Chobe Chilwero, Botswana

April 7 – 9, 2023

After our morning game drive at Chief’s Camp, Chief and Sky helped us get our bags to the safari vehicles and on our Mack Air charter to Kasane Airport for our next adventure at Chobe Chilwero.  This camp is named for its panoramic views over the Chobe River, islands and floodplain.

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We met our guides at the airstrip and they drove us to the camp.  Our guides were Innocent (for our vehicle) and Leonard for the other vehicle.  Both were great and as knowledgeable as the ones we already miss. We had a drink and short orientation and our bags were taken to our rooms.  These rooms were also wonderful – no individual small pools or outdoor shower, but otherwise almost the same.  We had a nice front deck.  One of the differences is that this camp is fenced so almost all the animals you see from your deck or the main building are outside the fence.  We still need to be escorted to our rooms after dark, though, just in case there is an unexpected visitor.

We arrived in time for lunch and to our surprise, it was “make your own pizza day”.  We each got a pizza pan with a thin crust already on it, they added the sauce and there were at least 10 different toppings to choose from. They were cooked in the wood fired pizza  oven – it only took about 5 minutes for each – and it was a delicious start to our stay here.IMG_5883~photoIMG_5884~photo

After lunch we were able to unpack and rest before our afternoon game drive.  We had quite a show of baboons, monkeys and mongoose right outside of our room.

Our afternoon game drive took us to the river.  We enter the Chobe reserve through the gates, and in this reserve, the vehicles must stay on the rough roads.  Once outside the reserve, we can go off road.  We also must leave the reserve by 6 PM.  Chief’s camp had no restrictions and most of our exploration was off road.

Right away we noticed the different terrain – this area is very much more hilly with more trees and far fewer termite mounds.  We also saw fewer animals here than at Chief’s camp.

Here are some of the sightings near the river.

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We did have our sundowners here in the bush, and returned to the lodge where we had an amazing group of native performers while we had pre-dinner drinks.  There were many more people at this camp – probably due to the fact it was Easter weekend. There were groups of young people and some families with children.  These performers got many of the group up and dancing.

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After dinner (again, delicious), we headed back for a good night’s sleep.

We had breakfast, then headed out on the game drive.  Another difference here was lots of vehicles coming in from Zimbabwe for safaris.

Here are some of the day’s sightings.

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I can imagine that none of the readers of this blog will know what this object is… none of us knew until Innocent told us.  I will give the answer at the end!

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This is a dung beetle – it rolls balls of dung along the road! 

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Elephant dung is food for baboons.  The baboons and impala sort of protect each  other – baboons warn impalas when danger is near.  There are also bird calls that the guides use to tell when predators like lions are near.  We were in search of the elusive leopard, but we didn’t find any at either camp. Giraffes and some of the other animals are often seen with birds on them – the birds pick off the insects.

We returned for lunch and rest.  Internet service here was practically non existent – better in the main building, but not great at all. Just as well because we are mostly free of the disturbing news of the world!

We had another afternoon adventure – it was a boat trip on the river.  We had our own private boat and had our sundowners on the river.  What a spectacular adventure seeing elephants swimming and going back across the water to land and seeing hippos for the first time.

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There were many boats on the river, but the area is so big, it never felt crowded.

We got back to the lodge and had cocktails and dinner. After dinner, we got some confusing messages from the camp manager – we were told that our planned 11:50 departure to get to Kasane airport (which is only a 10 minute drive away) was changed to 9:30 and would be instead be picked up and taken to Livingston airport which is in Zambia.  Then she said it was in Zimbabwe (it is in Zambia) – so some people were getting pretty concerned about the change which would include buying a Zimbabwe visa at the border, how long it would take, etc.  To me, it didn’t make much sense since there were other groups of Oceania passengers on overland trips, some to Victoria Falls which is right near that airport while Kasane is so close.   Maybe they got us confused with another group?  And no one could get on the wifi to find out anything about the airport, etc. Later we got the word that we were indeed leaving from Kasane at 11:50 AM so we would have time for a morning game drive and an early lunch before leaving for the airport.

So it was a time to pack (including our newly laundered clothes) and get a restful sleep.

