Civitavecchia, Italy (excursion to Rome)

Italy

August 30

First, here are the pictures of my retail therapy purchases from the last couple of days that wouldn’t load yesterday!

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My linen jacket and blouse, mentioned yesterday

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Earrings purchased in Barcelona

And here’s that huge bruschetta that we enjoyed for lunch.

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Another early start – we went from the port of Civitavecchia to Rome.  This is about an hour’s drive.  Along the way, we again saw many olive trees, sunflower fields and vineyards.

We first went to the Catacombs in Rome, an underground maze of tunnels hollowed out of volcanic rock.  The early Christians who were persecuted by the Romans, practiced their religion in secret and buried their dead here.  There were about 150,000 bodies entombed there, some of the tombs were desecrated by the barbarians and many still remain, dug into the walls, sealed with marble or granite.  There were no photos allowed in there, but I did buy two postcards that represent some of the drawings and also the church part.  The Catacombs are 4 levels deep but 2 are closed off because it is too dangerous to go there.  There are very well preserved oil lamps that were used for light, and boy did they need it.  It was DARK down there.  Very interesting.

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There are only 2 subway lines in Rome.  They want more but every time they dig they find more artifacts and so it can take 20 years to get approval for anything.  The guide says it is bureaucracy.

We went along the Appian Way, 8 K of which has been preserved in the ancient way it was, just big enough for 2 carriages to pass by.

Yesterday I wrote about the 1861 unification of Italy.  It turns out that Rome didn’t join the unification until 1870 because the Pope at the time wouldn’t allow it, he was afraid of losing his power.  Deals were made and that’s how the Pope became the governor of the area of Rome as well as being the head of the Catholic church.

We then made our way to Castel Gandolfo, the village that is the summer residence of the Pope.  Well, all except Francis, who doesn’t summer here.  He comes about one day in July and one day in August and the people of the village are NOT happy about it.  He apparently thinks it is for leisure and he doesn’t want to have that type of leisure time.   There are large gardens that produce all of the vegetables for Vatican City, and the garden and papal summer home are all part of the sovereign Vatican State. When the Pope is there, the Swiss Guards are outside.  It is a beautiful little village with 7500 population –  overlooking a lake that was formed by a volcanic crater.  We enjoyed a gelato there and visited some shops, took pictures. There was a mass going on in the church, so no picturesthere. But we saw some nuns walking around

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There was a QR code made out of tile outside the papal summer residence.

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Our last stop was “Monte Due Torri” which is located in the middle of the Albani Hills. This is a farmhouse that has over 2000 years of history.  We first were treated to meeting a woman from the Amici family who have lived there for over 50 years.  She demonstrated pasta making, using just the flour and water.  She makes all the pasta by hand, no machines here! And it is the only place in this area of Italy that produces the balsamic vinegar, most is produced in other areas.

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We enjoyed homemade bread with olive oil and local ham – a bruschetta – with white wine outside, then went in to the restaurant, which used to be a huge cistern.  There we had salad, red wine, lasagne and gnocci with homemade tomato sauce, more delicious bread, and a lovely strawberry and cream dessert layered in phyllo dough.

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We toured the rest of the building and the wine cellar.  A delightful several hours.  Then back to the ship.

Posted in August, Europe, Excursions, Food, World Cruise 1 | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Livorno, Italy (excursion to Cinque Terre)

Italy

August 29

We sailed into the port of Livorno early this morning, and here was the sunrise from the balcony – a beautiful start to the day.

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Livorno is the second largest city in Tuscany with a population of 160,000.  The town walls date back to the 17th century.  I didn’t realize that Italy only became a unified country in 1861, before that there were districts, each with their own language, etc.  Italian language only became consistent in the country in 1950.  Still, our guide Marco says he can tell by the way people talk which area of the country they are from.  Livorno is in Tuscany, but where we are going, Cinque Terre, is in Liguria.

We were advised by Marco that people from Tuscany are pleasant, nice, they will smile at you, but they aren’t honest!  The Ligurians on the other hand are grumpy, complainers and cheapskates, but honest and good workers!  Is this an Italian guide legend or the truth?  I don’t know, but there is a saying – “never let the truth get in the way of a good story!”  We did see a lot of grumpy people though.

