Yangon, Myanmar

April 30. 2019

Last night in Horizons, Ray, our cruise director, had set up a “surprise” party for Kelly, the dancer on our entertainment team.  Of course, he announced it clearly several times in front of her so it was a great gag, but a real party. He had a monkey cake made in her honor, and we had a fun time late night with drinks, cake and entertainment.

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The Captain’s cocktail party took place tonight and there were lots of traditional outfits to be seen, including the kira that I bought in Bhutan.  Great fun. We also had our picture taken with Michelle, our guest singer who called out our names in a previous show.

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Today, we had a tour organized by Alice Holloway – one of our friends from a previous cruise.  The port in Myanmar is very tricky with the tides – which definitely impacts our arrival and departure times.  So today because of the tides, we didn’t get in until 11:30 instead of our scheduled time of 10 AM.

Our tour guide was Jack and our driver was Saul and they were, as all of our private tour operators have been, great!

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On our way to Yangon  – Formerly Rangoon (which takes about 90 minutes to drive to) – Jack gave us lots of information about Myanmar.  He talked about the Rohingya issue which is mostly affecting the Bangladesh/Myanmar border area and not so much the rest of the country.  60% of the people in the country are farmers and there are 135 different tribes of people living here. All boys must go to the monastery to learn Buddhism and are called novice monks.  They can stay as long as they want to and some stay for life.  They don’t have a choice about going, this is made by their parents, but Jack stayed only a week.  He said it is because they only get 2 meals a day, breakfast, then lunch at 11 and no dinner at all.  Their meals here are from the donations they get from families as they go house to house.  There are 400,000 monks in the country.  More and pictures from the monastery tomorrow.

The roads leading from the port are under repair (by Japan) and the traffic today was really heavy. 

When we reached Yangon, we had a walk through the colonial neighborhood.  Many of the buildings are from the time of the British rule when the country was called Burma.

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We saw the vendors making sugar cane juice and wrapping the betel nut in a leaf spread with limestone paste and tobacco.  The people put it in their cheek and allow it to slowly absorb.  It is causing cancer.  Their lips and teeth are often stained red and there are red splotches on the sidewalks where the people spit.  Not Singapore for sure where spitting is illegal.

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Lots of interesting street food (we didn’t eat any), as well as sim cards for sale, etc..

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Jack showed us their currency.  The largest bill is 10,000 Kyat, which is worth about 6.50 US. The 1000 bill is worth about 66 cents.  Alice asked why they don’t make bigger bills and Jack said everything is inexpensive and they don’t make much money so they don’t need bigger bills.

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The national dress is the longyi which is a skirt worn by both men and women. The men tie it in front and the women on the side or it is custom fitted.  Our friend Rodney wore his all the time after our first visit to Myanmar in 2015.  Here Jack is showing us how to tie it. And how to shorten it for sports activities.

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Each neighborhood has a water station and each town has its own monastery.  Here are a couple of examples of the water stations.


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We visited a synagogue (at 2:15 and the inside closed at 2 so we only saw the outside).  There are 11 Jewish people living here in Yangon, all from the same family.

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Lunch was at the Padomar Restaurant where we enjoyed traditional Myanmar and Thai specialties.

After lunch, we went to the Bogyoke Ang Sun Market (British name is the Scott Market) where there are more than 200 vendors selling wood carvings, tapestries, silk, silver and brass as well as hundreds of kinds of jewelry. We got there 30 minutes before it closed which allowed us a short time to browse, but we didn’t buy anything. IMG_8562

There are lots of apartment buildings here that are about 6 or 8 stories high. There are no elevators so people are using narrow stairways to get to their homes.

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The highlight of the day was the Shwedagon Pagoda. We were here on a previous visit, but it never fails to impress.  It is 2500 years old and is located on a 190 foot hilltop.  It is covered with about 6500 priceless gold plates, rubies, sapphires and other precious gems and a single 76 carat diamond crowns the top.  The entire complex covers 12 acres! The spire soars 326 feet in the air.  Our visit was timed so that we could enjoy both daylight and darkness at the Pagoda.

Shwe means gold, and Dagon is the section of Yangon where the pagoda is located.

Norm was wearing shorts, so he had to put on a longyi.  Your shoulders and legs must  be covered and all shoes and socks must be removed.

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One of the things a visitor must do is find the area of the day of the week in which he or she was born and pour water over the statue that is located there.  Norm and Tom were born on a Tuesday (Lion symbol), Alice on Thursday (rat symbol)  and Wednesday is divided into morning and afternoon.  I was born in the morning so my symbol is the elephant with tusks.  Here are each of us making our wishes and pouring the water.

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You can buy gold leaf to put on the statues and we all did that. Some of the areas need a lot of gold leaf and others are covered beautifully.

