At sea

March 6, 2023

It is a sea day and my adventure started after breakfast. We were walking down from our breakfast at the Terrace Cafe, when I spotted some food on a step. My attention went to avoiding that, and I missed the last step, fell and sprained my ankle and hit my head on the wall. Head is fine but the ankle started to swell even with the ice I put on it right away. So I headed down to the medical office where they did an xray to determine that there was no break. They did stress that they are not orthopedic specialists and offered to arrange a visit to a specialist or hospital in our next port but I declined that. The xray didn’t show a break and I am not in much pain and can walk on it.

So now both Norm and I are a little mobility challenged. Taking an elevator will be a new experience for me!

So, it is wrapped and I am putting ice on it. But the most interesting was the incident report process that is mandatory when anyone has an accident on the ship. Both Norm and I had to fill out an incident report and I had to have a breathalyzer test! Of course it was 0.00.

So no power walk that I do every day. 😦

We were invited to a reunion lunch for the current passengers who were on the 2015 and the 2016 world cruises. Our cruise director, Ray, our Oceania Ambassador, Cella and our ATW host and hostess, Paul and Carolyn, were with us, and it was really nice to catch up with people we have seen on other cruises and one couple not since 2015. Of course, in 2015 it was the first world cruise for Oceania and there were only 80 of us. Now we have about 390 on this cruise.

Cella took the picture. With us are Ken and Ellen and Arnold and Sandra. There are 15 people on board from the 2015 world cruise.

We will be invited to the lunches for 2017 and 2019 later in the cruise.

New friends Bruce and Karen arranged with the ship to make Hamentaschen for the Jewish holiday of Purim. They were delivered to our door today. Cheers to our executive chef, Farid and our wonderful pastry chef, Sheila. Oceania is truly special. Bruce leads the Sabbath services on the ship and will lead the Passover celebration, which we will miss since we will be off the ship on our Botswana safari then.

Today is also the Captain’s party and we have a dinner reservation in the Italian restaurant, Toscana, tonight. A day that I sure could have used that power walk!

We really never go to the main dining room for lunch – only when they do the special brunch about once each segment. They have a lot of menu items that you don’t see anywhere else. Norm enjoyed this salmon appetizer which he said was one of the best on the ship.

Tomorrow we will be in Salvador de Bahia for 2 days. One day was added after a city, Vitoria, was removed from the itinerary early in the cruise.

Posted in Food, March, South America, World Cruise #4 | 2 Comments

Cabo Frio, Brazil

March 5,2023

As we left Rio, I was able to capture the Christ the Redeemer statue and Sugarloaf Mountain.

We had a tender port at Cabo Frio, and our excursion was a boat cruise and Papagaio Island. Cabo Frio is a big tourist destination. It features miles of beaches (9 beaches in total) with fine white sand which doesn’t have mica so it doesn’t get hot and you can walk on it with bare feet without getting burned. We traveled in the canal Itajuru and viewed the many fishing boats, houses and apartments and rocky spots where there were quite a few people sunning and fishing. We had two stops for swimming. The water was very salty and pretty cold. Frio actually means “cold”.

A nice bonus of the day was that I spotted a mother and daughter that we met on our 2015 cruise, Brooke and Kim, and they were on the same tour so we got re-acquainted and made plans to have dinner together.

Here are some pictures of the trip. Brooke and I went swimming but Norm and Kim stayed on the boat.

Brooke and me
Kim
These people are towing the boat!

There really wasn’t much to do here except boat and beach. So after the tour we walked around a bit, then returned to the ship where I decided to spend the afternoon on the spa deck. Very nice and relaxing.

Posted in Excursions, March, South America, World Cruise #4 | Leave a comment

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

March 3 and 4, 2023

Rio de Janeiro literally means “River of January” and is mostly known as Rio. We were here in 2018 and spent a couple of days here, including the main tourist attractions – Sugarloaf Mountain, Christ the Redeemer statue and Ipanema and Copacabana beaches.  So this time we wanted to see other parts of the city. But to read the post from that trip, click here

Here are some pictures from our sail in.  It was very hazy so I couldn’t get a good picture of Christ the Redeemer (it is at the top of the hazy one!) but the sail in to this harbor is very beautiful even with the haze. You can see two views of Sugarloaf Mountain and the cable car wires.

