Kobe, Japan–Day 2

June 18, 2023

Our tour today was “The Glory of Mt. Rokko”. Our guide was Nobuko –she said to call her Nobi. The cable car takes you 900 meters high.

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As you can see, the view from the top would normally be lovely but it was too hazy to see much. The area at the top was really pretty – lots of greenery and flowers.  I wish we would have had more time in the gift shop.  I did buy a pair of earrings and just after I bought them, Nobi came with a certificate for 150 yen discount ((Yen is very undervalued here and that would have been just about $1).  She felt terrible that I didn’t have the certificate and tried to get the clerk to give me the discount in cash which didn’t work, so she took money out of her own wallet and gave it to me.  I protested of course, but she wouldn’t hear of taking it back.  We just added it to her tip at the end of the day.  Here in Japan, tipping isn’t expected and sometimes even considered rude but our guides accepted it even when they seemed confused by the gesture.  The people are unfailingly polite.

Our second stop was the Hakutsuru Saki brewery and museum where we saw the process of making sake. The brand was established in 1743. It was a self guided tour through a very well maintained display of the old tools used throughout the company’s history. Here are just a few pictures of the 10 step process. 

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After the tour, we sampled three kinds of sake.  I liked the lemon flavored one and bought one bottle for us and one for a friend who didn’t go on the tour.  I was surprised that they had a sake ice cream and they also sold this Blue Moon beer!

Our ship left today at 3 PM so we didn’t do anything else after the tour.

Back on the ship, our around the world ambassadors, Carolyn and Paul, held a pub night in Martinis with a sing along.  Very fun and just as crowded as the last one.  Then we had dinner with Bruce and Karen and several other tables of friends who joined in for a Father’s Day dinner.

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Kobe, Japan, Day 1

June 17, 2023

We visited Kobe in 2019 and chose to see Kyoto that time.  Kobe is the fifth largest city in Japan and is famous for its Kobe beef.  We heard that they massage the cattle and feed them beer.  That is apparently what makes the beef so delicious.  I can’t attest to that since I don’t eat it!

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This time we booked a tour called “Highlights of Osaka”.  Our tour guide was Matta.  We learned that Osaka is the second largest city in Japan and is the old capital.  Matta explained that while there are many parks and green spaces in other cities – especially Tokyo, Osaka “only spends money on making money”  not on parks, so it is a very dense city of commercial buildings and factories. 

Our first stop was the Shitennoji Temple which is one of the oldest temples in Japan and the first to be built by the state.It was founded in 593 by Prince Shotoku who supported t he introduction of Buddhism in Japan.

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The surrounding gardens were also beautiful.  Matti told us that turtles and cranes are sacred here.

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We visited the Osaka Castle which dates back to the end of the 16th century.  It is an imposing structure that is surrounded by three moats.  Two are dry moats.  There have been changes over the years, including fires which resulted in some reconstruction.

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People could dress up in the kimonos and the shogun gear and have pictures taken.

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We ate this delicious cheese filled pastry!

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We were in Kobe overnight, so after the tour we walked from the ship to the market area of Kobe in search of a nail salon. We found two but they were booked.  We did a LOT of walking and saw many places to eat and many shops. 

Onboard tonight there was a local traditional show called the Arima Geiko Show.  These women shared the culture of their costumes, wigs and traditional music and dancing. It was interesting to hear that the wigs are very heavy and are made from human Mongolian hair because of its thickness.

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Hiroshima, Japan

June 16, 2023

We had a beautiful sunset when we left Kagoshima yesterday. We left 3 hours late due to a mechanical issue but the captain is planning to make up as much time as he can to have only a slightly late arrival into Hiroshima.

Here are some photos of our sail in to the harbor. We arrived only 30 minutes after our scheduled arrival. Well done, captain!