After breakfast, we had a game drive and a coffee stop. Dianne and Phil stayed back at camp.  The guides had gotten the word that there was a pride of lions in the area so we tried to track them  Innocent saw many prints and we went many places both inside and outside of the reserve, but could not find them.  We never found the elusive leopard either.  But the 5 days were simply magical.  Anyone would love this experience.

We left Kasane airport without a hitch at just after 2 PM – after going through immigration – since we were flying from Botswana into Johannesburg in South Africa and then on to Durban where we will meet our home away from home, the Oceania Insignia. 

And the picture?  It is a porcupine quill.  Did you identify it??

Posted in Africa, April, Excursions, Food, World Cruise #4 | 4 Comments

Sanctuary Chief’s Camp, Botswana

April 5-7, 2023

We had an early morning in Cape Town to make sure we were all packed and ready to go for our flight from Cape Town to Maun International, the airport where we got the small charter flight to land at the strip close to Chief’s Camp. Nine of us were on this trip and we were a very compatible group! Chief’s Camp is in the world renowned Moremi Game Reserve. Chief’s Island is one of the many islands created by the seasonal flood waters of the Okavango Delta and is well known for the finest game viewing in Southern Africa.

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Our guides, Sky and Chief, picked us up at the air strip in the safari vehicles and drove us the 25 minutes to the camp.  We started seeing some animals right away!

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The impalas are everywhere and are food for lots of the other animals.  Our only ostrich sighting was here.

Once at the camp, we were met with many staff members who all greeted us.  We had a drink and a snack, got our orientation and were taken to our rooms.  Each room is a separate cabin and they were very luxurious.  Each had both an inside and outside shower, a huge tub, a small outside pool and a porch overlooking game lands. Our room number 5 had its own internet access but it wasn’t too good and I had no time to post anything anyway.  Here are some pictures.

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The main pool and surrounding deck.

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At 4:30 we met our guide, Chief, and set out on our first game drive.  The animals rest in the heat of the day, so the game drives are always in the early morning and late afternoon.

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We were in Toyota safari vehicles.  5 in one vehicle and we had 4 in ours.  Dianne and Jim were our travel companions.

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What can I say except that the first day was already magical.  We saw so many animals, up close!  We knew from our previous safari that the animals only see the vehicle and are not threatened by it, but that we shouldn’t stand up, shout or otherwise let them know that there is something unexpected about the vehicle that could alarm them.

I am going to share probably way too many pictures, but I just can’t help myself!

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This is Chief with an elephant skull.

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The cape buffalo is one of the most dangerous animals.

IMG_5585~photoA baboon on a termite mound.

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We spotted four female lions and stopped to watch them for a while.

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IMG_5552~photoEven the guides call the warthogs “Pumba”!

Near sunset, we met the other group and stopped for “sundowners”, drinks and snacks. Chief had asked us when we arrived what drinks we liked, and he had everything we asked for and more.

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Safari sunsets are wonderful! Both groups celebrate together.

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We came back to camp and freshened up for dinner. We were not allowed to walk anywhere after dark since the property is not fenced in and any wild animals could be there at any time.  We needed to call someone when we went to and from dinner, but it was already light in the mornings.

We had dinner outside near the fire pit and we had a local group of singers and dancers who entertained us.  All drinks and food are included here, and our rooms were stocked with more alcohol then we could have had in weeks! And the food is delicious with many selections. I had no problem with not eating meat, the vegetable dishes were just wonderful.

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After dinner, we got to sleep by 10 since we have a 5 AM wake-up call.

The next morning, we spotted these giraffes under the full morning moon, right near the camp. There were 7 of them out there.

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On Thursday, we had breakfast, followed by a morning game drive, with a coffee break in the bush.  Again, so many wonderful sightings of animals and Chief provided us with descriptions and answered our many questions.  A bonus was seeing the male lions – we spotted something moving, and Chief followed the motion.  We watched them for quite a while.  The guides are very dependent on the tracks they see and can pretty much determine where the animals might be headed, but in the thick of the bush it is more tricky.  The vehicles can go everywhere – even in water.

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Here are some of our sightings.  They have more than 500 species of birds here too, but most were too quick for my photo abilities. I did capture ostrich, Egyptian geese, herons, ibis, egrets and storks.

