this time. It is quite an operation and goes on all day. These stones are used as counterweights to lift the nets.

Many people sell the fish and other seafood here.

Talk about a giant prawn!
Too hot even for the dogs

Here are some of the other sights we saw in our walk through this area.

They do have bike rentals here, the fee is about 75 cents per hour.
Lots of beautiful murals
The former home of Vasco da Gama. Now a homestay

We thought we would not be able to visit the Basilica but it was going to open at 10:30 so we waited the 10 minutes and went in for a visit.

This is a small shrine dedicated to Our Lady of Fatima

All kinds of homeopathic and regular medicines are easily available here.

We walked to the Dhobi Khana, the local laundry which the Dutch brought to the area to wash the army’s uniforms. Each family has its own area. This woman is 87 and has been ironing here for 70 years.

She let Norm do some ironing.
The irons use charcoal to heat and are very heavy

They work very hard in the laundry.

Our next stop was at the Mattancherry Dutch Palace. Despite the name, it was built by the Portuguese Empire as a gift to the Kingdom of Kochi. There are beautiful handpainted murals but we were not allowed to take pictures. The ceilings are made of teak wood and we could take photos of those.

The windows are situated in a way that provides a nice breeze
Women didn’t wear saris back then, this was the typical dress back in early centuries

We visited the Paradesi Synagogue. The area where the synagogue is located is called “Jew Town” but only two Jewish people live there now. We visited this area before and in 2019 we were told there were 6 Jewish people. One that we saw who was 97 at the time, was Sarah Cohen, who owned and operated an embroidery store. She has sinse passed away. Thanks to our friend Tom for this photo from our tour in 2019.

We were tired and hot and Gopah gave us a choice of a restaurant outside by the river or one with air conditioning. Guess which we chose? It was still by the river but inside.

There was a special exhibit of elephants in the lobby. Each was so interesting!

And they had those fans!

On the way back to the port we stopped to see the brightly painted and themed trucks. You can tell the owner’s religion of interests from the decorations.

An interesting day and it let us see how much things had changed – or not- from our previous visits. Tomorrow we head to Sri Lanka for two days.

Posted in Asia, Excursions, Food, May, World Cruise #4 | 1 Comment

Mangalore, India

May 3, 2023

This is our third visit to Mangalore. It is the home of our butler, Vishant, who ends his time with us and goes home on vacation. He introduced us to our new butler, Reice, before he left.

We are again on a private tour with Erin, Mui, Sonia and Boris, and again in a nice large air conditioned van.

Mangalore is a major port city on the west coast of India. It handles 75 percent of the country’s coffee and cashew exports. It is one of the fastest developing cities in India and houses some of the tallest buildings in South India. They get heavy monsoon rains in the June – September season.

Here is a picture of our arrival. We are often greeted by local people and this was no exception. The drummers were very active even in the heat.

We drove for over an hour out to Karkala and Moodabidri. We have a lot of admiration for all of our Indian drivers because it is often like bedlam on the roads. They drive on the opposite side of the road and it seems that cars, trucks, tuktuks and motor bikes are coming from all directions. And they drive fast. There is a lot of road construction going on all over the country but it seemed a lot more here.

Our guide for the entire tour

Between the 14th and 16th centuries, this area became a great center of learning and pilgrimage for members of the ancient Jain faith. In Karkala, the giant statue of Gomateshwara attracts Jain pilgrims from far and wide. It is on top of a hill and provides panoramic views of the countryside. The statue is the second tallest in India and is 42 feet high. It was carved from one solid piece of stone and taken by elephants up on the hill. It was placed there in the 14th century.