Hiroshima means “wide island”. It is best known as the first city in history to be targeted by a nuclear weapon when the United states Army Air Force dropped an atomic bomb on it at 8:15 AM on August 6, 1945 near the end of World War II. The oleander is the official flower of the city because it was the first to bloom again after the explosion of the atomic bomb in 1945. The city government continues to advocate the abolition of all nuclear weapons and the Mayor of Hiroshima is the president of “Mayors for Peace”, an international mayoral organization mobilizing cities and citizens worldwide to abolish and eliminate nuclear weapons.

Today we took a taxi to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum and Peace Memorial Park. We visited the park in 2019 but we were on a tour and it didn’t include the museum. Admission was only 100 yen for us old people – which was $.71 in US money. The museum is a very sobering history of Hiroshima both before and after the atomic bombing.It tells the story mostly through the people’s lives, those who died and those who survived.The museum calls for the abolition of nuclear weapons and eternal world peace. There were many pictures and artists renderings – too many to capture it all for this blog. But it is worth looking on their website. Very sad.

The weather was pretty perfect today – no rain and in the 70s. So it was a nice day to be in the park after we explored the museum.

The park was constructed to make the whole neighborhood of the Nakajima district into a symbol of everlasting peace and a recreation area for citizens. The park was renovated into its current design in preparation of the 50th anniversary of the bombing. The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Ceremony is held here on August 6 every year.

The atomic bomb dome that was damaged and burned. It symbolizes the pledge to convey the horror of the atomic bombing. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Cenotaph for the Victims of the Atomic Bomb (formally known as the Memorial Monument for Hiroshima, City of Peace) was built in 1952. Inside lay registries which contain the names of all the known victims of the bombing, regardless of nationality. Names are added to these registries each year.

Pat ringing the bell of peace
The National Peace Memorial Hall for Atomic Bomb Victims

There was a special exhibition about the Hiroshima War Orphans Foster Home. The bombing deprived many children of their families.
The exhibition describes the history of the home and the life of Gishin Yamashita who introduced the legislation, made contributions and was engaged in the operation of the home. It accepted a total of roughly 170 children until 1953 when operation of the foster home was transferred to the City of Hiroshima.

These paper cranes are made by people around the world and brought to Hiroshima as a symbol of peace. There are thousands on display here.

We had a scheduled departure for Kobe at 4:45 so we took the shuttle bus back to the ship and watched the drummers on the pier serenade us before we left. And we were delayed again today – a bigger ship had to leave before us. It was a huge car carrier.

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Kagoshima, Japan

June 15, 2023

We have been to Kagoshima once before, in 2019. This time we opted to go on the Ibusuki Sand Bath Tour.Our guide was Mayumi and she was probably one of the best guides we have had. The trip to the Sand Baths took 1 hour 20 minutes and she was so informative the whole time. Kagoshima is a port city on the western shore of Kinkowan Bay. It is the southern most major city in Japan’s southern island of Kyushu. The volcano, Mt. Sakurajima, towers 3500 feet over the city and the bay. It is an active volcano and it erupts pretty constantly each day, but not dangerously. The most dangerous eruption was on January 11, 2014. It is the most active volcano in Japan. It was pretty cloud covered all day but here is the best picture I could get.

The city of Kagoshima has a population of 600,000 and is in a beautiful area. Agriculture is the largest occupation and the green tea, sweet potatoes and wagu beef are very popular. Kagoshima is the second largest producer of green tea in Japan. Mayumi said that the pork and beef are both delicious – the pigs are fed sweet potatoes and the steers are fed green tea!

Japan is made up of 14,200 islands. I had no idea! It is the length of Montreal to Jacksonville! There are 124 million people and the cities are quite crowded but you don’t see that in this area.

Mayumi told us many of the Japanese customs including bowing as a greeting. The depth of the bow is lower if the person being greated is of greater stature. It is considered respectful if you greet the person back the way you were greeted.