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Pictures just cannot do justice to this immense and beautiful place. There are many Buddha images, lots of spires and the main stupa, which is partially covered in bamboo scaffolding due to renovation.

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All of us, except Alice, had to ring the bells. And the little kids love to do that too.

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Here are some of the people (and cat) we saw there.

IMG_8575IMG_8578IMG_8686IMG_8583IMG_8587IMG_8598IMG_8600IMG_8653These women in pink are the Buddhist nuns.  All of the monks and nuns have their heads shaved every 10 days.

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There was even a blood donation place set up inside.

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This place is even more fabulous by night.

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After a terrific and tiring day, we returned to the ship at 9 PM.  We needed showers immediately but went for a quick bite to eat in the Terrace Café which was kept open as the tours had a late start due to delayed arrival in the port, and therefore returned late.  The temperature today was 104 degrees and it was very humid. Luckily Jack and Saul kept us constantly refreshed with very cold bottled water. 

If we were to do this again, we would stay at a hotel for the night, but the roads were not as bad before, or at least we don’t remember that they were.  So the trip to Yangon is a long one.  The first time we were here in 2015 we spent very little time in Yangon but did see the Shwedagon Pagoda.  We then took a trip to Bagan.  And in 2017 when we returned we took an overnight trip to Mandalay so spent no time in Yangon at all.

Time to sleep and then get up to leave at 8:45 for another exploration of Yangon.


Posted in April, Asia, Excursions, Food, World Cruise 3 | 1 Comment

Phuket, Thailand

April 28, 2019

Last night we had a singer in the Insignia lounge show.  Her name is Michelle Montuori and she really reminds me of Bette Midler!  Anyway, towards the end of the show, she was talking about her travels and that she had just returned from a gig on another world cruise.  Then, she asked for the house lights to be raised and said that passengers on that ship asked her to give a shout out to Norm and Pat Epstein!!!  Everyone was looking at us wondering “what?”  She mentioned the name Darryl.  Norm was wracking his brain, and I told him it was Deb and Darryl, a couple from Chambersburg who contacted me about 6 months ago for advice on world cruises and I spent time giving them our thoughts.  Michelle said she promised to take a picture with us.  A surprise for sure.

First I should mention that Phuket has a silent “h”.  So it is pronounced “Poo-ket”.  Of course we knew this but Ray, our new cruise director, made a point of it after the show last night, so people wouldn’t pronounce it wrong and be embarrassed!

Today we had booked a tour that Joyce Moore organized.  We arrived in port at 7 and Joyce was smart to say we should meet in reception so we could get off the ship quickly.  There were 16 of us going on this tour.  We woke up to rain, but the forecast was that it was going to clear up, and sure enough it did!

We traveled by van to the Royal Thai Port.  That trip took about 45 minutes. When we got to the office of the Simba sea company, they had breakfast all ready for us.

We took rain slickers and waterproof bags, but it turned out we didn’t need them at all.  Jane was our guide and there was a boat captain and a mate with us too.

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Our boat was a very powerful motorboat!  And the captain sure revved it up! All of our destinations are in the Phang Nga Bay and it is a very big bay! It is known as one of the more unique and inspiring places on earth. The Bay was made a National Park in 1981.  The area consists of more than 80 absolutely amazing islands. The limestone formations were created when a collision over 300 million years ago between the Indian subcontinent and mainland Asia’s tectonic plates forced the limestone above the water.  The karst formations appear like fairy castles of all shapes and sizes. There is flora hanging off the cliffs, including palm trees, bamboo, ferns and wild orchids.

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Our first stop was Kho Phanak, the mangrove cave.  We were given hard hats and head lamps and Jane led us on our way into this amazing cave.  We reached an open area with many mangrove trees. Jane told us, at one point while we were still in the cave, to all turn off our lights, and it was pitch black in the cave.  She explained how the children who were stuck in the cave in the northern part of Thailand survived for 10 days.  It was partially the water that comes down from the tops of the caves and also the fact that it was so dark and their bodies didn’t need as much food.  Amazing place. We especially got lucky that it was low tide and we were able to wade into the cave.

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It was also interesting to see the walking fish. These fish can both swim in the water and walk on land.

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Next we went to Koh Hong for sea kayaking.  Each of the inflatable kayaks had a man who did all the work so we could concentrate on the scenery.  We went between and under the beautiful rock formations and into caves.

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Our guide in the kayak took the pictures of us through a leaf that had a heart shaped hole in it!  While paddling, he also somehow made this flower out of a brown stalk.

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We returned to the boat for the trip to Koh Phing Kan and Koh Tapu (James Bond Island). This is where the movie “The Man With the Golden Gun” was filmed. 

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We had lunch at a restaurant right on the water.  Delicious and yes, a little spicy.  The waiter said they made it “European Style” – to him, not spicy at all!

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We climbed into these trucks for a short tour of this island, then got back into the powerboat to our next and last destination.