This area is famous for its small medieval towns, most of them up on hills like the one in this picture.  We passed many of them, and also passed by Pisa and the leaning tower. The town of Carrara is known for its white marble, mined from the surrounding mountains. The picture is not snow, it is the marble.

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From Livorno, it is a 90 minute trip to Cinque Terre.  We first drove through the port town of La Spezia, then up a winding mountain road to reach the village of Manarola. We then walked a long way down to the village itself.

Cinque Terre is made up of five villages and literally means five lands.  The villages are Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore.  We visited Manarola, Vernazza and Monterosso.  This area is really amazing and worth the visit. There are hundreds of acres of terraces and it is the perfect climate for growing grapes which are everywhere.  My pictures will not do it justice.  There are also lots of lemon and olive trees. The extra virgin olive oil from here is made from 30 different varieties of olive and is said to be one of the best in Italy. Cinque Terre is a proclaimed heritage of mankind by UNESCO and is now a National Park.  Cars can’t travel from village to village so we took two ferries and a train, we also did a lot of walking.

There aren’t really beaches as we know them in the first couple of villages, but that doesn’t stop people from enjoying the water. They sunbathe on rocks, jump into the water from them and just generally swim everywhere. In Monterosso, there are beaches with many umbrellas.  Today was Saturday and also holiday time so all of the chairs under the umbrellas were occupied.

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The village of Manarola

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There are white bags on some of the cliffs that are dropped by helicopter and are full of rocks to repair the terraces.  We saw some people up there doing that repair. Mostly older people are still harvesting the grapes from the terraces, it is such backbreaking work, but it is their heritage.  Marco says that younger people would rather be tour guides and bus drivers!

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This is the home of an 86 year old man who makes these images from plastic and adds lighting. They are put up on the terraces during the holidays and he always does a nativity scene

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Now here’s something you don’t see every day, graffiti or names written on cactus!

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Norm having his wine and bruscetta in a sidewalk cafe in Monterosso.

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Pat enjoying lunch

It was quite hot today and we enjoyed our lunch – the size of the bruscetta is unbelievable, and it was wonderful –  I have a picture of it which again is too slow to upload.   I had some delicious gelato too, of course.

And, of course, a little retail therapy.  I got some Italian linen – a jacket, blouse and scarf. Those pictures are slow to upload so I will add them later.

We took the train from Monterosso to Levanto where we got on the bus back to port.  Chef Mario went to market today and got fresh sea bass and sea bream as well as fresh mussels. The chefs grilled the fish and steamed the mussels in a delicious broth, right on the terrace deck, so we had a lovely dinner there.  And a full moon tonight, what could make a great day even better?

Posted in August, Europe, Excursions, Food, World Cruise 1 | 6 Comments

:-)Cruising the Mediterranean sea

August 28

So another relaxing day at sea.  We started after breakfast with a gathering of people who are on the cruise critic list serv, nice to meet them in person.

We are doing a tour in Petra with 6 of them, and got to meet the organizer so we are all set for that.

Then did our 1 hour walk on the fitness track.  (by the way, yesterday’s walking in Barcelona was 11 miles!)

Chef Mario did another entertaining cooking demonstration, and we had lunch… Blog posting, then relaxing in the spa terrace finishing the Girl on the Train book.

Pedicure at 4, cocktail party, Spanish guitarist Vincenzo Martinelli in concert, then probably casino for some blackjack.  It’s really a tough life here!

We are doing a lot of whale watching today too! Didn’t see them on the whale watching tour but there are many out there today.

We head to Cinque Terre tomorrow, early.  Looking forward to it!

Posted in At Sea, August, Europe, World Cruise 1 | 1 Comment

Barcelona, Spain

Spain

August 27

We spent a wonderful day in Barcelona.  We arrived early and set out to see La Familia Sagrata which we last visited in 2003. We wanted to see how much more has been completed.  Unfortunately, we didn’t think to book our tickets online ahead of time, so when we got there (after a 4.5 mile walk) the first tickets available were for 1:30, which we couldn’t do – even though we were in port until 9 –  because I had an ICF Board meeting at 3, a safety drill at 5:30 and a Spanish dinner at 7.  So we had to be content with viewing from the outside, still awesome!

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So many churches take  hundreds of years to complete so there are many architectural styles in one structure.  Gaudi’s masterpiece… will it ever be finished?