We reached the Ibusuki Sunamushi Onse Natural Sand bath and spa and got instructions about how it all worked. This is the only hot sand spa in the world so we knew we would be in for something special. We received two towels, a large one and a small one and a summer (cotton) kimono. We had to remove all clothing and shoes and put everything in a locker. We took the small towel with us down to the beach where there were covered sand baths. When the tide is right and the weather is good, the sand bath takes place out on the beach. Mayumi got special permission to take photos of us – it is usually not allowed – and she collected all of our cell phones so that she could walk around and take the pictures. The small towel is wrapped around your head and you lie down in the sand where the workers cover you with the warm sand. The sand underneath you is quite warm too. You only stay for 10 – 15 minutes. The sand is heavy and we both felt our bodies pulsing. The sand is hot from the hot springs. After the sand bath, we came in and showered the sand off, then went into the hot springs pool (women and men separately and naked). It was incredibly well organized as most things in Japan are.here are pictures of what it looks like under cover and out on the beach.

The sand bath hot springs have been used for the past 300 years. Their brochure says that it has been medically proven to have many positive effects on the human body. Research done by professor Tanaka of Kagoshima University Medical Department has demonstrated that sand bathing actively stimulates the heart and increases blood circulation in the body. The literature states that it is effective in relieving the following: neuralgia, rheumatism, lumbago, arthritis, fractures, paralytic effects of stroke, atopy, skin diseases, asthma, diabetes, and sensitivity to cold. It is prohibited for people with high blood pressure over 180, heart disease, irregular pulse, liver disease and fever (although no one asked us!). I am not sure it really relieves all that, but it did feel very relaxing.

Before we left, I found out that you could purchase the cotton kimonos like the ones we wore in the sand. Here is mine! Perfect to use as a robe yet Norm thinks I could wear it to dinner.

On the way back to the ship, Mayumi showed us pictures of how weddings are conducted and the finery worn by brides and grooms – she showed us her own wedding pictures with the 4 changes of outfits! She also explained the reverence for older relatives and how families usually have cemeteries near their homes so that they can visit graves to honor the dead.

Then, we learned how to count in Japanese. She held up cards with each number and the Japanese pronunciation. She quizzed us on some numbers as well. She kept us well informed and entertained the entire trip. I would say she was one of the best guides we had. She gave us samples of Japenese candies and had one of the small towels we used on our heads for each of us – clean ones, that is.

There were some small shops in the terminal and one booth was giving away origami figures. I got this small top that is very beautifully made and it spins.

We got back in time for our lunch and it was the Mexican lunch that we love. Fresh nachos out on the deck. I took my deck walk and while I was out there a huge black smoke came out of a metal pipe and there was loud noise on my whole walk. We were supposed to leave at 3 PM but I am writing this at 5 and we are still in port. Apparently during the weekly test of the back up generator, something was tripped and none of the elevators work. So the ship cannot leave until everything is working. Ned, our chief engineer and friend, was supposed to do a guitar concert at 5:30 but I am guessing that will be postponed. We are schedule in to Hiroshima tomorrow at 10:30 so we will need to see when we can leave and how that will impact tomorrow. Stay tuned!

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Amami Oshima (Naze), Japan

June 14, 2023

This is a new port for us, and we foound out that it is the first time our ship has been to this port. When a new ship comes to a port, the local officials do a ceremony and present a placque to the captain. We were out on tour and didn’t see the ceremony but our friends happened to get off the ship when it was happening.

Amami Oshima is one of eight islands in the Amami archipelago, just some of the numerous islands that spot the stretch of sea between mainland Japan and Taiwan. There are steep tree covered mountain slopes. The island is far from the mainland and to this day, poor weather cuts locals off from food and important deliveries from the mainland. For any serious medical issue, they use helicopters to transport people to mainland hospitals. There are no colleges or universities here and when young people leave for post secondary education (as 96% of them do) most do not return.

Our guide today had a very long Japanese name, so he asked us to call him a short veresion – Kaz. He started off by saying that he works in an insurance office but when he is needed to serve as a guide he tries his best to do so. He said that he failed college entrance exams for a Japanese university four times, so he ended up going to colleage in Las Vegas, Nevada. He majored in hotel management and tourism. He loves this island, though, so he chose to come back to live and has been here for the 10 years since college.