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Jane is showing us the rubber trees that were brought illegally to Thailand, now it is a big industry here.

IMG_8446IMG_8451The floating dock is made of plastic blocks that are 2 foot by 2 foot by 2 foot cubes that interlock. Very ingenious.


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We had a swim stop just across from the island with the restaurant.  There is a huge sand bar here and the sand is as fine as any I have ever seen.  You can see Jane serving us fruit out in the water.  The snacks, drinks, etc., were served to us all day long.

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These designs in the sand are made by crabs which emerge from the small holes and leave these dots of sand.  Just beautiful.  They could be jewelry designs.

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A magnificent day with friends, food, fun and unparalleled beauty.

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Posted in April, Asia, Excursions, Food, World Cruise 3 | 2 Comments

Penang, Malaysia

April 27, 2019

This is our second time in Penang, we came here on our first world cruise in 2015.  This time we decided to explore the city of Georgetown, near the cruise port.  The city’s core is a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2008 and has many elaborate colonial homes and Chinese heritage buildings as well as a lot of temples.

Penang was Britain’s first toehold on the Malay peninsula and Georgetown is the capital. There is an interesting history here.  This area was ruled by the sultans until the late 18th century. Thai and Burmese raiding parties were present and the sultan sought military protection from Francis Light, an adventurer seeking to counter the Dutch presence nearby. It turned out that Light struck a deal with the sultan but the East India Company declined to go along with it. Light convinced the sultan that the deal was being referred to the authorities in London.  The sultan finally caught on to the scam, but failed to evict the British. 

Our guide shared all of this yesterday, and today we see the evidence of no significant development in this city because of the economic effects of this so called deal, many colonial and early Chinese buildings survived to this day.

IMG_8244IMG_8245IMG_8246The Queen Victoria clock tower was presented to the city in 1897 by local millionaire Cheah Chen Eok. It is 60 feet high and commemorates Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee.

We did a lot of walking through the town and enjoyed the sights and sounds, did a bit of shopping and visited the mosque. We had a tour in the mosque by a lovely young woman who shared how they do their prayers and the passage from the Koran that they all memorize.

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The fire department was doing some kind of demonstration on the street.  Fascinating!

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In an effort to brand the Georgetown UNESCO World Heritage Site, the state government opened a contest and the winning idea culminated in a unique series of steel rod caricatures which retells the history of the streets and stories of the communities in a local voice. The work started in 2010 and to date there are 52 steel rod sculptures.  There are also wall murals.  We thought the steel rod ones were so interesting.  Here are a few of them.

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We walked to the Penang Bazaar and browsed the shops.

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Here are a few more signs, and yes, we didn’t see any dogs, but several cats were having their naps.

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Norm kept seeing this sign and wondering where that street was since it seemed to be everywhere, but when I looked it up – we found that it meant “one way street!”

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After a hot morning and a lot of walking, we headed back to the ship.  This lighthouse is right near where the Insignia is docked.  And there is a watering hole there too.

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We enjoyed our day here.  A very clean city.  Lots of cab drivers wanted to give us tours and I think they couldn’t quite understand why we wanted to walk.  Here is another way people get around.

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Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

April 26, 2019

We have been to Malaysia before but never to the city of Kuala Lumpur.

We arrived in port at about 10 AM and that is when our tour started.  There were some local boats in the water near our port.

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Ruben was our guide and he was very informative about Malaysia as well as the city of Kuala Lumpur (Kuala means estuary and Lumpur means muddy).  He told us there are not 4 seasons here but 4 kinds of weather.  Hot, very hot, wet and very wet!  It was hot today and later turned wet!

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Malaysia has a history of being occupied by many countries over the years and got its independence from British rule in 1965.  It was ruled by sultans and there were 9 of them.  They were deciding who would be the king and they decided to rotate the title among the 9 of them with 5 year terms for each. Only one did it twice and he is the only one left, he is in his 80’s. 

This is a constitutional monarchy so the king doesn’t have much power, he does choose the prime minister (there is an election and generally that is who he chooses, but he doesn’t have to), and he also is the chief of the armed forces.

They have very rich oil and gas resources and it is their top source of income.  Gas here is only 50 cents/liter.

The country is primarily Muslim but is considered a secular country.  The population is 32 million.  They can have 4 wives but most men can’t afford to- only if all the wives work. The average skilled worker makes about $500 US/month.

It took us about an hour and a half to travel to Kuala Lumpur from Port Klang where the ship docked. The city of Kuala Lumpur has a population of 2 million.

Since today is Friday, it is a Muslim holy day and the mosque area would be crowded in the morning, we started the tour at the Central Market and Petaling Street, Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown. We enjoyed both but didn’t buy anything there. This vendor was roasting chestnuts.