We had a walk on La Ramblos and visited the marketplace – so many wonderful sights and smells, and then those that are a bit over the top like the sheeps heads and feet and the ham with the pigs feet still attached…

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They are very crazy about futbol here (or we call it soccer).  Many people wear jerseys and there are shops everywhere.  Also we have noticed there is a lot of smoking and many men wear pony tails!

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I love the way they pronounce my name… Patreeecia.  Sounds so sexy. And here is a store with my name!

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We had a lovely lunch at a sidewalk cafe, had paella and croquettes of course, and look at the size of these drinks!

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While we were there, a man sitting next to us asked if we would take a picture of he and his son.  I did, and we got chatting.  They are from Haifa, Israel and he is a tour guide there!! We will call him because while we are doing a full day tour to Jerusalem on our first day, the second was cut short due to the transit schedule through the Suez canal the next day. He will take us on a half day guided tour to the Bahai temple and gardens and other sights we wanted to see.  Isn’t travel amazing?!

Now here is a picture you will NEVER see anywhere again. What is it?

 

Wait for it…..

 

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Norm getting his hair cut in Barcelona.

We had a nice Spanish dinner in Toscana with the other world cruise travelers, had a seafood appetizer, including octopus, a choice of rack of lamb or freshly caught sea bass, more paella, and spanish wines.  Dessert was wonderful too.

Another great day!

 

Posted in August, Europe, Food, World Cruise 1 | 2 Comments

Cruising the Mediterranean Sea

August 26

We sailed past the rock of Gibraltar last night, the captain said it would be at 11:28 but it was more like 11:15 so I guess we are making good time!

Here is how we spend our days at sea (more or less…)

Woke up at 7:45.  Today they had a special coffee and pastry get together for the world cruisers with bingo afterwards, so we did that.  We didn’t win.

Then we walked for an hour on the fitness track on the 10th level, it is beautiful and sunny!

Norm did his weights and had some computer time, and I relaxed, I am reading The Girl on the Train, and enjoying it.

We had lunch out on the terrace on the 9th level.  Now I am doing this blog post, and will then go to the spa deck which is a perk for us at concierge level.  There I will relax and read until my hot stone massage at 4.

After that we are having dinner with 3 other couples in Toscana, the Italian restaurant. One of our new friends, Lois, is having a birthday and we will all celebrate there.  Many things to choose from after dinner, we may go to a movie (and yes, they have popcorn).

The movie is Surviving Picasso with Anthony Hopkins.  I usually then spend some time in the casino playing blackjack or poker while Norm reads in the room.

Tomorrow is Barcelona and about 500 passengers will leave here and another 500 will join for the next segment – to Dubai.  Lots of new friends to meet.

There have been 3 different art instructors on the cruise so far.  Here is some of the work I have had fun with.  The artist, Maj, on this segment is fond of collage and I did three of those. Two were interpretations of still life items she had displayed and the third is a travel collage.

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With the previous artist, Suzanne, we made these magnetized signs for our suite doors.

 

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Great subject matter, I used a dining room menu as part of the background

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More great subject matter!

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The art instructor, Maj Kalfus, did cartoons for the New Yorker. She had one in the onboard newsletter every day. The one in my collage says “let’s hydrate”. Very appropriate.

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The butterfly and the apple at the bottom are mine

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the two on the right are mine, bottom right is the door sign.

I missed the bridge lesson today to do the world traveler coffee, and Norm is going to an enrichment lecture about Barcelona while I relax in the spa terrace.

A relaxing day at sea, after eight port days in a row! Looking forward to Barcelona.  We will explore on our own and then I have a 2 hour ICF Board meeting before getting back on board.

Posted in At Sea, August, Europe, World Cruise 1 | 3 Comments

Cadiz, Spain

Spain

August 25

We sailed into the port of Cadiz, Spain about 9:30 this morning – it is a beautiful day here.  Cadiz is considered to be the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in Europe, founded in about 1100 BC.  It is a city of both old and new and surrounded almost entirely by water.  In fact, it used to be an island until they filled in a part and now it is a peninsula.  There are forts, beautiful churches and remains of old city walls, and, of course, beaches.  They have 8 km of beach here.  Today the huge Anthem of the Sea is also in port, and they have enlarged the port so that 6 ships can be here at one time.  Today, only two, thank goodness.