The island has a long history. This town has a population of 50,000 people and the whole island has 100,000. Construction is the main industry and sugar cane production is second.

Our first stop was about 40 minutes from the port and it was Oshima Tsumugimura, a museum and factory tour where they have been making silk woven fabric for kimonos for many years. The site is beautiful. We walked through many tropical like settings with lush plants and beautiful flowers. Our guide here did not speak English, so Kaz interpreted on our tour.

We saw the first area, the dyeing house. Sharinbai trees are chopped into pieces and then steamed with water for 20 hours. The dyeing takes place for 20 times, Then the threads are set to dry. After that, they are dyed with mud fields and they turn into brown. This process is repeated 4 times. Finally, silk threads are changed into elegant black by dyeing 80 times. Fine mud fields contain tannic acid from the trees and the iron in the mud combined.

The pattern is designed by choosing the colors according to the graph paper pattern. Then, the Shime-bata loom is used to tighten the silk threads with cotton. To achieve the desired design, the cotton threads are removed so the silk threads may be dyed to match the specific color in the design. Finally, the fabric is carefully woven to match the pattern. Fine checking is performed every 8 cm where threads are adjusted to ensure accuracy and consistency. It takes a very long time to weave even a small section. A 5 inch section takes about 8 hours. This weaver is 74 years old and has worked there for 46 years. The factory has been there for 1300 years and now it is almost a dying art since like many occupations, the young people don’t want to do this anymore.

We visited the shop which had such beautiful products. Norm bought a shirt and I got a scarf.

Of course he has it on over his own shirt – will take another one later at cocktail hour!

There were hats, purses and all kinds of other accessories. But no kimonos for sale. We couldn’t have afforded one anyway.

Our second stop was to the Shochu distillery which is a 4th generation family business. The owner is a young woman who is friends with Kaz. He said she had been practicing her English and wanted to take half the group through the distillery and the other half would do the tasting and then we would reverse. It is not a big place so that worked well. And she did a good job with her English. This Shochu is only made here on this island and is the oldest of the 27 saki companies. The guide’s great grandfather started the company and it has been family owned since then. Only 6 people work there and run the entire operation. The liquor is similar to a scotch and two of the types were 40 proof and one was 30 proof. Not my style but it was fun to see and taste. It is made from rice, a mold that helps it ferment and both white and brown sugar.

After the tour and tasting, we returned to the ship for a 3:30 PM departure. Our next port is Kagoshima, Japan.

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Okinawa (Naha), Japan

June 13, 2023

Last night was one of the two Oceania Club cocktail parties and for dinner in Toscana, we were invited with our Captain and Chief Engineer along with Erin and Mui. Both gatherings were so enjoyable.

During dinner, the Captain mentioned that it would be a full day of rain on Tuesday. We were in Okinawa in 2019 and since then the Shuri Castle that we visited had a fire and is under construction. None of the tours can go there now since it is closed. We decided not to do an organized tour and we wanted to see the Okinawa Prefectural Museum and Art Museum so we decided to take a taxi directly there. The immigration procedure here took quite a long time. We arrived in port at 11:30 and we had lunch on the ship. Then we got our passports (the ship keeps them most of the time as the officials from most countries come onboard and check and stamp them there). We had to stand in a line to have our pictures and fingerprints taken and passports checked. Norm exchanged some money and we got a cab right outside of the terminal. At this point it was raining lightly. We got an announcement that the ship will leave 30 minutes early to avoid the weather system that is coming in.

Naha is the capital city of Okinawa Prefecture, Japan. In early modern periods and in medieval times it was the commercial center of the Ryukyu Kingdom. The name Naha comes from its original name, Naba, which was the name of a large mushroom shaped stone in the city. Naba is the Ryukyuan word for mushroom. The stone has since become buried but the name remains.

It only took about 20 minutes to get to the museum. Since we were over 70, admission was free! We didn’t expect that. They have a very unique system for audio in the museum.