IMG_3848~photo - CopyIMG_3831~photo - CopyIMG_3834~photo - CopyIMG_3837~photo - CopyIMG_3841~photo - CopyIMG_3842~photo - CopyIMG_3843~photo - CopyIMG_3845~photo - CopyIMG_3853~photo

Brazil is the only South American country where the residents speak Portuguese.

We thought we would do the hop on hop off bus to scan the city and decide where we wanted to get off and see more. To our surprise there was no hop on hop off bus here.  So we came back to the terminal and signed up with a small van tour – but they wanted to take us to all the things we had already seen even though that wasn’t the tour they sold us.  In addition, we waited more than an hour as they wanted to fill the van and there were only 4 of us there.  We got tired of the run around and the wait, so went back to the ship for lunch and after lunch had a wonderful (and cool) visit to the Museu do Amanha (The Museum of Tomorrow).  It is an applied sciences museum which explores the opportunities and challenges humanity will be forced to tackle in the coming decades from the perspective of sustainability and conviviality. The building itself is amazing and we happily spent the whole afternoon exploring the interactive exhibits.  The museum is free to anyone over 60 too! They ask your language when you come in and  give you a credit card sized card that you tap at each exhibit and everything appeared in English. It is really hard to describe it all but it is extremely well done.

IMG_3866~photoIMG_3858~photo

Since it was over 90 degrees out, the museum turned out to be a great choice.

At night, since this is the last night for passengers on this segment, we had a movie – Trash – which we have seen before.  It was filmed in Brazil and was a really good movie. And, of course, the popcorn is always a hit with me.

Our second day here in Rio, we decided to ride the tram on the entire route that goes past the port.  Again, it was air conditioned and free to anyone over 60.  We got an early start and wanted to see the city before our next museum, the Museo de Arte de Río which didn’t open until 11 AM.  We finished our “tram tour” and had drinks at the art museum café.

IMG_3907~photo

The museum itself was really wonderful.  There was a strong African influence in the exhibits on display right now.  I am not sure which are permanent exhibits and which are special ones. 

IMG_3863~photoIMG_3862~photo

Here are some of the exhibits.  One that was really touching was the selection of 60 children’s clothes displayed on racks with holes the shape of the heart. When you looked in the line of clothes through the hole, you could see bullets in the wall.  The exhibit symbolizes gun violence in children.

IMG_3877~photo - CopyIMG_3864~photo - CopyIMG_3869~photo - CopyIMG_3870~photo - CopyIMG_3872~photo - CopyIMG_3873~photo - CopyIMG_3875~photo - CopyIMG_3869~photo - CopyIMG_3879~photoIMG_3880~photoIMG_3881~photo

Music was playing in the courtyard of the museum and this young man was just chilling!

IMG_3885~photo

We really enjoyed our time at the museum, and then decided to take the tram to have la late lunch at the famous Confeitaria Colombo which is not only a landmark of the Cidade Maravilhosa but also one of the most beautiful cafes in the world, besides Café Central in Vienna, Café de la Paix in Paris, or Caffe Greco, in Rome.  Norm ordered a “tall beer” and what he got was a normal bottle of Heineken!

They take your picture when they are ready to seat you but we didn’t buy that one.  Here are some shots I took myself.  It is really stunning inside.

IMG_3886~photoIMG_3890~photoIMG_3891~photoIMG_3892~photoIMG_3895~photoIMG_3901~photoIMG_3902~photoIMG_3903~photoIMG_3904~photoIMG_3905~photoIMG_3906~photo

We leave Rio today at 7 and will arrive at 8 AM tomorrow in Cabo Frio which is a new port for us.  There is no pier for large ships so we need to go ashore in the tenders. 