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They do your laundry every day.  Here are two staff members heading to the laundry, and here is how it comes back to your room.

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We stopped for our coffee break and resumed our game drive.

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We returned for lunch and had some leisure time.

In the afternoon, I cooled off in our own individual pool, and we were entertained by baboons, monkeys and mongoose just off of our deck.  Later, two baboons came to our pool and even took a drink.

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Our afternoon game drive was just as wonderful with many sightings of animals.  One thing we found out was that the rhinos we expected to see here were targeted by poachers during Covid when there were no guests or game drives.  They are hunted for their horns and the numbers were drastically reduced.  So they moved the rest of the to a sanctuary to have them breed and increase the numbers when hopefully they will be brought back to this area. Norm had been waiting for the elephants, and we saw lots of them.IMG_5802~photoIMG_5785~photo

We again had our sundowners and another beautiful sunset, then returned to the camp for drinks and dinner. This time we had drinks around the firepit and dinner on the open air deck. 

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We had another fairly early night because we had another 5 AM wake up so we could have breakfast and another game drive before departing on a small charter plane to Kasane airport and our next safari camp, Chobe Chilwero.

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Posted in Africa, April, Excursions, Food, World Cruise #4 | 2 Comments

Cape Town, South Africa

April 4, 2023

Here is a picture of “the usual suspects” in the casino. We will miss Leah, the dealer in this picture, who gets off in Cape Town.

We arrived in Cape Town and after the face to face inspection we headed out to Boschendal winery for our second Around the World special event. It was about an hour’s s drive and we heard info about Cape Town on the way. The main city is very modern. We have been here twice before and have done the main attractions in the city so we didn’t feel like we were missing anything. We did pass the large townships which is where the poorer people live. Unemployment is 50% here.

In terms of the wine, South Africa is 9th in the world in wine production and about 300,000 people are employed in the industry.

The winery is a large and lovely venue, it would be perfect for a wedding and did not disappoint for our group of about 350. Here are some pictures of the event.

We each got an armband which entitled us each to $30 worth of merchandise at any of the vendors. We were waiting on the bus for about 40 minutes as our driver didn’t let us off when we arrived, saying each bus had to unload one at a time. So the merchandise was mostly gone. Later they replenished but we did get 4 bottles of wine.

Here is the menu- all delicious as was the wine. There was musical entertainment all afternoon.

When we got back to the ship, we finished our packing for our 5 day trip to Botswana. We have to leave the ship at 6:30 to get to the airport.

Posted in Africa, April, Food, World Cruise #4 | Leave a comment

Luderitz, Namibia

April 2, 2023

This is our last port in Namibia and our second time here.  The coastline here is very rocky and there isn’t a huge harbor.  Here are some pictures from our sail in.  We arrived at 10 AM, so I took these while on my deck walk.

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We booked a walking tour today and it started at 12:15, so we had a very quick lunch and joined our guide, Maureen, on the dock.

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Lüderitz is known for its colonial architecture, much of which looks German or Dutch.  The town is named after Adolf Lüderitz, founder of the German South West Africa colony.  It began as a trading post for whaling, seal hunting and fishing and was founded in 1883.  The town has between 15,000 and 30,000 inhabitants depending on the season.  People do come here on holiday. The main occupations are fishing and mining.  The mining is mostly for diamonds.

The town is spotlessly clean and also quite deserted on a Sunday – Palm Sunday.  So most of the shops were closed and just a couple of restaurants were open. We were able to easily get into the museum and the Goerke Haus. 

Maureen pointed out the buildings as we walked and she talked about all of the uses over the years.  There is historic preservation here so the outsides of the buildings must remain the same.  Many had markers indicating that they date back to the early 1900s.

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Our first stop was the museum which was mostly in German, but there were small signs in English on many exhibits.  The museum highlighted the history of Lüderitz and there were also exhibits about the wildlife. 

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Pangolins are endangered here and there is a huge fine if they are taken, hurt or killed. They were one of the animals first suspected of spreading COVID in China, but that was ruled out.

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Ostriches really don’t stick their heads in the sand for no reason.  They actually bury their eggs in the sand since they can’t fly and build nests in trees.  They make a sort of sand nest and what looks like they are burying their heads is really them rotating the position of the eggs to be sure they are uniformly heating.