We had headsets and this board with a stylus attached. You pointed the stylus first at the language you wanted, then at each numbered area you just tapped on the number and the audio started. It was so easy to use because of the actual map that made it easy to find the displays. We could take pictures in the main exhibit hall but not in the art museum.

The museum has a 70 year history – it was established just after the war. Its collection of more than 100,000 artifacts are displayed in a permanent exhibit under the theme “Sea and Island Life – Seeking Prosperity, Beauty and Peace.”

I will post pictures of some of the items in the museum. There were sections on Okinawa history, pottery, wildlife, burial procedures and much more. It was very interesting and I learned a lot of what I had never known (or forgot) about the US involvement in Okinawa.

Old Shurijo Caste Seiden Bell cast by order of the 6th king of the first Sho Dynasty. It symbolizes a prosperous era of the Ryuku Kingdom
A burial case
The pottery was beautiful
Early goggles used by fishermen when they dove with fishing nets
The baskets were stunning
A turtleback tomb.Turtles are considered sacred

When someone dies, they keep the body in a coffin until only the skeleton remains. Then they wash the bones in front of the tomb and proceed with cremation or sometimes re-bury the bones. This ancient tradition is still carried on for many families. More elaborate family tombs can cost as much as a house. Family celebrations are often held at the tomb site.

A holder for ashes

There were two model reproductions of Minatogawa Man as well as skull fragments of people who lived here 20,000 years ago.

We went to the museum cafe for a drink, did a bit of shopping in the museum store and easily got a taxi back to the ship.The tourist bureau at the port was helpful with a map and even wrote out directions in Japanese for us to hand to the taxi driver both ways. Most often, our daily newsletter on the ship gives the translation and we take a photo of it or take the newsletter to show to drivers. It works for the way back to the ship but not to where we want to go, so we were glad to have that. Neither of the taxi drivers spoke any English.

The bathrooms in Japan are quite amazing. The toilets have settings on the side for spray, bidet and even music to hide the sound of urinating and flushing. But for people used to squatting in the bathrooms in countries without western toilets, they also have directions on how to use the western toilet.

I bought some paper earrings in the museum shop. Very unique.

Tomorrow we arrive in Amami Oshima (Naze), Japan, a new port for us.

Posted in Asia, Excursions, June, World Cruise #4 | 1 Comment

Taipei (Keelung), Taiwan

June 11 and 12, 2023

We have only been to Taipei once before and due to the cancellation of Ishigaki, Japan, we have an overnight here.  Last time we were here, we went to the Yangmingshan National Park.  This time, we booked a night tour – Sky Lantern by night.

Because our tour wasn’t leaving until 6:20 PM, we had the afternoon (the ship docked at noon) to explore the city of Keelung which is where the port for Taipei is located.

We wandered around the city and saw several temples, both Buddhist and Tao. We walked through markets and had the chance to buy some mangoes and flowers. We felt very safe everywhere and the traffic is well controlled by traffic lights which allow plenty of time to cross the busy streets.

Here are a few pictures of our sail in.  Many people were gathered on the dock and were taking pictures of us as we arrived!

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Our tour in the evening was led by a guide named Laurene which he said is his French name. He mentioned the Han tribe which our guide, Tom,  from yesterday talked about because he was of Han ancestry. The Han tribe is the world’s largest ethnic group, making up 18 % of the global population.  There are 12 million people in Taipei but only 4000 live  in Shifen which is where we were headed for the sky lantern ceremony.  Laurene said that this ceremony is one of the top 10 things to see and do in Taiwan. The official Sky Lantern festival is held on the last day of Chinese New Year and during the festival, lanterns cover the entire sky.

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It took about 45 minutes to travel to Shifen.  I mentioned in a previous post about the number of 7 Eleven stores here.  Laurene said you can do everything in these convenience stores. They are post offices, restaurants, beauty suppliers and more.  He said there are 13,000 in Taiwan.  The country with the most is South Korea.