Posted in March, South America, World Cruise #4 | 1 Comment

Santos, Brazil

March 2, 2023

Yesterday was a sea day, and we had a guest chef do a cooking demonstration with our executive chef, Farid. The guest chef was Philippe Boulot who is currently the Executive Chef at the Multnomah Athletic Club in Portland, Oregon. He has a varied and prestigious background and has won many important honors. He said he oversees 5 restaurants that serve a total of 3000 meals a day. Yet, he finds the culinary operation on the ship extraordinary. The menu he created was Beef Wellington with sauteed spinach, morels and butter whipped potatoes. He also told us how to make the dish with salmon. The dish will be served in the main dining room in a few days since they don’t allow any tasting at these demonstrations since the pandemic. Wise move.

Our tour today was to Santos, which is the port city near Sao Paulo, one of the most populous cities in the world (currently 4th?) Last time we toured Sao Paulo and it took a very long time to get there and twice as long to get back, so this time we decided to see Santos.

Here are two pictures of our sail in. The white building is a fort that once stood as protection from pirates.

Our guide was Pedro. He gave us information about the city – it is the biggest port in South America, 10 miles long. We had to travel in quite a long estuary to get here this morning. The main exports are coffee, sugar and (a surprise), orange juice! In fact there is a pipeline from the orange juice plant to the port itself where it is loaded onto ships for export.

We had a long drive along the beautiful and wide beaches. The city has a series of 7 canals to control flooding. The beach areas seem to be divided by where the canals start.

The minimum wage here is $300/month which Pedro compared to the salary of Thomas Lemar, a famous soccer player, which is $200 million/ year. The city has 450,000 inhabitants and Sao Paulo by comparison has 15 million. A funny thing that Paolo was talking about (and with his accent)- was that there are many cycle paths. Some of the people on the tour thought he was saying “psychopaths” so that took a bit of explaining and after that he called them bike paths!

The tour had three stops. First we went to the Santos Futebol Clube which is where the world famous Pele got his start when he was only 15. He only played on two teams, this one and then the Cosmos in NY. My dad was a huge Pele fan and I remember going to see the Cosmos with him many times. The club is really more of a museum to Pele and other stars. The many trophies on display are quite impressive. The matches are mostly on weekends, so the field was empty and we could see it from one of the doors.

Our next stop was the Zoobotanical Orchid Park. This was a very serene park that we spent about an hour wandering through. The orchid house is closed and you had to look quite closely to find any as they bloom from the trees. We did spot these two.

There were several animals and lots of birds. One of the animals is the agouti. They look like a squirrel without the tail and they roam free in the gardens and bury fruits and seeds. They are quick and I couldn’t get a good shot but here’s the best I could do.

Here are some of the other birds we saw.

There were other animals, many turtles and even a small alligator. It was hot today and this garden was delightful because of all of the shade.

Our last stop was the coffee museum. The building itself is just beautiful. It was the former Coffee Stock Market and was opened in 1922 to focus, arrange and control coffee transactions. This took place in the main hall of the building (Auction Room) until the end of the 1950s. It was opened as a museum in 1988 to preserve and disseminate the history of coffee in Brazil.

The stained glass in the ceiling
The floor of the Auction Room with the seats all around that were used during the coffee price negotiations.

As we drove around the city, Pedro said that they have all of the American based food places – McDonalds, Subway, etc. But even we couldn’t help him with this one!

Tomorrow we arrive in Rio for 2 days. The second day is the end of this segment of the cruise for many guests and of course, the beginning of our next segment from Rio to Cape Town.

Posted in Excursions, March, South America, World Cruise #4 | Leave a comment

Montevideo, Uruguay

February 27, 2023

Before I post about Montevideo, here is the beautiful sail away sunset from Buenos Aires.

For our day in Montevideo, we chose the Jewish Heritage of Montevideo tour. This was our second visit to this city and last time we covered the most important buildings in the town and learned about the culture, so this time we wanted something more specific. Our first stop was the Holocaust Memorial. Our guide was Beatriz and she talked about her own Jewish heritage.