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We visited the German Church, an impressive building on a hill.

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We walked uphill passing lots more colorful buildings to  reach the Goerke Haus. This was originally the home of Hans Goerke, the manager and co-owner of the German era diamond mining company.  It was constructed in 1910 at the top of Diamond Hill. The inside has elements of Art Nouveau design. It is one of the best preserved buildings in the town.

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The view from one of the balconies was wonderful.

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We walked down past the railway station and the former police headquarters which was preserved when a new building was constructed and houses city offices now.

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A couple of noteworthy signs…

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On our way back to the ship, a young man was on the street telling us about his barber shop.  Norm was planning to make a haircut appointment, so we decided this would be a good place to have a haircut!  The price was $10 and Norm gave him $20 – he was thrilled!

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After our day here we set sail for Cape Town,  We have a day at sea and on Tuesday we will have an around the world event – an afternoon at Boschendal Winery. 

Posted in Africa, April, Excursions, World Cruise #4 | 1 Comment

Walvis Bay, Namibia Day 2

April 1, 2023

What a wonderful day we had!  It has been on the cool side here (in the 60s) so we dressed in layers for our Seal and Pelican Adventure.  We did a similar tour 8 years ago and just loved it, so we signed up for this one on this trip.

It was a very short drive from our ship to the yacht club area where our group of 16 boarded a small boat for our trip into Walvis Bay to view the wildlife there. 

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Our guides were terrific.  The best thing was how they got so excited to show us everything.  Of course, the boat captain and was very knowledgeable and got so excited to show and tell us everything. Here he is showing us the Sedgwick’s Old Brown Sherry, which, of course, we all got to drink.

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Good thing we dressed in layers – but they were well equipped with warm blankets for those who needed them.  There was seating on the front and back of the boat and also under cover and we could climb the ladder to the top of the boat too, which we did for some good pictures.

A bucket of fish immediately attracted many seals (these are fur seals – their ears are on the outside of their heads) and pelicans.  They came right on and into the boat and we got amazing pictures.  I probably have hundreds but won’t post them all!  More than 3 million seals live here.  We learned that the main predator for seals is surprisingly, the seagull.  They pick on the weak or ill seals or the babies and they first peck their eyes out and then eat the rest.  There are also jackals that attack the seals and we got to see one on the shore – in the first picture.

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We saw more flamingos, dolphins and all types of birds including flocks of thousands of cape cormorants. The last picture is one of thousands of terns  – we waited a while for that special sight.

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We got to pet the pelicans (one got mad at me and tried to pick my sunglasses off!) and the seals and just had a great day.

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On our way back to the harbor, we had sparkling wine and snacks, including the local oysters.

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After we got back from the trip, we spent a short while in one of the pier side shops.  I bought two pairs of African socks.

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These Himba women wanted money to have us take their picture so we obliged.

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And here are two women from the shops.

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As you can see, the sun came out and it warmed up nicely.  We walked back to the ship. I would highly recommend visiting Namibia.  Wonderful people and very diverse sights. 8 years ago, we had an around the world event here out in the desert – they put luminarias all up and down the dunes and it was a very special night.

Tomorrow we visit another port in Namibia, Luderitz, where we will do a walking tour.

Posted in Africa, April, Excursions, Food, World Cruise #4 | 2 Comments

Walvis Bay, Namibia

March 31 2023

There is a “Sing Out Loud” group of passengers that practices on sea days, and last evening was their first performance.  It was really wonderful.  The group is made up of a lot of around the world cruisers but segment travelers can join too.  It will continue practice and do several more concerts before we leave in July. Norm may decide to join.  Our friend, Charlie, is in the group.  Here are a picture of the whole group and one with Charlie in the middle.

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Here are some pictures of our arrival.

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Our tour today was Swakopmund Sightseeing.  We drove through Walvis Bay and we remembered how much we liked the city in 2015 when we were here last.  It is very clean and modern.  Our guide was Eddie and he described Namibia as a very peaceful country, but with high unemployment.  The population of Walvis Bay is about 100,000.  The most lucrative occupation is working in the mines. 