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Our next stop was to the Petronas twin buildings, the tallest twin buildings in the world. The Art Deco inspired towers rise 1483 feet.  Unfortunately the tours to the top were closed until 3 because of the holy day and everything after 3 was already booked, so we couldn’t go to the top.  It was interesting to see the buildings from the outside, though and there is a double decker sky bridge connecting the two buildings at the 41st and 42nd floors!

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The buildings are attached to the Suria KLCC which is a modern 6 level shopping center.  And it is amazing.  Every high end store you can think of is here, from Gucci to Marks and Spencer and everything in between.  We were with Tom and Alice who joined the ship yesterday and will be with us till Rome.  We loved walking around and had a nice noodle lunch. They even have a gentlemen’s lounge!

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After shopping and lunch, we drove to the National Mosque and the Old Railway Station. At this point we were well into the “wet” part of the day, so most of my photos are from the bus. We weren’t allowed to visit inside the mosque on a Friday anyway.

IMG_8212IMG_8237The mosque was built in 1965 and has a star shaped dome representing the 13 states of Malaysia and the five pillars of Islam.

IMG_8213This is the Old Railway Station. It was built in 1911 with Moorish architecture.

Kuala Lumpur is a big, modern, clean city and has a lot of colonial architecture that is really nice to see.

IMG_8159IMG_8160IMG_8161IMG_8162IMG_8163IMG_8167IMG_8214IMG_8224IMG_8240IMG_8241The last buildings and fountain are at Independence Square.

Here are a few other sights.  Yes, lots of motorbikes here.

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We made it back to the ship after we were supposed to be on board – an advantage of booking a ship sponsored tour – they have to wait for you!

Posted in April, Asia, Excursions, Food, World Cruise 3 | 1 Comment

Singapore, Singapore

April 25, 2019

Singapore, the city that is also a country. It is home to 5.6 million people, 39% are foreign nationals.  There is such a mixture of cultures here and it is one of the safest cities in the world.  It consists of one main island and 62 small islands.

The city ranks highly in numerous international rankings and has been recognized as the world’s smartest city, world’s safest country, second most competitive country, third least corrupt country, third largest foreign exchange market, third largest financial center, third largest oil refining and trading center, fifth most innovative country and the second busiest container port.  The Economist has ranked Singapore as the most expensive city to live in since 2013.

Our immigration card states in red… the fate of drug traffickers here:

Although we heard it is changed to life imprisonment now.IMG_4408

It is a city of contrasts from an old Chinese quarter to Hindu temples to huge skyscrapers.

We have been here several times before and I also spent time here with ICF, so today we decided to revisit the Gardens by the Bay, a huge, colorful futuristic park in the bay area of Singapore.  We were there when it was being built, visited when it was partially completed and now were eager to see what has taken place since our last visit.

We took their amazingly efficient and clean MRT system to the Gardens.  We found out quickly that on April 14 a brand new feature was added – Floral Fantasy. This consists of 4 different garden landscapes, each showcasing a different concept.  In addition, there is a 4 D ride called Flight of the Dragonfly.

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It is simply stunning. 

We moved on to the 2 cooled conservatories – and it felt wonderful since it was very hot out.  The main exhibit right now is Tulipmania in an area designed to look like the Netherlands.

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I will share just some of the hundreds of pictures we took in this amazing place. They even had some plants made out of Legos!

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This one reminded us of Bhutan!

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These gardens are just outside the Marina Bay Sands, here is a shot of that and also the huge wheel.

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They also had a display of these poisonous dart frogs.  Very interesting, hard to find them! The natives used to rub their darts on the frogs to get the poison to kill animals.  The display said the poison in what would amount to one grain of salt can kill a human being.  Glad they were behind glass!

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Posted in April, Asia, Excursions, World Cruise 3 | 1 Comment

Ko Samui, Thailand

April 23, 2019

We have been to Ko Samui twice before (search the name on the blog site if you want to see those experiences and photos).  So today, we decided to just take the tender in to the town (this port requires the ship to be anchored off shore). Ko means island in Thai.

The smaller boat is the one that took us to shore, one of  the others is a ferry the the last one belongs to the Royal Thai Police.

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Ko Samui is located in the Gulf of Thailand and is Thailand’s third largest island.  It is surrounded by about 60 other islands. It is circular in shape and about 9.3 miles across. We came into the port of Nathan which is the true commercial hip of the locals and is small enough to walk everywhere. The island was even without roads until the early 1970s and the journey from one side of the island to the other involved a whole day trek.

Today Samui has a population of about 47,000.  It now has a thriving tourist industry with the main appeal of the rural beach communities and the water sports.

It was quite hot but not as hot as Bangkok which was over 100 degrees.  We walked around the town and did some shopping. One of the women I know on the ship always asks if I bought anything.  If I say no, she asks “Do you have a pulse?!!)  So I did have a pulse and bought shoes, a couple of tops, pants and sarongs.  A good shopping day!IMG_7858

We also visited a temple and were the only people there.  I guess we still haven’t seen enough temples!