This area of Mangalore is known for its pineapples and other tropical fruits. We bought mangoes in every port so far and they are delicious.We visited Soans farm, a working farm with a bamboo grove. They greated us with fresh pineapple juice and then we were taken on a walk through the farm. The farm was started by Swiss and German missionaries in 1926 as a pilot project to bring under useful cultivation, hilly areas dependent only on seasonal monsoon rains for irrigation. It has now developed into a large center of innovative horticulture, growing over 30 different fruit crops like coconut, pineapple, cashews, mango, sapota, vanilla, areca, bread fruit, banana, jack fruit, cocoa and several spices like pepper, nutmet, clove, allspice and cinnamon. Several new crops have also been introduced from other tropical areas of the world. These are rambutan, durian, langsat, macadamia nuts, mangosteen, dragon fruit, abiu and jaboticaba. Many species of bamboo from around the world and medicinal herbs are also grown here.

Here are some of the varieties we saw and heard about from our guide, the niece of the owners. One of the owners we met introduced her as the “future”! I am including some of the unusual ones. We saw so many different things.

Our guide on the farm
Cashews being dried
And cashew from the tree
Jack fruit – used for many sweet and savory dishes here
Norm examining the bamboo

There were some beautiful flowers too.

This flower is from the cannonball tree. It is both beautiful and very fragrant.

It is impossible to add all of the pictures and descriptions – there was so much to see and learn. Sonia did manage to buy some mangoes -right from the farm – they must be the best. She gave me two to try. Will report on that after I eat them.

Pineapples from the farm

After our visit to the farm, we went to Moodabidri and visited the Jain temple dedicated to Chandranatha. It is the famous 1000-pillared Jain temple. It is richly carved and no two pillars are exactly alike. It is the largest Jain temple in coastal Karanataka.

Floor tiles

Followers of the Jain religion do not worship gods. They believe in 24 teachers. This is a replica of one of the teachers.

Our last stop was a local bazaar at Moodabidri where local people come to buy their fruits, vegetables andother products. The green beans were the largest we have ever seen!

Yes, they have many bananas
This friendly cow walked between us and our van. We see cows and goats everywhere, even in traffic

We had a short day in port and a long drive, so we were told to bring some food with us as there would be no time to stop for lunch. It was again, an adventure in another side of India that we had not experienced on our previous visits. There are lots of rolling hills, coconut trees and farms in this area.

Tomorrow we will be in Cochin, another port we have visited several times. More to learn and experience.

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Goa, India

May 2, 2023

Goa is a state on the southwestern coast of India.It is India’s smallest state and has the highest GDP per capita among all the Indian states, two and a half times has high as the country as a whole. The India National Commission on Population ranked it as having the best quality of life in India. This is our 4th visit to Goa but the tour will be new.

Here are some pictures of our arrival.

They handed each a rose. Of course, I left it in the van at the end of the day

Our tour guide was Stanley. He wasn’t the most organized tour guide we had but he tried hard. Our tour was The Grand Old Houses of Goa. We traveled in a nice air conditioned vehicle to the south of Goa. We were early for our first of two tours, so we stopped and walked around some of the old houses that date back to the Portuguese. Goa was ruled by the Portuguese for 450 years and the influence is still here. The main businesses here now are mining and tourism. The landscape is totally different from Mumbai. There is lots of green space and large homes.

We saw the owner of this house and he gave us permission to go up the stairs

Our first actual house visit was the Today’s Grand Old Houses of Goa tour first took us to the Braganza House in Chandor. It is from the Portuguese era and is approximately 450 years old. We had a tour by a young man who represents the 15th generation living in this house.

The chandeliers are crystal from Belgium
The furniture was mostly. hand carved and is all original

We were asked not to take too many pictures of individual items as the family still lives in the home. This is for security reasons.

Is this a gyn chair?
Or just for relaxing?

Our next stop was at the Palacio de Deao in Quepem. It is approximately 213 years old. The owner took us on.a tour but not in the private area of the home. After touring the house we had a lovely and tasty lunch overlooking the river. His wife cooked all of the food and we had a mangosteen drink that he makes himself.