Walvis Bay’s English name is Whale Bay.  It is the second largest city in Namibia and the largest coastal city in the country.  The harbor is a safe haven for sea vessels because it is a natural deep water harbor. 

There is a large German influence here and Swakopmund has many buildings that look like they came straight out of Germany.

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The area we drove through, called the Lagoon, has the homes of many wealthy people, and later we drove by the townships as they are called, where the poor people of the area live. There is still a difference in class here. The whole area is spotlessly clean and very different from the other west African ports we visited.

Our first stop was at the Walvis Bay Lagoon, home to many greater and lesser flamingos.  Our friends in the trivia group on board told us that the name for a gathering of flamingos is called a flamboyance! 

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We drove on to Swakopmund and there we first visited the Kristall Galerie. The world’s largest Quartz crystal cluster is on display here.  We didn’t really know what to expect, but it was a beautiful place, many examples of crystals of all types and lots of beautiful jewelry.  Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to decide on buying anything, so we just enjoyed walking around and admiring it all.

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After that we went to the Swakopmund museum.  We really enjoyed that too.  The displays were nicely arranged and highlighted the history of the city.  Here are a few pictures.  The huge basket was used in the past to lower people off of boats.  Looks dangerous to me! There were vendors set up along the street near and across from the museum.  Eddie told us that these vendors are Himbas (related to the Massai) and that the women would be bare breasted.  We saw many who were also nursing children. The Himbas were originally hired as housekeepers for the wealthy Germans.  The men started to fool around with them, so the decision for the ones that wanted to keep their jobs was to wear German clothing including huge hats.  The ones who wouldn’t wear the clothing stayed natural and bare breasted.

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We visited the Brauhaus Arcade, a shopping plaza where I bought some wooden bowls. As you can tell by the name, it has a lot of beer bars. 

Our last stop was Dune 7, part of the Namibian desert.  It is named because it looks like a 7 from the air. Last time we were here we climbed the dune.  This time we only walked a short distance but watched others climb to the top.  We can see the large sand dunes from where our ship is anchored. 

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We are here overnight, so we are happy that there are restaurants close enough to the ship so that our crew can enjoy a night out.

Posted in Africa, Excursions, March, World Cruise #4 | 2 Comments

At Sea

March 28, 29 and 30

Between Sao Tome and our next port of Walvis Bay, Namibia, we had 3 days at sea in the Gulf of Guinea. After our day in Sao Tome, we crossed the equator, and for the first time since COVID, Oceania has allowed the “crossing of the equator”ceremony to take place.

The judge, King and Queen Neptune as well as the “mermaids” and other members of the entertainment team played their parts well. Some of the band members led the procession around the track on the upper deck and the festivities occurred on deck 9 near the pool. Abby and Ilya of the entertainment team had never crossed the equator before and were subjected to the full treatment, lots of food spread all over them before being doused with water, and of course they had to beg to be shellbacks and kiss the fish. Here are some photos.

We had a beautiful sunset the following night. And we had dinner with friends, Brooke and Kim from Toronto.

Charlie brought me some chocolate!

On the 29, we had another around the world dinner, this time in Polo. Here is the menu. Very inventive and delicious. The dessert was amazing, both chocolate mousse and creme brulee in the pineapple bowl.

And here is the photo of our table, one of Paul and just us.

Next, on the 31, we arrrive in Walvis Bay, Namibia. It will be our second time there and we are looking forward to it.

Posted in Africa, At Sea, March, World Cruise #4 | Leave a comment

Sao Tome and Principe

March 27, 2023

Last night was the Oceania Club Cocktail party. I mentioned before that the number of returning guests is so high that they need to do two parties every segment. Last night was the first of this segment. We are always invited to both. But last night was special because we reached the President’s Circle level of membership, the highest level on Oceania. There are only 19 at this level in the whole world. We chose to receive our pins at this party because we wanted to have Ray, our cruise director present. He was with us on all of our world cruises. So we were surprised and delighted when he actually presented our pins instead of the usual procedure of having the general manager, Claudio, do the presentation. It was a nice honor and thanks to friends Marilyn and Ellen, we do have pictures.