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And also still not enough markets, which fascinate us every time.

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Here are some other sights we saw. The bakery with my name! The German bakery.  And the kiosks to fill water bottles.  And Thai food.  Which would be common in Thailand, I guess!  Perhaps the sign is for us visitors.

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The boat has a lot of traps.  And the shop caught our eye because of the statues of the cats.

I really liked this Keep Calm sign.

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The ship has made a transition to this boxed water when you go out on tour.  It tastes OK but has a smell of wet corrugated cardboard which is kind of unpleasant. Norm gave the cruise line feedback about it and got the response that it was a test and will be discontinued. Guess this particular kind is not better.  We do applaud their objective to be environmentally positive and they are going to discontinue plastics, but this box isn’t up to their standards.

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We now have a day at sea before our port of Singapore. We have traveled here together three times and I spent a number of days here on an ICF trip, so we will go out exploring on our own this trip.



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Bangkok, Thailand

April 22, 2019

We flew from Paro, Bhutan to Bangkok yesterday. First of all, it is amazing that neither of us has any soreness at all from our Tiger’s Nest hike!  It must have been the hot stone baths.

Our guide and driver took us to the airport at about 7 AM as they said it is the new rule for international flights that we arrive 3 hours early.  Fine with us. We had booked business class  so the check in line was non existent and we got to wait in their lovely lounge.  They had almost anything you might want to eat there, but we had a good breakfast so didn’t have anything.  Well, except diet Coke which I missed while on this trip. A few hotels had it but not all.

When we checked in, we were given two “fast track” tickets for immigration in Thailand.  We didn’t know the value of these till later.

Here I am heading out to our plane.

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Toward the end of the flight the two passengers in the seat opposite of us went into the cockpit for the landing.  We thought that was unusual, and when we got onto the bus to the terminal in Bangkok, we chatted with them. They are father and daughter and are related by marriage to the king.  They have many US connections including a sibling who attended the Wharton School at the University of Pennsylvania.

The fast track ticket allowed us to go through a special line for immigration and we were the only people there, so  we got through in no time.  Unlike on our trip to Buenos Aires when we waited almost 3 hours.

We did have a wait for the baggage as the planes park pretty far from the terminal and there are lots of flights coming in here.

Our US travel agent, Pam, arranged and paid for our transportation to the ship (Thank you, Pam) and our driver was waiting when we arrived.  Pam also arranged this whole trip through an Indian travel agency and both of them coordinated such a spectacular experience.

We returned to the ship in time to shower and dress for the Around the World special event at the Sampran Riverside. This is a family run cultural destination since 1962.  It took about an hour and a half to get to the site, and we were glad it was Sunday since the traffic wasn’t too bad. 

We were greeted on arrival by musicians, cocktails and were given a welcome garland of fresh flowers.

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As we strolled around the grounds which were decorated with luminarias, we got to see and interact with the local people at the village stalls. There were people walking around with baskets containing locally made potato chips, rice chips, cashews and peanuts. We loved the elephants.

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We were led to dinner by a drum procession by the traditional Angkaloong band and food stalls were set up – many barbecued items, fruits, vegetables and local desserts were served. The foods were typical Thai dishes featuring organic ingredients from the family farm.

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After dinner, there was a Thai cultural show featuring dancing, kick boxing, sword fighting and music. At the end of the show, there were fireworks and a lighting of this special tribute to the Around the World guests.

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Before we left, we got to see the re-enactment of the Loy Krathong Festival which means “to float a  basket”. This is a very Thai tradition, celebrated on the full moon of the twelfth month of the lunar calendar (in November). These special banana trunk leaf and flower arrangements with candles and incense sticks are carried and floated in the river.  The Thais see it as a time to wave goodbye to misfortune, wash away sins of the past year, and make wishes for the coming year.

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Some of us got close enough to the river to float theirs, but we took them back to the hotel with us.

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On both the bus ride to the venue as well as on the way back to the ship, the guides on the buses pointed out places of interest.  There were some beautiful lotus ponds and these light poles are outside of many restaurants and hotels.

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After a very restful night back in our bed, we both decided to have an equally restful day aboard the ship today.  Norm got our 4 bags of laundry ready, we watched the movie VICE, and spent time in the steam room.  The ship has been and still is under GI precautions due to some people with GI symptoms.  We have encountered this on a previous cruise and Oceania does a good job of handling it.  We heard that there is only 1 person still in quarantine but it takes only 1% (about 6 people) to trigger the precautions.  All the outer doors to the rest rooms are left open, the launderette and library are closed, there is plastic over the buttons in the elevator (which we only take when we have luggage with us), the tables in the Terrace cafe are empty until you sit down, then the place mats and cutlery and any condiments you need are brought to you, hand sanitizers are always everywhere but they brought extra to the rooms. Probably this will be cleared up soon, our room attendant, Elena, told us no one in her rooms was affected.