The memorial is on the coast and it is really very well done with lots of symbolism. There were originally about 60,000 Jewish people in the city, many escaping Russia and the czar and others fleeing from the Turkish Empire. Now there are only 8 – 10,000. There are several synagogues in the city and we will visit two of them. The one we won’t visit is the most beautiful, but visitors must submit their passports three days in advance to visit, obviously not possible for us.

The memorial is about 120 meters long and is mostly made of pink granite, with a central window looking out at the sea. A pair of railway rails are at the approach and the central part of the memorial has two wooden bridge crossings. It opened in 1994 as a memorial dedicated to the victims of the Holocaust. The memorial was renovated after several acts of destruction with anti-Semitic slurs.

We had about 45 minutes to walk around the site. There are several placques present, including one by Elie Weisel. They are all in Spanish but you could find a few words that gave you the intent.

After this visit, we went to the Yavne synagogue and school. A young woman from Israel who is doing one year of volunteer work here gave a talk about the synagogue and school. She described it as a place of joy – and the joy radiated in all she said. Everyone is welcome here, which she said is very different from the one she attends in Israel.

There were many students and families there. We were told not to take pictures of the children, and I wanted the picture of the dog. Since this student’s face wasnt in the picture, the young volunteer said it was OK.

Our second visit was to a conservative synagagogue, Tehilat-David. This one was more modern.

We got to see their torahs.

Sfter this visit, we went to Independence Square. Beatriz told us more about the country. There are 3,400,000 people in the country and half live in Montevideo. Voting is obligatory and you lose citizen privileges if you don’t vote. The presidential term is 5 years with no second term. There are lots of homeless people and the minimum wage is $500/month. Inflation stands now at 9 %. They, like many other places, have had months of drought.

After our tour and lunch, we went out for a walk in town and went to some of the shops that we remembered from our last visit. No purchases this time. We wanted to visit the Carnival Museum but it is closed. Here are the window decorations.

On the sail away, we saw this group of abandoned ships. And here is one of the tugboats that we depend on to get the ship in the right position to leave the harbor. Amazing to watch.

Bye for now, Uruguay!
Posted in Excursions, February, South America, World Cruise #4 | Leave a comment

Buenos Aires, Argentina

February 25 and 26, 2023

This is our third time to visit Buenos Aires, so we decided to try to do much needed updates to all of our devices and to try to solve an email problem with my iPhone and my iPad. We intended to go to a hotel but found that the WiFi in the terminal, while not really fast, was good enough to get things done in about an hour and a half. By then lots of passengers for the other two cruises that started here were coming into the terminal so we returned to the ship and spent the rest of the afternoon before preparing for our evening world cruise event. The iPhone issue was fixed but not the iPad – that is still a mystery.

Buenos Aires is the capital of Argentina. It is the fourth most populous metropolitan area in the Americas, with a population of around 15.6 million. There is a lot of European architecture here, one area is mostly French architecture. The city is a melting pot – considered one of the most diverse cities of the Americas.

Arrival into the port

There will be 5 Around the World special events during this 6 months and today was the first. We traveled by bus to a place called La Rural. Here is the description of the event. It was a wonderful evening and really gave us a taste of the culture of Argentina. There were stations spread around the huge pavilion that featured body painting, puppetry, tango lessons and photos in tango accessory costumes.

The description of the evening

Here are some photos of the evening. There were wonderful musicians, traditional gaucho acts, singers and amazing tango dancers. I don’t know how those women wear the 5 inch heels and dance in them too! The lighting wasn’t good to capture most of the tango scenes but I did get one of the opening which depicted the early days of tango when settlers arrived. The later ones with the wonderful costumes and groups of dancers didn’t come out well enough. I might be able to get some from others who sat closer to the stage.

The menu

We had a dinner that was served throughout the entertainment – way too much food – and they did have some non meat items for those who had requested it in advance – like me! It was a great evening.