Today I had a Board meeting for ICF scheduled at 1 PM my time, so we didn’t have a scheduled tour. There is not pier here, so we have to take the tender (aka one of the lifeboats) to shore. We then took the shuttle to Independence Square, walked through a market and wanted to see if the famous chocolate place was open. No on the chocolate! And it was very hot, so after about an hour of walking, we returned to the ship. The tender takes about 30 minutes to go from ship to shore, so we were back in time for lunch and my Board meeting.

Here are some of the pictures from the ship as we arrived, in the town and when we returned from shore.

It is known as the best chocolate in the world, but who really knows?
Some type of ceremony going on

When I tried to get on the internet for my meeting, the internet was not working at all. I went all over the ship to find someone to help, but no one was available, so on my cell service, which wouldn’t support zoom, I managed to get a message to ICF. Needless to say, I was pretty unhappy but you never know what kind of service we get anywhere.

About 30 minutes after the meeting started, Norm let me know he got a message over the internet, so I was then able to join the meeting for the remaining 90 minutes. No way of knowing what happened, but all’s well that ends well!

We cross the equator this afternoon, and for the first time since COVID, they are allowed to do the crossing ceremony in which “pollywogs” (those who have never crossed) become “shellbacks” (those who have crossed). We have crossed many times, but we will witness the ceremony from the deck. There are several crew member pollywogs and I am sure a big initiation is in store for them. The band usually marches around the deck, King Neptune arrives and the ceremony involves kissing a fish and being douse with some substance, often pancake batter. I will post some pictures tomorrow.

Posted in Africa, March, World Cruise #4 | 3 Comments

Cotonou, Benin

March 25, 2023

Benin is a new country for us. Cotonou is on the coastal strip between Lake Nokoue and the Atlantic Ocean. The city is cut in two by a canal, the lagoon of Cotonou, dug by the French in 1855.  The Oueme River flows into the Atlantic Ocean at Cotonou.  The population is about 700,000.

When we met to get our bus tickets for our tour, Game Village on Stilts, we found that there were 5 buses needed and only 3 were there.  So after we waited about 30 minutes and no buses arrived, the destinations staff told us that instead of the 8:45 departure, we should come back at 9:45 but if anyone wanted to cancel and get a refund, we could.  We opted to wait and I got a cappuccino at Baristas.  Then we went to the open deck to watch the dancers and drummers.  About 40 people did cancel and I assume some booked taxis to do the same tour.  I think the staff was hoping enough would cancel that we would only need the 3 buses.  Well, eventually that was the case, and we set out on 3 buses.

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We had many guides with us and later we found out why.  The two main ones on our bus both talked at once from different points in the bus and it made it very hard to hear.  No microphones were available and they didn’t seem to understand that only one should be talking because we couldn’t hear what either one was saying.

We spotted the American Embassy.

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We stopped at the Bella Naija statue, a 30m tall statue honoring the women warriors of Dahomey. It is also called the Benin Amazone. Benin was once the center of a powerful regional kingdom called the Kingdom of Dahomey.  There was a powerful women’s corp which grew to about 6000 women and was known to be fierce and cruel.

This statue is in honor of the Amazones of Dahomey who were the subject of the recent movie “The Woman King” and depicts these warriors who fought against French colonial rule more than a century ago.

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We passed by markets and noted these men selling cosmetics from the pallets on their heads.

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We then drove through the city and on to Aborney Calavi where we boarded boats that took us to the village on stilts.  Along the way, we saw many people fishing by casting large nets.  From time to time we saw small cages where the fish may be kept for several days.  There are other large areas that are lined with leaves that attract the fish.  Here, the fish might be growing for a year or more, and these are the ones that can be sold for more money.

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We saw people of all ages in small canoe like boats, some with makeshift sails, some with motors and some that were propelled by paddles.  We learned that each family in the village has three boats,  one for the children, one for the wife and one for the husband.

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The village has 45,000 residents and there are schools, churches, mosques, pharmacies, restaurants, hotels and really everything a village would need.  But no bathrooms, the people use the water for everything.  It didn’t smell bad though.

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Each boat had 8 passengers plus a guide – so that is why there were so many guides on our buses.

Here are some pictures from the village and our boat trip there and back.

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We got out of the boats at a restaurant/shop.  We didn’t buy anything except that Norm had a $2 beer which we all thought was a great bargain.  The price listed in their local currency, the CFA Franc, was about 96 cents!