There is a train that runs right next to the area of the sky lantern launching.  Here’s what we did:

There were 4 people to a lantern.  These were huge balloon like lanterns with 4 sides, each a different color.  We each had a side to write our wishes on and then we were on the train tracks when one of the people in charge lit the wick inside and we launched the balloon.

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My wishes were Good Health, Happy Children and World Peace.  Norm’s wishes were Health, Peace and No Trump. One woman next to us wrote that last message on hers and one of the people at the same lantern left when she saw it – to join another group. 

I have tried to load the video of the actual launching and the Wi-Fi is too slow, so if I can upload it in port sometime, I will try again.  But the pictures do tell the story as well. The lanterns are beautiful to see in the sky. We had a hard rain storm on the way to the site, so I had the disposable raincoat on which looks pretty stupid in the pictures!  But it did help keep the paint off of my clothes.

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After the launch we browsed in the shops and had a delicious mango smoothie.  We saw a few burned lanterns come down on the ground while we walked to and from the train bridge.

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We returned to Keelung to visit the night market where all types of food are on display and being cooked and served.  There are booths for games, shops for clothing and shoes and some for iPhone accessories and children’s toys. Quite crowded and very interesting. The markets are all around a temple.  Laurene told us about some specialties at numbered shops and we were interested in seeing some of the unusual items.

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Our butler, Rince, left some snacks in our room for when we returned.  It was close to 11 PM but we enjoyed some California rolls, a cheese plate and some sandwiches before we went to bed.  I watched some of the French Open men’s final – not too compelling as Djokovic was certain to win with how he played the first 2 sets.

Today we were only  in port until noon and had to be back on the ship by 11:30 AM.  We had breakfast and headed out to see some of the city sights, especially the Zhongzheng Park which we didn’t get to yesterday. We did a lot of hiking and climbing stairs to reach temples and eventually the white Buddha at the park.  Some of the trails were in deep woods and all of a sudden the mosquitoes started to attack.  Norm had bug spray which helped keep them away.

Here are some pictures of our wanderings (and my completely soaked hair!) We have seen many temples and find some beauty and serenity  in each one.

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It was the coolest weather we have had in weeks.  Not cool, for sure, but only 78 degrees.  It was very humid, though, and we got rained on during our hikes.  We ended the morning with iced coffees at Starbucks.

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Tomorrow we start our series of 12 days in Japan with overnight stays in Kobe (Kyoto) and Tokyo.  It is supposed to be cooler as we sail north.

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Kaohsiung, Taiwan

June 10, 2023

When our ATW itinerary was changed a few months before we departed, they removed China and Hong Kong due to post covid restrictions, so they were able to add Taiwan to our itinerary – you can’t go to China and Taiwan on the same itinerary. Today was our first day in Taiwan and it is a port we have been to twice before. So you can check out the previous posts for lots of information. Today we booked a private tour with Erin and two other couples. Here are some pictures of our sail in to the city.

Our guide was Tom. We had a van with just enough seats for the 8 of us and it took a while for the vehicle to cool down. We have had hot and humid weather for weeks now.

This is the Kaohsiung Music Center which hosts pop music performances and supports networking within the industry

Our guide today was Tom. He toook us on a long drive into the countryside and to the town where he lives. I mentioned in previous blogs how many 7-Eleven shops there are here. This town was no exception. Our arrival into port was at 10:30 and we met him at 11. So, when we got to the town, he thought we could have lunch aat 7 -Eleven. They have everything in these stores here, including so many selections of food that they cook for you. But we really wanted to sit in a restaurant. Tom knew the town well so he took us across the street to what turned out to be a duck restaurant. There were only local people in the place and there was no English menu so it was a good thing he was with us. I had a rice noodle soup with just vegetables and lemon grass and others had soups with meat or rice with pork or duck.

Mui figured out a new way to twist noodles around his chopsticks

What a surprise when our bill for all eight of us, including our food and bottles of water, came to $20 US!

Duck parts and jellied duck blood

We had changed some money at the port because we thought we would have some entrance fees but it turned out t hat since all of us were over 65, we didn’t have to pay anything. So we can use our Taiwan money tomorrow in Taipei.