We have been to Bangkok several times before so staying in was good to allow us to catch our breaths after the trip. Here are some of the sights in this city of contrasts.

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Many high rise buildings and also traditional Thai houses can be seen throughout the city.  This is the Chao Phraya River. Our guide told us that the population here is about 12 million people but the immigration numbers are not properly listed so it might be up to 20 million.  It is the 22nd most populated city in the world. There are some amazing sights here, which we have visited before.  The Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha are two that are must see destinations.  Last time we also visited the Royal Barge museum which was very interesting. The Presart Museum and the Jim Thompson house are also interesting places we have visited on previous trips. Previous blog posts would highlight those.

We missed Easter and Passover here but the display in the terrace was still there.

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We have two more cities in Thailand to visit, Ko Samui tomorrow and Phuket on Sunday.

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Paro, Bhutan

April 20, 2019

Well we couldn’t have planned a better last day in Bhutan. We started our day at 7:30 and drove to the base for our hike to Taksang Monastery, commonly known as the Tiger’s Nest. This is one of Bhutan’s best known sites and it the most important temple in the country. It is built on vertical cliffs just outside Paro.  It was first built in 1692. The altitude is 10,240 feet, about 300o feet above the level of Paro.

Both Tashi and Kinley accompanied us on this strenuous hike.  Our fitness trackers said it was 6.7 miles and 153 stories.  The uphill climb is estimated to take 3 hours.  It took us 2 1/2.  Our guides didn’t know until today how old we are, and they said it was quite an accomplishment for people of “our age”.  They thought we were younger. Of course, they are both 32!

The only way to get there is to hike, there is no road and the trail is very rough most of the way.  You can take a horse half way to where there is a cafeteria, there is a separate trail for the horses.  But no horse for us!  The rest of the trail is not accessible for horses. You can’t take the horses down from that area though. Here are Norm and Tashi starting out.

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IMG_7618And here is our goal!

These prayer wheels are made of recycled water bottles.

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Tashi is very good about taking pictures along the way.

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Our guide and driver.  They both made the hike with us!

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The paths through the forest are beautiful and actually serene in spite of other hikers.  There are the beautiful red rhododendrons and this waterfall along the way.  The trees with the “old man’s beards” signify that the air is pure enough for them to grow. There are prayer flags everywhere and the views of the valley and the mountains beyond are simply spectacular.  As we hiked to higher altitudes, the difference in the trees that grow there was also interesting.

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When we got to the top, we were tired but happy.  Again, no pictures in the actual temples but Tashi took us through all of them, explained the beautiful statues and paintings and all of the history of this amazing place.  For us, it was hard to imagine how it was even built back in the 17th century. It is built into the vertical mountain face. It has suffered two fires, one in 1998 when a monk dies trying to save the priceless artifacts here. 20 monks live here now. The monastery buildings consist of four main temples and residential shelters ideally designed by adapting to the rock (granite) ledges, the caves and the rocky terrain.

All the buildings are interconnected through steps and stairways made in rocks. There are a few rickety wooden bridges along the paths and stairways also to cross over. The temple at the highest level has a statue of Buddha and there are other symbolic statues and paintings too. I won’t describe them all here but you probably can get some history on line.  Each building has a balcony, which provides lovely views of the scenic Paro valley down below.

All along the way, we got amazing pictures.

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But, like in all the temples, no cameras were allowed.  Kinley stayed with our things while we toured all of the temples with Tashi, who, as always, provided so much information!

On the way down, we were glad to have our trekking poles! It took about 2 hours to go down.  Norm was feeling it in his thighs, but mine were OK, guess they got strengthened by all of the “squatty potties”, some here, some in China and some in Nepal.

Here we are at the bottom, no worse for wear!

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We went back to Paro for lunch and it was delicious as they have all been. The cabbage dumplings they call momo are outstanding and all of the vegetables great.  Asparagus is in season here and it is served at almost every meal.  They slice it and usually roast or saute it.  Yum.

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Then we went to a farmhouse that provides hot stone baths which Tashi highly recommended after the hike.  Here is the owner explaining the process. Tashi had to book the time because it takes about 5 hours to heat the stones on the wooden fire. The hot stone baths can be found in farmhouses and hotels and are much less expensive in the farmhouses. At this particular hot stone bath, there were several rooms in a wooden shed out in the courtyard. Our room had two wooden tubs, and looked a little bit like open coffins!  Essentially they boil herbs for 12 hours and put them in cold water. They then drop the heated stones into the water and it sizzles as it heats up.  If you want more heat, all you have to do is call out for hot stones and they will drop more into the water which is at the end outside the baths.