This was originally the home of a priest and this was the chapel.
Glass was too expensive and too hard to get, so they used oyster shells in the shutters

A very hot day again. Monsoon season is from June – October each year and they do depend on that rain for their crops. No rain in sight during our time here. The no goodness for air conditioned vehicles, these homes had none.

Tomorrow we will tour Mangalore. This will be our third trip there and we will visit new places with the same group. We are all buying mangoes in these ports as they are in season and delicious. We might need to have a contest to see which ones we like best.

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Mumbai, Day 2

May 1, 2023

Mumbai is also known as Bombay which was its official name until 1995. It is in the center of the Mumbai Metropolitan Region, the sixth most populous metropolitan area in the world. It is actually made up of seven islands. During the 18th century, Mumbai was reshaped by a project that undertook reclamation of the area between the seven islands from the sea. It was completed in 1845 which transformed Mumbai into a major seaport on the Arabian Sea. Now Mumbai is one of the world’s top ten centers of commerce in terms of global financial flow.

We had our guide from yesterday and we really enjoyed her knowledge and her support of women. The agency she works for employs only women unless there is an area that they cannot get female guides.

We started our day with a visit to Hindu neighborhoods. We saw many shopkeepers setting up for the day. Hindus do not try to recruit people into the religion. You must be born a Hindu.

In each of the Hindu temples, we saw people preparing the day’s offerings. There is no formal service or leader in the temples. Each person does their own form of honoring the gods.

Here is what one of the areas of offering looks like. It would change every day
You must remove your shoes when going into the temples
In Hinduism and Buddhism, the right facing symbol is called swastika, symbolizing sun, prosperity and good luck. It was appropriated as the left facing symbol of Nazi antisemitism.
Families set up their own offering areas around the water

The water is considered to be a substitute for the holy river Ganges. Each area here has its own crematorium. For those who can afford it, electricity is used for the cremation. If not, traditional wood fire is used.

Here are some other pictures of this area. They have their own outdoor laundry. In an ingenius move, they hang the clothes using intertwined ropes so no clothespins are necessary!

In a contrast between the levels of society here, this 27 story building is owned by the richest man in India. 5 people live there. They have a staff of 600 servants who do not live there. The first 6 floors are the garage for the owner’s 140 cars. There are 5 elevators. One is just for the man… even his wife cannot ride in it. There are 3 swimming pools. One for the husband and wife, one for the 3 kids and one for guests.

In contrast, most of the apartment buildings have put cages around their balconies just to have extra storage.

This statue honors the famous dabbawallas who have delivered lunches by train and bicycle since the 1800s. Between 175,000 and 200,000 lunch boxes are moved each day by 4,500 to 5,000 dabbawalas and it is estimated that there is only one mistake in 6 million deliveries.

The second part of our day was a visit to the spice market. What an experience! There was every type of spice that you can imagine. Every home has its own recipe for curry and other spices, so people buy the whole spices and have them ground here. Many women were waiting with their bags of spices to be made into their own unique blend.

This is the betel leaf which is supposed to be a stimulant, an antiseptic and a breath freshener, It is widely used here in the treatment of cough, asthma, headache and arthritic joint pain. The betel nut is chewed by people here and it dyes their mouths red. It was thought to be an aphrodesiac.
This woman is picking the stems off of the chilis

We visited a Hari Krishna temple that we explored on a previous trip. That time we had lunch in the restaurant. Hari Krishna is a Hindu sect that tries to raise consciousness and worships the god Krishna. It does try to recruit followers and was successful due to the founder who was an Indian actor, producer and politician. It became popular in the US during the 70’s when the hippies first embraced it.

After touring all day – and it was quite hot – we were ready for a late lunch at Kala Ghoda Cafe. The apricot iced tea was excellent. I had a wonderful roasted vegetable and hummus sandwich and we shared this mango tart for dessert. As the sign indicates, no one could have alcohol!