On Sunday, we met with one of colleagues from ICF, Ines Colle. She picked us up at the terminal and took us all around the city, pointing out lots of things of interest, and we had a walk in one of the parks. There are a lot of open areas and parks with beautiful trees. Some of the wide streets have trees that almost form a canopy over the street. We enjoyed a nice brunch together at the lake and overlooking the golf course. What a pleasure to meet people all over the world and share time together.

Lapacho flowering tree
Jacaranda flowering tree
Ines and me

A wonderful two days in Buenos Aires. On to Montevideo, Uruguay tomorrow.

Posted in Excursions, February, South America, World Cruise #4 | 1 Comment

Punta del Este, Uruguay

February 24, 2023

Here’s a picture of 2 Normans. The “other Norman” is one of our favorite sommeliers on board.

This is a new port for us. The entrance to the port is the widest estuary in the world. The city has been referred to as “the Monaco of the South”, “the Pearl of the Atlantic”, “the Hamptons of South America”, “the Miami Beach of South America” and “the St. Tropez of South America”. And, yes, it is that pretty and has lots of beautiful hotels, beaches and open air restaurants. We heard that there are many Americans living here. The city has a year round population of about 12,400 but during the summer season the number of visitors and residents average 450,000!

Our sunrise at sail in.

Our tour today was a boat trip to Sea Wolves Island where there is a colony of sea lions and fur seals. The scientists confirm that there are over 200,000 animals here, the second largest colony in the world. First is in Namibia.

This is a port that we needed to be taken to by tender, then we boarded a bus for the short trip to the boat that would take us to the island. Our guide was Marcello and he gave the same information both on the top deck and downstairs on the bottom deck. I happened to sit in the area with the very young and opinionated captain who thought he knew everything about the war in Ukraine, US and world politics, etc and he was very polarizing. Some passengers tried to give some other opinions but he would have none of it. His comment was “it is my boat, I can say anything I want, get out of here if you don’t like it”. I guess he never heard of customer service.

Our guide, Marcello

Otherwise it was a pretty calm trip and we sailed around the island for about 45 minutes. It was hard to get photos because we couldn’t get close enough, but I did get a few. There were hundreds of young seals playing in the water – they were fun to watch.

There is a lighthouse on the island, one of the brightest in the world according to Marcello.

The island is called Sea Wolves Island because early explorers hears the sounds of the sea lions and thought they weere wolves, so they didn’t go onto the island. Now the sea lions are referrred to as “sea wolves”.

After the boat trip, we wanted to visit La Mano, which is a sculpture of fingers emerging from the ground near the beach. It was originally part of an open air sculpture exhibition in 1982. At that time it was meant as a warning that the beach was rocky and could be dangerous. Now it is a big tourist attraction!

I wonder where the rest of this big guy is?
Dog spotted on the left!

We got back after 2 so we had lunch in Waves Grill. They make a delicious veggie burger. Tonight will be an Indian Buffet in the Terrace Cafe and it will be nice enough to finally sit outside.

Posted in Excursions, February, South America, World Cruise #4 | 1 Comment

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands

February 23, 2023

We had a very calm crossing of the Drake Passage and still weren’t sure that the conditions would allow us to visit the Falklands, a place we have never been and really want to experience.

Before I get to the day, I got another 4 of a kind in the casino last night. Who says lightning doesn’t strike twice!

IMG_3376~photo

We were scheduled to be at anchor at 8 am and in fact, we were right on time.  Our tour was also scheduled at that time, but by the time we traveled to the port in the tender, it was about 8:20.  Our tour today was to Bluff Cove Lagoon to see the penguins.

We were in a small bus which held only 20 people and our guide was Len.  He is a 5th generation Falkland inhabitant and was very knowledgeable. 

The Falkland Islands are a self governing British country.  The population of the entire country is only about 3000 people. There is free medical care and free education here.  The top three industries are squid and Chilean sea bass fishing, tourism (over 43,000 visitors a year in the season between October and March) and farming. 