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We had a 45 minute soak which was absolutely marvelous. The owner was going to serve us butter tea, but we declined, and headed back to the main street of Paro to do some last minute shopping before heading back to our hotel for dinner and packing.

Here’s our total fitness tracking for the day!

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Our flight to Bangkok where we will rejoin our Around the World cruise, leaves Paro at 10 and we need to be at the airport at 7.  Tashi and Finley will pick us up.  The hotel is just outside the airport.

Norm got this shot of the airport runway.  It should be an exciting take off if it is anything like the landing!

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This whole trip was wonderful in every way!  Hope the posts reflect our joy in being able to experience it.

Posted in April, Asia, Excursions, World Cruise 3 | 5 Comments

Punakha- Paro, Bhutan

April 19, 2019

Last night’s full moon was beautiful as was today’s sunrise in Punakha.  We stayed at the Drubchu Resort, which I wouldn’t particularly recommend.  The gardens were beautiful but the hotel wasn’t the best.

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They did have a safe, but Norm could have carried it out without any problem at all!

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Here are some pictures from our breakfast table window and from around the grounds.  The banana and lime trees were cool.

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When we checked in yesterday, I got a call from the spa to see if I wanted to book anything.  I didn’t because it was already late in the day.  But look at these prices..

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The most expensive is a 90 minute massage for 2350, which is about $34 US.  Wow, on the ship that would be 10 times as much.

We set out on our way to Paro. It is the same road that we took already and it will be about a 4 hour trip.  But first we are stopping at the Royal Botanical Gardens for the Rhododendron Festival.

This is a monastery for nuns high up on the hills.  It is under renovation now, and we didn’t visit, but it looked like it would be interesting.

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More cows in the road.

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We got to the Botanical Garden before the festivities started, Tashi said the sense of time in Bhutan is a bit off! So first we explored the small museum they have here and saw the many school children who were part of the festival as well as some of the families who came to enjoy it.

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This was an interesting exhibit.  When you went in, there was a black curtain and when you pulled it back, you saw yourself in a mirror!  True, that. 

While in the museum, the Director General of the Tourism Council of Bhutan, Dorji Dhradhul, approached us to get feedback about our experience and our guide. We had glowing remarks and got his business card so we can send him an email when we finish the trip. He told us that they are continuously trying to improve although most of their feedback is positive.

On his card, the motto says “Taking Tourism to the Top” and on the back were these 5 items under the topic
“Welcome to Bhutan” 

  • Birthplace of the Gross National Happiness
  • Only carbon-negative economy in the world
  • Young democracy gifted to the people by peerless Kings
  • Mysterious (talking and flying statue, the snowman – yeti)
  • Use of tobacco and plastic in public banned

Tashi said that plastic will be banned entirely very soon.

The Agriculture Minister of Bhutan was the distinguished visitor and he gave his speech in their language and also in English.  Everyone here is very proficient in English. There were ritual dances and performances and we were fascinated by the whole thing. By happy co-coincidence, I sat next to two women from the local village.  The one sitting next to me was educated in France and speaks many languages.  She worked at the World Bank for 3 years.  The other woman was her sister. They were so informative about the customs, the country and we had so much in common in our beliefs.  It was a wonderful part of the day. And it turned out that the woman sitting next to me was the aunt of the leader of the village and a classmate of the Director of Tourism! She had a great sense of humor.  She said that with the men’s national dress, it is a good thing that they need to wear the shawls for rituals because it covers them up.  She said “if they had something to show, it would be all right!” The second photo shows what she means. The white shawls are worn by the men in all fortresses, and for all festivals and rituals.

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They are very proud of this 12th grader who is developing sustainable farming techniques.

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Here are some of the festivities.

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We were ushered into one of the tents when we arrived and so had a very good view of everything. We were served their butter tea (ugh) and some rice.

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We walked to the pond and saw some weaving and other crafts and games on the way – even archery. Sadly, this is the only rhododendron we saw, it is too early for the rest. The women I was talking to want to try to get the festival date moved until all are in bloom. There are 29 different varieties here, and we did see lots of red ones along the road.

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Then we continued on our way to Paro.  This time I did get some shots of the horses.

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We stopped at the pass and got a few more of the Himalayas, I never get tired of looking at those spectacular mountains.

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As we came into Paro, I got some pictures of those roadside signs I posted about before.

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When we passed between Thimphu and Paro going both directions, Tashi had to show our papers to immigration.

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The mountain views in Paro are also beautiful.

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After our lunch in Paro, we went to the museum.  We had to wait a while because they had a power outage.  The actual museum was damaged in the 2011 earthquake and is being renovated, so the contents were moved to a nearby building.  They actually make you put your cameras and phones in a locker here, no photos inside.  It was really interesting, with walls of all the masks used in the dances and lots of information about the birds and animals in Bhutan.

This is the museum that is being renovated – it was the old watchtower.