Our guide needed to be paid in rupees so we had to find a money changer since the ATM we tried yesterday didn’t work. One rupee is about $.82 US so we got a stack of money!

What a wonderful and educational two days in Mumbai. On to Goa tomorrow.

G20 will be here in September – signs are everywhere.

Posted in Asia, Excursions, Food, May, World Cruise #4 | 2 Comments

Mumbai, India – Day 1

April 30, 2023

Before I write about our two days in Mumbai, here are some pictures from the Captain’s cocktail party. We have one during each segment of the world cruise, and we missed the last one because we were on our trip to Botswana.

We have the captain from the beginning of the cruise back on board. And we have a new cruise director, Dottie.

Dottie
Captain Maroje Brajcic

And here is Laura, one of our singers on board entertaining us at the party, and Iliya, one of our dancers showing his stuff in Dubai.

After the cocktail party we had dinner with Marilyn, Charlie, Jeff and Joy.

As we sailed in to Mumbai, there was a rainbow. It was pretty overcast, so it is not a great picture. Still, a nice welcome.They had a rain storm overnight and early in the morning.

Here are a couple of shots as we pulled in to port.

We were greeted by beautiful dancers. One placed a bindi on my forehead.

After quite a process with immigration, we met our guide Husseine. We had a very comfortable air conditioned small bus for the 6 of us, Erin, Mui, Sonia, Boris and the two of us.I guess they want everyone to know we are tourists! But I call us travelers in discovery.

It is a holiday today and tomorrow. Today was Sunday and there was not too much traffic on the streets (at least by Mumbai standards)! So we were able to get to our first destination, Dahravi, fairly quickly. We were met by our guide here, Mustafa. He is a college student who uses what he earns to continue his education.

What to know about Dahravi. Dharavi is a suburb in Mumbai, Maharashtra, India. It has often been considered to be one of the world’s largest slums. Dharavi has an area of just over .7 square miles and has a population of over 1,000,000. Mumbai has a population of 22 million people and India just surpassed China as the most populated country in the world. People here consider Dahravi a township and Husseine told us that we would re-visit our idea of a slum when we finished touring this area. People here are kind of ashamed that some of the movie Slumdog Millionaire was filmed here because most of their environment is not as depicted in that movie.

We were not supposed to take pictures of the residents and workers as they did their jobs. There were a few exceptions, so I will share the ones I do have. The amazing thing about Dharavi is that everyone works and nothing is wasted. There is virtually no crime and some of the residents choose to live here even though they are millionaires. We felt safer walking here than in Brazil and West Africa. There are over 20,000 small businesses such as apparel, pottery, embroidery, quality leather goods and plastics and $1 billion dollars is generated here every year. One of the main businesses is recycling, not just from the township but using materials from all over Mumbai. We saw workers separating plastics by color. The plastic is then melted down, washed and made into small pellets, dried on the rooftops and then sold to make recycled items such as combs, bottles, etc. They don’t waste anything here. Appliances like refrigerators are taken apart and the parts used for other things or rebuilt. Skilled workers here earn 12-15 dollars a day and the unskilled workers earn 6-8 dollars per day.

There are 18 mosques, 26 temples and 8 churches in this township and people from all religions live and work peacefully together. This seems to be the case in all of Mumbai according to Husseine.

Workers doing road reconstruction
Some of the many shops here
Many motorbikes everywhere

Conditions are quite primitive and most homes do not have running water or toilets.

While we were there, we saw a man cleaning up trash (they do this twice a day). It turned out that there was a wedding procession coming and we got right in with the group – they wanted us to dance down the street with them and we did!

The wedding venue

What a fascinating look at a thriving community – yet a slum. We did change our view of what it is like to live and work in the slum.

We then drove to an adjacient island, Bandra, where we stopped for lunch at the Salt Water Cafe in an upscale neighborhood. Many of the Bollywood actors eat their meals here. I don’t think any were there when we were. We had some pasta dishes and the special mango ice cream as it is mango season here.