To my surprise, there are no trees on the Falklands, it is mostly rocky with white grass plains.  They are very much into sustainable energy and have 6 wind turbines which produce 35-45% of the electricity consumed in Stanley and they have reduced their diesel fuel use by 1 million liters.  They also have a solar farm under construction.

We passed by an area that had 30,000 land mines left after the 1982 war, but the area  has now been totally cleaned – it took 5 1/2 years to do so.

The place we visited is the Bluff Cove Lagoon which is part of a 30,000 acre farm.  They raise sheep and cows and of course there are the penguin colonies along the water.  The two types we saw today are the king penguin, the second largest after the emperor and the Gentoo which is the third largest.

There were lots of guides around the area to answer our questions.

I got many pictures and will post some with explanations.

IMG_3383~photoIMG_3385~photoIMG_3389~photoIMG_3390~photoIMG_3392~photoIMG_3393~photoIMG_3400~photoIMG_3401~photo

The king penguin is later into the breeding season than the Gentoo.  We got some great pictures, including the ones here that show one of them feeding the chick.  The chicks and the eggs (which are all hatched now) are well hidden under the feathers and on the feet of the adults. The chicks are hard to spot so I was lucky.

IMG_3429~photoIMG_3430~photoIMG_3431~photo

The colony of king penguins was much smaller than the Gentoo colonies. Here, the chicks are already about 6 – 8 weeks old and are molting.  They lose their feathers and the new ones grow in during this time. You can see the feathers all around them on the ground. They basically just stand around since they can’t swim in the molting state.  They don’t eat much either unless an adult brings them some fish, but they have stored fat from when they were fed by the parents. If they even try to swim, they would quickly become a snack for the seals. The adult Gentoos do swim and many of them were moving along the shoreline as well.  Hopefully I will be able to upload a video for you to see. I will try it in a separate posting.

IMG_3398~photo - CopyIMG_3399~photo - CopyIMG_3402~photo - CopyIMG_3404~photo - CopyIMG_3405~photo - CopyIMG_3408~photo - CopyIMG_3411~photo - CopyIMG_3413~photo - CopyIMG_3415~photo - CopyIMG_3417~photo - CopyIMG_3437~photo - CopyIMG_3440~photo - CopyIMG_3442~photo - CopyIMG_3445~photo - CopyIMG_3448~photo - Copy

We were scheduled for 2 hours here and it was warmer temperature wise but VERY windy.  At times, I couldn’t hold the camera still.

We walked all around the area and were simply delighted by these beautiful birds.

After our walk, we went to the Sea Cabbage café where we were treated to hot drinks and our choice of two of the many homemade treats offered to us.  There were a lot of posters with information about the area and the country.  And the treats were delicious. They have it set up like a mini museum.  The most current picture was the one of Zelensky!

IMG_3473~photoIMG_3449~photoIMG_3452~photoIMG_3456~photoIMG_3458~photoIMG_3459~photoIMG_3461~photoIMG_3481~photoIMG_3462~photo

The above picture is the wallpaper in the rest room!

Next to the café, there was a charming gift shop where I made some purchases.  And we got to meet the owner of the farm – Hattie –  who also baked all of the goodies. She held up her paper sign “Hattie the baker”.  Norm dropped a photo bomb from the window! The lovely woolen goods here are made from the wool from their own sheep which is sent to Scotland and then back here.

IMG_3464~photoIMG_3466~photoIMG_3475~photo

Due to the winds, the tenders were delayed so we were there an hour longer than scheduled.  Near the café it wasn’t quite as windy.  I did take another walk for some pictures.  I also learned what Sea Cabbage is and it is nothing to eat – it is a plant that gets yellow flowers in season.  Here is a picture.

IMG_3435~photo - Copy

The cows are mostly the Belted Galloway which they call Oreo cows since they have the black and white areas. There are still some sod and stone walls standing. These were constructed to keep livestock in specific areas.

IMG_3410~photo - Copy

We didn’t see any whales although the southern right whale is here this time of year.  Whales were endangered here for years, but they do a census every 2 years and there has been a 51% increase since the previous census, good news indeed.