We continued on to the fortress.  It is smaller than the other two we saw in Thimphu and Punakha but equally impressive. Here’s the admission prices – all of ours are included in the daily charge we paid.

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One of the young monks invited us to light one of the lamps and make our wishes.

We walked back across the bridge in the picture.

IMG_7580IMG_7585IMG_7589The flag of Bhutan.

Our room at the Tashi Namgay.  Very beautiful place.

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Resting up after a great dinner.  Tomorrow we climb to the Tiger’s Nest (Taksang Monastery).

Posted in April, Asia, Excursions, World Cruise 3 | Leave a comment

Thimphu to Punakha, Bhutan

April 18, 2019

The morning started wonderfully since it is our older son, Adam’s birthday!  Well, it is April 18 in Bhutan, but this was a good time to Facetime with him – he was in California –  to wish him the happiest of birthdays.  He is also my web guru and was the one who initially set up my blog, and now my website.  Happy 36th, Adam!

Here is a picture of the sitting Buddha site we visited yesterday.  It shows how it was cut into the mountain and the area still under construction.

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After breakfast, we checked out of our hotel (and look at our view from the hotel this morning)

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and began the 3 hour, 71 kilometer drive to Punakha.  This was the first capital of Bhutan before it was moved to Thimphu.  The road we were taking is the only road to Punakha and was the first road in the country and only built in 1961.  It is a very winding road over the mountain. We saw cows in the road, yaks on the side of the road, and I wish I had been quicker with the camera because about 5 small horses ran right next to my car window.  Maybe I will catch them on the way back tomorrow.

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We reached the Dochula Pass in about 45 minutes.  This is the highest point of the road and definitely closes in the winter.  There was a wonderful view of the Himalayas from this viewpoint.  We were invited in to the small restaurant for tea and a snack.  There are 108 stupas built here in memory of the soldiers who were killed defending Bhutan from invaders in 2003. This was by order of the 4th King w who personally helped to build them.

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After this visit, we continued to Punakha. Tashi told us that the hotel we are staying at has limited beds for guides and asked if we would mind if we stopped there for him to put his bag on a bed so that he would have one for the night.  Interesting.. and OF COURSE we didn’t mind.  In fact, we probably would have paid for a bed!

The hotel is the Drubchuku Resort.  We were not checking in until later but we did get to see the beautiful gardens. This pictures are especially for you, Chris and Sandy!

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As we reached the town, Tashi led us on a hike through the rice and wheat fields.  This is the area of the Chime Lhakhang or the “Temple of Fertility” which we visited after our hike.  On the way, we started to see the many phalluses that are painted on many buildings, and replicas are in most shops.

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This symbol is called the “Magical Thunderbolt” based on Lama Drukpa Kuenley.  He is called the Divine Madman because when he first came to spread Buddhism, he went around the town naked and did a lot of things that made people wonder if he was really a holy man.  The legend says that he subdued a demon with his phallus – the Magical Thunderbolt – chained the demon and turned him into a black dog.  So there is the only black stupa on the grounds of this temple. We are sitting under the Bodhi tree.

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Women who have difficulty getting pregnant come to this temple to pray and there is even a book with pictures of babies who were born after the mother’s visit to the temple.

We had lunch at the Babee Restaurant.  Here is the can of Diet Coke I had!

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From the restaurant, we visited the longest suspension bridge in Bhutan. It is 180 meters long and spans the Po Chhu river. Tashi said Norm directed him to make this heart below the bridge, but of course he was joking!

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From here we walked to the Punakha Dzong or Fortress.  Like the one in Thimphu, this is the center of the government here. It is one of the most beautiful and ornate, but we again are only able to take pictures from the outside.

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There are 3 courtyards and the building dates back to the 1600’s.  There were no nails at all used in the construction.IMG_7409

When we got to the third courtyard and were ready to enter the temple, we found that there was a ceremony going on inside, so we waited in the courtyard. When it was over, the monks all filed out and we entered. Boys can choose school or becoming monks as early as age 6!

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When we left the temple, we crossed this bridge to the other side of the river.

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There are lots of dogs everywhere, Tashi says they are all vaccinated for rabies.  They seem to sleep all day and bark all night.  Loved this little puppy!

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Also, there is a strict building code so that all buildings look very similar.

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This guy let me take a picture of his t-shirt.

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The King and his family are well loved here.  Tashi said that the top three students (by the tests done in school) get to visit the King and get a full scholarship to study abroad. People can also visit the King at specific times to discuss issues.

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Tomorrow we will travel to Paro.  We need to take the same road over the mountains and through Thimphu.  Lucky for us, this is the time of the 3 day rhododendron festival, so we will stop at the botanical garden on the way to attend the festival before going on to Paro and seeing the sights there.


Posted in April, Asia, Excursions, World Cruise 3 | 3 Comments