On our drive, I got to visit with Ron who we have met before but didn’t know much about him and his wife. They now live in Connecticut but lived near Somerville NJ (where I was born) for many years. When I told him we lived in Chambersburg for 25 years – another co-incidence! They have spent many weekends there going to the Totem Pole Playhouse, Kenny’s and the Igloo. It is still surprising how small the world is.

We visited a 17th century church which Tom says is the main Catholic church in the whole area and that on feast days 500,000 people come to the town. This area of Taiwan is mostly aboriginal people whose ancestors have been here for over 10,000 years.

Tom was both our driver and our guide and he answered questions but really didn’t give us too much information in between. He took us to an Indigenous Peoples Cultural Park where we had to take a shuttle up into the hills where we went to a cultural show in a theater. It was interesting and rhythmic with beautiful singing but we really didn’t understand anything about it and he didn’t provide any explanation either.

While on the shuttle we saw this huge rope bridge

It turned out that we hadn’t done anything that was on the original tour desccription that Erin booked, Tom just took us where HE wanted to go. We decided that we wanted to return to the ship as we were a good distance away and we needed to be back by 6:30. But then I guess he felt compelled to take us to two other places that were on the original itinerary. And Sonia asked to stop at a temple. Before we reached those places, suddenly everyone in the car had a loud noise coming from our phones and the following message. Tom says they have 300 earthquakes a day here and most are not even able to be felt. But this one was a 4.3 and although we didn’t feel it, we heard later that others did.

Here are some pictures of the railroad bridge and of the temple and the tile factory.

When we got back to the ship, we had just enough time to take a shower and dress for our dinner with Marilyn and Charlie (on their 34th anniversary) as well as with Laura and Keenan from our entertainment team, Laura’s parents and brother. It was a fun evening. Tomorrow we are in Taipei for 2 days.

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Ilocos (Salomague) Philippines

June 9, 2023

I am not sure how many cruise ships come to this port, but they certainly put on a nice show when we arrived. This fireboat sprayed water – and it was on our side of the ship so we got to watch for about 10 minutes.

There was a large group of dancers on the other side of the ship, but by the time we got off they were resting. Another group gave us these necklaces as we disembarked.

Our tour today was the Ilocos Norte Culinary and Heritage Tour.Our guide was Albert. He gave us a lot of information about the area which is in the northwest of the country. They rely mostly on agriculture here including products such as tobacco, garlic and both yellow and white corn. In his sense of Filipino humor he said that they have yellow corn and white corn but no unicorn. Groan. He also said that a lot of people (including his mother) think that garlic will keep evil spirits away. He also mentioned that is is the National Flag day and Philippine Independence day is next week so that explains the large number of flags we see everywhere. The drive through the countryside was quite beautiful, with the mountains in the background and lots of fields with goats, buffalo and cattle grazing in them.

Our first stop was the Basilica of Juan Bautista which is a Catholic church built in the 1700’s. It is constructed in bricks with no metal and with very thick walls. This, according to Albert, makes the building earthquake proof since the bricks can move with the movement of an earthquake. He said that there are always steps outside which allowed people to climb up to the roof.

You can see the brick construction on both sides of this stained glass window

We visited the home and museum of the artist Luna. Many of his works were on display there, but the real reason for the visit was the first of two food tastings. We had two types of sticky rice wrapped and cooked in banana leaves, a crunchy corn, a coconut drink with fresh coconut shredded into the drink, another large rice cake, a roasted banana with syrup on the outside and skewers of a sweet sticky dough. I liked everything!

Next we visited the Ferdinand Marcos Museum and had a chance to learn more about his early days and his political career. There was an area that highlighted his 11 day courtship of Imelda and their marriage. No mention of later shoe escapades.

Our last stop was at a food court where we ate the empanadas that are famous here. Usually they are made with vegetables, egg and meat but mine was just the vegetables. They were very big, and delicious.