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I wonder if these statues would be outlawed in Florida?

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On the way back, we had a different guide who told us more information about voodoo which pretty much confirmed what we heard yesterday.  He also said that when he was younger, he ate everything but now he believes that the god he worships most commands him to eat only vegetables.

When we returned to the port, I met a port agent who said that our ship is the first one to come there in 5 years.  No wonder many people stared at us as we visited their village.  He also told me that on January 10 of each year, there is a big voodoo celebration that is like our Christmas.

We last  visited west Africa in 2015 and it seems mostly the same as then. Benin is much cleaner than some of the other countries, though.  Geoffrey (one of our guides) said that the city cleans up every night.  Here there is lovely landscaping and clean streets. 

What a different and interesting time we had the last two days.  Next we have a sea day and on Monday, we will visit Sao Tome and Principe.

Posted in Africa, Excursions, March, World Cruise #4 | 2 Comments

Lomé, Togo

March 24, 2023

We had a late tour scheduled today, so we both did our walks first.  There was a rain storm all night with thunder and lightning, and the port workers were sweeping off the water. There was quite a show going on at the port, many dancers, drummers and two guys on long poles dancing to the music. It made the walk much more interesting!

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After the morning tours left, Ray made an announcement that if you were traveling outside of Lomé, you needed to bring your proof of yellow fever vaccination with you, so we got our certificates out, but no one checked them when we left the city later!

Our tour was called Voodoo Ceremony in Sanguera.

Our guide on the bus was Thomas.  We also had two security guards with us and Thomas assured us it was just a precaution! On the way, we saw this hotel and we felt right at home. Smile

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It took almost one hour to reach the village.  When we arrived, we watched the official welcome ceremony done by the chief priest which involved creating libations using maize mixed in a large calabash bowl.  The mixture was then put on the ground and we were allowed to enter into the area of the ceremony.

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The chief priest and other dignitaries sat in chairs and there was a lot of dancing to the drumbeats.  Sometimes, a dancer or another person at the ceremony would seem to almost faint, and another would help them.  There was the maize powder on the ground in front of the chief priest and from time to time, one of the dancers would come for a blessing and rub their head on the powder.  I always love to watch the children and this little girl came and sat next to many of us.  Interesting that one of our passengers was in his wheelchair, and the celebrants often came and hugged him as if they were transmitting healing powers. Others came and danced next to us or shook our hands.

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Thomas had explained that voodoo is a religion, not witchcraft or about other rituals that we might have thought.  He said that the pins in the voodoo doll is something made up by Hollywood!  Like the Hindu religion, people who practice voodoo believe in many gods.  Thomas mentioned four, and when I asked him how many there are, he just said there are “many”.  Norm found information that there are eight main ones.  The gods they believe in have names like dark of thunder and god of land.  People who practice voodoo believe in the worth of all living things. He also said that even people who are of another religion (Catholic, Muslim, etc.) also come to the voodoo ceremonies and count voodoo as their religion too.  I guess they don’t want to take any chances about which religion is best.

The ceremony went on for about an hour.  The village people distributed beer and soft drinks while we watched. Very interesting afternoon and it does give a very different impression of voodoo. When we left, the children of the village lined up to wave goodbye to us.

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Back on the ship, dinner in the terrace was grilled fresh tuna which our chef got at a local fish market.  It was fabulous.

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At night, instead of the show, we had the “seventh annual Togo toga party”.  We had bought outfits in Dakar.  Here are some of the pictures of the evening and some of the costumes.  Many people bought fabric in the various west African cities that we visited and made all sorts of outfits out of them.  Ray said that the shopkeepers thanked him for the many sales they made.

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There were prizes for most creative, best toga, most unusual and funniest.  Ray and Casey chose people who would compete and then the winners in each category were decided by applause and were awarded a bottle of champagne.  Norm was in the creative category (must have been the bow tie!) but didn’t win.  The tall man standing next to him who made his toga from 14 napkins carried that category!

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The entertainment team performed and it was a night of dancing and great fun.  They even had a special toga drink for $7.  I didn’t try it.

Tomorrow will be Benin, a new country for us.

Posted in Africa, Excursions, March, World Cruise #4 | 1 Comment