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We took a long walk around the town, we learned that breakfast occurs here at about 10:30 and the cafes were opening up.  In fact, if you want to do business, say at a bank, at 10:30, don’t try.  No matter how long the lines are, the staff takes their break for breakfast.  And, lunch is at 3 and is the main meal of the day, so they will say good morning up until 3. Dinner is at 10 PM, typically, and is usually tapas and drinks.

Parking is tough here and people pay more for a parking spot than for their apartment!

Tapas, by the way, originated here and literally means “lid”.  It was because there was a lot of dirt and dust in the summer so at the outdoor cafes, the customers would put a saucer over their drink, then put ham or other small items in it, just enough to fit in the saucer.  Now we know it as “small plates” and around here it costs usually 2 -3 euros.

Lots of wonderful buildings, not so much tile here.  This is one of the churches – totally unimpressive from the outside, but wow, what is inside!

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A couple of things about this part of Europe in general.  Seat belts are mandatory in tour buses, and the driver can be fined if passengers don’t wear them so we are constantly reminded.  I don’t know about public buses.  Also there are MANY circles or roundabouts here.

Spain is having a tough time now, unemployment is 25% and many young people are leaving Spain to find jobs elsewhere.

A couple of our wanderings, Norm is trying to hold up an old building, and I wanted to buy this dress but he said it wasn’t my color!!!

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Look at the size of those knockers!

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After lunch (and we do not eat lunch at 3!) we went on a tour of two of the famous “White Villages” of Andalucia, the name of this area of Spain.  On the way, we saw flamingos that summer here and some stork nests, as well as fields of sunflowers that they use for oil, and the olive groves for the oil that they export all over the world.  We also saw bulls that are used for bull fighting, those bulls are treated like royalty here.  There are many wind turbines and if people agree to have them on their land, they are paid 6000 euros/windmill/year and they can have up to 6.

The villages are Medina Sidonia and Arcos de la Frontera.  Both are charming. We walked on very narrow streets and visited some churches and saw other historic buildings, most built on the ruins of Muslim buildings from the Arab origins of this area.  In Arcos, we took a small train way up to the village.  We also stopped for tapas before we did the winding walk down.

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We were happy to be here where the temperature only got to 95 degrees, instead of opting for Seville where it reached 120 today, apparently typical of this time of year.

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This is a convent of cloistered silent nuns. They sell pastries but you never see the nuns, they slip them through a small door.

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Our tapas today

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a practically perfect day!

 

Posted in August, Europe, Excursions, Food, World Cruise 1 | 1 Comment

Lisbon, Portugal

Portugal

August 24

The day started bright and sunny but with a wonderful breeze.  We decided against taking the hop on hop off bus because the ship docked close to town.  They often don’t know which pier they will dock at until close to arrival – when there is more than one, and today we were lucky to have the town center so close.

So, we had a lovely day of walking around Lisbon, sight seeing and shopping.  We got an early start because we need to be back on the ship at 2:30 today for a 3 PM departure.

This is another city with lots of tile on the houses and some of the old buildings.

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Here we are enjoying this wonderful city.

 

 

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And here are our shadows!!

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In Porto and also in Lisbon, they use lovely little cable cars around the city as well as city buses.

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Here is one of the flower stands opening in the morning.  Many shops weren’t open when we started, and some of the cafes were just opening their umbrellas.

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Here’s a shop with some of that old port wine we mentioned.  Note the sign!  And the bottles ARE very dirty, many have been there for decades, and the prices show it.

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So we had a lovely time shopping.  The owner of Zara lives in La Corona, and I had to pay a visit to the shop.  We both also bought handmade Portuguese shoes!  Love them.

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Yes, these people ARE real and not statues!

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And this IS a statue!  And you can see the way the streets are paved here in Portugal – it is all small pieces and large pieces of granite.

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Here’s the guard at the archeological museum, not sure why one is needed.

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Another interesting thing – many of the shops are so architecturally interesting, there are lines to get in.  Yesterday they were charging 5 euros to enter a bookstore and you got your money back if you made a purchase.  Here’s a bookstore with the old roman arches, you can see them as you look toward the rear of the store.

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Other interesting buildings and sights.

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Part of the fountain near the archway

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Port, of course!

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Note the fish and the fabric hanging on this balcony – so pretty!

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The archway to the main street from one of the squares.