Empanadas are popular, but just down the street was a McDonald’s!

Our bus was parked right next to this sign!

This is an armored car, Philippine style and one of the side car type of cab.

We had about a 45 minute ride back to the ship and it did feel good to be in air conditioning. Tomorrow we arrive for the first of three days in Taiwan.

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Manila, Philippines

June 8, 2023

Yesterday we had a cooking demonstration with our newest guest chef who I had seen on a previous world cruise, Christian Delouvrier. And our own executive chef, Farid, returned to the ship in Bangkok, so both of them led the demonstration and took many questions.

Today is the first of a 14 day stretch of port stops with no sea days in between! We arrived in Manila at 7 AM to the smell of smoke and this landscape. Probably not as bad as the the northeastern US right now.

Our tour was Old Manila by jeepney. We have been in Manila 3 times before and did see a lot of old Manila in 2015, but the jeepney experience was new for us. Our guide was Alvin and he was very good. Nice that he had a headset and microphone so we could hear him as we did our touring.

The jeepney is a vehicle that was repurposed from the jeeps that the American soldiers used during WWII. It is now kind of a small bus with the front built on a jeep chassis. To our surprise, ours was air conditioned, which wasn’t the case originally and some still are open air. Each is decorated according to the interests of the family that owns it. Alvin showed us the different ways that people let the driver know where to stop. One is tapping a coin on the metal bars.

Manila is a huge and overcrowded city with parts that are shabby and run down but other parts that are very much like other booming Asian cities. The population is about 14 million in a country of 113 million on 7641 islands! The Manila traffic is crazy, not unlike other cities we have visited.

Our tour today started at Rizal Park. Dr. Rizal is the national hero in the Philippines. He was multifaceted intellectual and a political activist, best known for his political writings that inspired the Philippine revolution and ultimately led to his execution by the Spanish. Rizal park is a tribute to him and his life. It is also the site of his death by firing squad. We noticed many police as we toured the park and later found out that it would close at 10 due to a visit of the ambassador from Singapore. So we were lucky to get there early.

There were some flyovers and this dog which had blinders on and was presumably being trained to smell bombs.

After the park, we visited Fort Santiago which is now a memorial to the victims of WWII and the sacrifices of the Filipino people in pursuit of freedom. In 1950, Fort Santiago was declared a Shrine of Freedom and restoration began the following year. It forms one corner of the walled city of Intramuros. The site is well preserved and quite somber to visit as many people were imprisoned by the Spanish in the dungeons and more than 600 are buried inside the fort. It was the seat of the Spanish government in the 14th century and the country was under Spanish rule for more than 300 years.

One of the entrance gates
Does that look like dignity and respect to you?
We saw this lovely woman being photographed as we left the fort area.

We went on to visit the St. Agustin Church and museum. The Agustinians set up missions and then the Jesuits arrived here in 1581 and set up more missions which contributed to the cultural, political and religious transformation of Philippine society. 81% of the population is Roman Catholic.

St. Augustine in the center of the altar not Christ on the cross as is typical in most churches

The San Agustin Church was the only building left intact after the destruction of Intramuros in WWII. Built between 1587 and 1606, it is the oldest church in the Philippines.

The museum is very well done and interesting. It contains many artifacts, vestments and statues from the history of the church. The statue’s faces are made of ivory and are truly beautiful.

Only the very rich and well connected could be buried here.

These are all burial markers
These shutters are made of wood and capiz shells

We visited a handicraft shop which had beautiful items. If we didn’t have to take a flight back in San Francisco, I would have bought a basket or two.

Our last stop was the historic Manila Hotel where we had a chance to walk around and see the impressive lobby. Norm took some pictures of these sculptures in a hallway art gallery.

Many dignitaries have stayed here and General MacArthur was one of the guests during his time here. Take a look at the conferences being held today.

We saw the wedding party being photographed – lots of cameras taking their pictures.

It was another hot and humid day (91) and it felt good to return to the cool ship after a full day of Philippine history.

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