We returned to Port Stanley and had some time to walk around the town.  They have a huge display of photos depicting “The Essence of Our Community.”  Here are some of them and some others of the two churches, interesting historical buildings, the whale bone arch and yes, the red phone booths!

IMG_3498~photoIMG_3502~photoIMG_3503~photoIMG_3505~photoIMG_3512~photoIMG_3513~photoIMG_3514~photoIMG_3517~photoIMG_3515~photoIMG_3516~photoIMG_3518~photo

Posted in Excursions, February, South America, World Cruise #4 | 2 Comments

Leaving Antarctica and crossing the Drake Passage

February 20, 2023

We sailed past the Shetland Islands on our way out of Antarctica yesterday. The scenery was still quite beautiful although not as impressive as the icebergs. The areas we saw were Admiralty Bay, King George Island and Half Moon Island. There were some whales and penguin colonies but it was too cold to be outside taking too many pictures and they are quick! Here are some shots taken during my walk and also from inside the ship. Every time someone opened a door in the public areas to go outside, we all shivered. This has been spectacular but I am so done with cold weather!

Here were special dinners for the Around the World passengers in Polo and Toscana. It takes two nights with those restaurants closed to other guests to accommodate the almost 400 ATW guests. We were greeted by the ship’s entertainers and the senior staff on our way into the restaurant. There was a special menu just for these dinners.

Norm had the tuna and salmon appetizer and I had the beet one. We both had the soup then he had the lamb and I had the sea bass. All just wonderful with a welcome glass of champagne and the Chilean wines. Our culinary team came out to take a bow!

We had one of our favorite servers, Marina!

Today we are crossing the Drake Passage on our way to the Falkland Islands and we are again very lucky. It is pretty calm. Hoping the weather holds for tomorrow!

Posted in Antarctica, February, Food, World Cruise #4 | 4 Comments

Cruising in Antarctica

February 16-20, 2023

I decided to do one post which will cover our 3 days in Antarctica as well as the 2 days in the Drake Passage on the way to and from Antarctica.

The Drake Passage from Ushuaia was on February 16.  The saying goes that the Drake Passage will either be the “Drake Lake” or the “Drake Shake”.  We were lucky that it was mostly the Drake Lake.  A bit bumpy at times but really a very stable passage.  Our expedition team is on board and provides us with commentary and they are out on deck a lot with their blue penguin vests on so we can identify them quickly when we have questions.  And Stephanie, the leader, has made over 200 trips to Antarctica and she let us know at the show that we were already in Antarctica based on our location gps. 

IMG_3222~photo

On Friday, the 17th, we were surrounded by the Antarctic beauty – massive icebergs and lots of floating ice.  We saw seals, penguins and a couple of whales and Stephanie was on the bridge to keep us apprised of what is coming up.  I was out walking on the deck and taking pictures when it started snowing hard.  After a short while it was too slippery to be walking out there, so I came back to the room and Norm got the binoculars to be a spotter from our balcony.  Later I went back out to walk and I saw that someone had built a snowman!  I am guessing it was a crew member since the golf putters were used as the arms! When we came back out to the deck the crew was clearing the snow.

It is really hard to give a perspective of the size of the icebergs and glaciers, so I took a shot with a ship in it. 

IMG_3268~photoIMG_3258~photoIMG_3257~photoIMG_3256~photoIMG_3251~photoIMG_3248~photoIMG_3247~photoIMG_3245~photoIMG_3241~photoIMG_3233~photoIMG_3231~photoIMG_3230~photoIMG_3229~photo

We cruised Dallmann Bay most of the day and sailed through the Neumayer Channel.  Simply breathtaking.  What is really fun is to see some of the crew outside taking pictures and watching it all in awe.  Most of them are from warm weather countries and have never even seen snow much less the majesty of these glaciers and icebergs.

Speaking of icebergs, the “tip” that we see is only about 10% of the whole thing, – 89-90% is under water.