The archway to the main street from one of the squares.

I am not sure what they do in THESE bathrooms!

I am not sure what they do in THESE bathrooms!

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The view from the ship

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Posted in August, Europe, World Cruise 1 | 5 Comments

Porto, Portugal

Portugal

August 23

Beautiful Porto, Portugal is our port of call today.  It is Portugal’s second largest city and it was a surprise to us just how big it is.  The historic centre is the Ribeira district, a UNESCO world heritage site where there are old storefronts, lots of village style plazas and old houses of commerce with Roman ruins.

We took the shuttle bus into town – it was about a 20 minute ride from the pier to the town.  We then took the hop on hop off bus to see the city.  Many of the buildings are tile on the front which is different from other cities we have seen.  This cathedral was particularly beautifully tiled.  Another style of historic building from the 17th century is pictured below.

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Porto is the birthplace of port wine – named for the city.  Like champagne which can only come from the Champagne area of France (others have to be called sparkling wine – like Cava in Spain), the only Port is from Porto.

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Yes, this is the street with the entrance to Cockburns!

We visited a port wine cave – Cockburns – pronounced Coburns.  It was a fascinating visit and tour, very different from other wineries we have seen.  The barrels they use may be over 100 years old.  They employ 6 coopers who repair barrels and keep them sound.  The big barrel tanks hold 17,000 gallons of wine and the smaller ones hold 650.

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We tasted both ruby and tawny port.  They age the port in barrels and also in bottles. The oldest port they have is 120 years old and would sell for 6300 euros.  We didn’t buy that one! They were voted the best wine in the world (not just port) in 2011.

We then walked around the hilly town (as you can see from that street). Lots of shops were closed because it was Sunday, but we had a nice time and got back to the ship before a big rain and wind storm.  Here are some shots of the city and a couple of the statues we saw.

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Posted in August, Europe, World Cruise 1 | 2 Comments

More from La Corona

August 22

I have been asked to post the picture of the jewelry I bought.  It came from this craft exhibition (all local from this area of Spain) and the website is http://www.ardentia.es

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I am not sure why this statue of John Lennon is here (maybe he performed in this square?)  but I had to have my photo taken with him.

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And a selfie in Spain…with John again (we got to know him pretty well)!

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The day ended with a dinner in Polo, the steakhouse on board.  We enjoyed the wine our travel agent sent (Thanks, Pam).  It is a Silver Trident cabernet sauvignon.  Silver Trident is a Napa winery owned by the owner of the cruise line.  And it is excellent.

Just before dinner, this was the sight from our balcony..  All in all a pretty great day.

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Posted in August, Europe, World Cruise 1 | 3 Comments

La Corona, Spain

Spain

August 22

We are now in the north of Spain, in the city of La Corona.  It is typically cloudy here and very green with temperate climate all year.  We expected rain, but it turned out sunny the whole time we were out and rained after we returned to the ship in the afternoon.

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The city symbol

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This is one of Spain’s busiest ports.  It is sometimes called the crystal city as they have a lot of glass here and the buildings that face the sea are notable for this.  Some is plain glass and some stained glass, and it is a beautiful sight.

We visited a market where the local people were buying their fish, meats, fruit and vegetables.

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And the entrance to a lovely garden where John Moore is buried.

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The cathedral here, the 12th century Church of Santiago – the oldest church in La Corona was the first stop on the camino ingles (English route) to Santiago de Compostela. St James is poised on a large column.  There are five smooth grooves here, formed by the millions of pilgrims who have placed their hands here over the centuries.

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We saw one of the fortress castle -St. Anthony’s Castle – a 16th century fort.

We enjoyed the rehearsal of a symphony here while having the first two of our tapas stops at lunch.

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We were lucky to sample many dishes in areas that the locals enjoy their tapas and wine or beer. White wine at the first stop and red at the second.

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The second stop, the King of Ham! And it was all delicious

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The inside of the second tapas place. The ham is all cured differently, which accounts for the different tastes

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New friends from Dallas

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First tapas place overlooking the courtyard and listening to the symphony practice

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We were lucky to sample many dishes in areas that the locals enjoy their tapas and wine or beer.

There was a local arts exhibit and I bought a locally made necklace and earrings.  A beautiful day!

Posted in August, Europe, Excursions, Food, World Cruise 1 | 1 Comment