Next we went to St. Mary’s Catholic Church. There are kiosks outside the church with replicas of houses and body parts. If you want to pray for something, you can purchase the replica as an offering.

We visited the fort and walked up for the view of this spectacular bridge and the bay.

Our last visit was to the old Portuguese area of Mumbai. There are very few of the old homes left but we did see the ones that remain. Many have small chapels outside them. Much of the area has been redeveloped into high rise condos and apartments.

This man was selling ice apples. He had to peel off the outer rind and then we got a section with a covering like on an orange. We peeled that off and ate the fruit. Juicy and not too sweet. None of us had ever heard of these before.

Do you think we were tired after our day?

Here are some scenes on the way back to the ship. The waterfront is under a lot of construction, but at night the area (Marine Drive) is very lit up and is called the “Queen’s Necklace”.

This was our 4th visit to Mumbai and we experienced totally different things. You can see how much wealth has come into the city with all of the construction and many high rises. But lots of poverty still exists. Our butler, Vishant, is from India and he says people can live a very good middle class life here on $500/month.

If you want to read about our previous visits, use the search function on the blog site. I am trying not to repeat information I previously wrote about!

Posted in April, Asia, Excursions, Food, World Cruise #4 | 2 Comments

Fujairah, United Arab Emirates

April 27, 2023

We are into the 5th segment of our Around the World cruise, day 103. New passengers came on in Dubai and this segment will end in Singapore on May 18.

Here are some pictures as we left Dubai. It isn’t as colorful as the Hong Kong harbor, but it is still pretty.

Norm took some pictures of the huge aquarium tank in the Dubai Mall. It is hard to see the beautiful sea life because of the blue, but here is one of them. The mall facing area is huge (like everything in that mall). We didn’t go into the actual aquarium.

We sailed into Fujairah for a 9 AM arrival. It is our 4th time here so we planned to take the shuttle into the mall and do some shopping. Here are some pictures of our sail in.

You can see that the landscape is much like the other countries in this area with a city immediately in front of massive rocky areas. It is amazing to see that they have cleared these mountains to create the city areas. Our first visit here was in 2015 and there is much more expansion since then.

Fujairah is the 7th largest city in the UAE and is the only city on the UAE’s east coast. The city has a population of about 97,500. The main mosque is the Sheikh Zayed Mosque which is visible from many locations in the center of the city. It can hold 28,000 worshippers! We visited it in the past.

It is still pretty hot here but was breezy so it didn’t seem as bad as some other days.

We were able to get a Pandora charm at the mall and Norm bought a pair of shoes. Interestingly, in the Dubai Mall he couldn’t find what he was looking for and the shopkeepers told him that he wouldn’t find his size. At this mall, he found a pair in the Under Armour store! The mall is MUCH smaller than the Dubai mall and it didn’t take us long to go through the whole thing. There is Dunkin Donuts and Starbucks as well as many stores that are familiar in the US.

We relaxed in the afternoon and had dinner in Toscana. As we were seaated in the back of the restaurant, we caught the last of the sunset.

We now have 2 sea days before we reach Mumbai, India. We received information about the conditions in India and Sri Lanka and the public/religious holidays that will occur while we will be visiting. In Mumbai, the State Foundation Celebrations will take place and many sites would be closed or extremely crowded if open. We have private tours with friends in all of the ports in India so we will see how it goes. In Colombo, Sri Lanka, the Full Moon Poya Public holiday will take place and it will be two days off for the public so all public offices, schools and most businesses will be closed.

Many of the upcoming ports are not well established for tourism, like the ports in west Africa. English competency varies greatly and there is no formal guiding qualification so most of the guides will be locals that are happy to share their knowledge. Most buses won’t have air conditioning or be very modern and rest rooms are far from our standards. This is what it means to be a traveler, not a tourist!

Posted in April, Middle East, World Cruise #4 | Leave a comment