Here are some of the pictures from our first day here.  I have so many but even with that, they cannot really convey the beauty that we are seeing.  As I have mentioned, we took an expedition ship here in 2014, the Silver Explorer (Silversea) and were simply amazed by Antarctica.  We did get much closer in zodiacs and on land which our larger ship, not an expedition ship, cannot do. But the captain is doing an amazing job maneuvering the ship so we get the best views.

IMG_3281~photoIMG_3273~photoIMG_3270~photo

We got to see Port Lockroy where we visited in 2014.  We bought some items and sent postcards from there – it is a British outpost that is open in the summer months only.  I am wearing the vest I bought there every day.

It stays dark until after 10 PM here – and we were lucky to see whales from our balcony around 8 PM.  No pictures though, they were hard to capture with the camera.

Here is the map of the area we are sailing in.

IMG_3297~photo

In casino news, I was just about to leave for the night and said I would play one more hand at the poker table.  Well, I just about fell off my chair when I had three 8’s which is good by itself, 30 – 1 odds, but because I played the best of 5 with the dealers cards, when she turned up the first of her 3 cards, it was an 8!!!  I have been waiting forever for a 4 of a kind hand and that bet paid 50 – 1.  So glad I played that one extra hand.

On Saturday, the 18th, the plan was to cruise in Paradise Harbor.  As we learned on our previous trip, the weather dictates everything here and the captain tried both entrances to the bay and it was too windy to risk traveling through both of the narrow entrances. So we cruised the Errera Channel instead.  Majestic.  There were several ice formations with Gentoo penguins on them.  And many other beautiful blue ice formations. The penguins were hard to see but I did get some photos.

IMG_3295~photoIMG_3290~photoIMG_3288~photoIMG_3302~photoIMG_3301~photoIMG_3298~photo

A highlight was a humpback whale that was feeding just off the side of the ship.  Here are some pictures I was able to capture. 

IMG_3326~photoIMG_3320~photoIMG_3318~photoIMG_3313~photoIMG_3304~photoIMG_3307~photoIMG_3321~photo

More spectacular ice.

IMG_3329~photoIMG_3328~photoIMG_3327~photo

Our entertainer on Saturday night was an internationally known tenor, Shimi Goodman.  He was fantastic, if you ever get a chance to hear him – take it!  He has performed all over the world and got his start in shows in the West End, UK.  Great show, I can’t wait for his second one.  The guest entertainers always do two shows, a day or two apart and they are always different.

On Sunday, the 19th, we started our journey north in Antarctica, toward the Shetland Islands.  During my walk, it started to rain and the visibility wasn’t that good.  The commentary continued all day and there is really way too much to mention. The team is that knowledgeable!

We passed Deception Island which is named that because it has the outward appearance of a regular island.  In reality, when we went through the entrance, called Neptune’s Bellows, you can see that it is actually a ring around an active volcano! The lava rocks covered with snow are the clue. There are two research stations here, operated by Argentina and Spain during the summer season. There have been many shipwrecks here due to the deceptively shallow areas.

IMG_3337~photoIMG_3336~photoIMG_3335~photo

The largest colony of chinstrap penguins are here but they were really too far away to take pictures of. Some of the passengers have cameras with giant lenses and I am sure they got some good shots.

Around lunch time we came to Half Moon Island which is also part of the South Shetland Islands of Antarctica.  This island looks much like the others in the area, and it is notable for the breeding colony of about 100 pairs of South Polar skuas – they kind of look like sea gulls. Too quick to get any pictures though. Many chinstrap and Gentoo penguins also live here.

IMG_3341~photoIMG_3340~photoIMG_3339~photo

Later we will be back in the Drake Passage and will sail there through Monday, February 20, hopefully it will be as calm as it was on the way south.  On Tuesday, February 21, we will be at Port Stanley, Falkland Islands where we have a tour to the Bluff Cove Lagoon Penguin Safari.  We have never been to the Falklands before and are really hoping we can get in.  It is a 50-50 chance as it is a tender port and the winds can change fast and can impact a potential tender landing.

Posted in Antarctica, February, World Cruise #4 | 5 Comments