Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

April 26, 2019

We have been to Malaysia before but never to the city of Kuala Lumpur.

We arrived in port at about 10 AM and that is when our tour started.  There were some local boats in the water near our port.

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Ruben was our guide and he was very informative about Malaysia as well as the city of Kuala Lumpur (Kuala means estuary and Lumpur means muddy).  He told us there are not 4 seasons here but 4 kinds of weather.  Hot, very hot, wet and very wet!  It was hot today and later turned wet!

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Malaysia has a history of being occupied by many countries over the years and got its independence from British rule in 1965.  It was ruled by sultans and there were 9 of them.  They were deciding who would be the king and they decided to rotate the title among the 9 of them with 5 year terms for each. Only one did it twice and he is the only one left, he is in his 80’s. 

This is a constitutional monarchy so the king doesn’t have much power, he does choose the prime minister (there is an election and generally that is who he chooses, but he doesn’t have to), and he also is the chief of the armed forces.

They have very rich oil and gas resources and it is their top source of income.  Gas here is only 50 cents/liter.

The country is primarily Muslim but is considered a secular country.  The population is 32 million.  They can have 4 wives but most men can’t afford to- only if all the wives work. The average skilled worker makes about $500 US/month.

It took us about an hour and a half to travel to Kuala Lumpur from Port Klang where the ship docked. The city of Kuala Lumpur has a population of 2 million.

Since today is Friday, it is a Muslim holy day and the mosque area would be crowded in the morning, we started the tour at the Central Market and Petaling Street, Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown. We enjoyed both but didn’t buy anything there. This vendor was roasting chestnuts.

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Our next stop was to the Petronas twin buildings, the tallest twin buildings in the world. The Art Deco inspired towers rise 1483 feet.  Unfortunately the tours to the top were closed until 3 because of the holy day and everything after 3 was already booked, so we couldn’t go to the top.  It was interesting to see the buildings from the outside, though and there is a double decker sky bridge connecting the two buildings at the 41st and 42nd floors!

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The buildings are attached to the Suria KLCC which is a modern 6 level shopping center.  And it is amazing.  Every high end store you can think of is here, from Gucci to Marks and Spencer and everything in between.  We were with Tom and Alice who joined the ship yesterday and will be with us till Rome.  We loved walking around and had a nice noodle lunch. They even have a gentlemen’s lounge!

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After shopping and lunch, we drove to the National Mosque and the Old Railway Station. At this point we were well into the “wet” part of the day, so most of my photos are from the bus. We weren’t allowed to visit inside the mosque on a Friday anyway.

IMG_8212IMG_8237The mosque was built in 1965 and has a star shaped dome representing the 13 states of Malaysia and the five pillars of Islam.

IMG_8213This is the Old Railway Station. It was built in 1911 with Moorish architecture.

Kuala Lumpur is a big, modern, clean city and has a lot of colonial architecture that is really nice to see.

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Here are a few other sights.  Yes, lots of motorbikes here.

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We made it back to the ship after we were supposed to be on board – an advantage of booking a ship sponsored tour – they have to wait for you!

Posted in April, Asia, Excursions, Food, World Cruise 3 | 1 Comment

Singapore, Singapore

April 25, 2019

Singapore, the city that is also a country. It is home to 5.6 million people, 39% are foreign nationals.  There is such a mixture of cultures here and it is one of the safest cities in the world.  It consists of one main island and 62 small islands.

The city ranks highly in numerous international rankings and has been recognized as the world’s smartest city, world’s safest country, second most competitive country, third least corrupt country, third largest foreign exchange market, third largest financial center, third largest oil refining and trading center, fifth most innovative country and the second busiest container port.  The Economist has ranked Singapore as the most expensive city to live in since 2013.

Our immigration card states in red… the fate of drug traffickers here:

Although we heard it is changed to life imprisonment now.IMG_4408

It is a city of contrasts from an old Chinese quarter to Hindu temples to huge skyscrapers.

We have been here several times before and I also spent time here with ICF, so today we decided to revisit the Gardens by the Bay, a huge, colorful futuristic park in the bay area of Singapore.  We were there when it was being built, visited when it was partially completed and now were eager to see what has taken place since our last visit.

We took their amazingly efficient and clean MRT system to the Gardens.  We found out quickly that on April 14 a brand new feature was added – Floral Fantasy. This consists of 4 different garden landscapes, each showcasing a different concept.  In addition, there is a 4 D ride called Flight of the Dragonfly.

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It is simply stunning. 

We moved on to the 2 cooled conservatories – and it felt wonderful since it was very hot out.  The main exhibit right now is Tulipmania in an area designed to look like the Netherlands.

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I will share just some of the hundreds of pictures we took in this amazing place. They even had some plants made out of Legos!

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This one reminded us of Bhutan!

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These gardens are just outside the Marina Bay Sands, here is a shot of that and also the huge wheel.

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They also had a display of these poisonous dart frogs.  Very interesting, hard to find them! The natives used to rub their darts on the frogs to get the poison to kill animals.  The display said the poison in what would amount to one grain of salt can kill a human being.  Glad they were behind glass!

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Posted in April, Asia, Excursions, World Cruise 3 | 1 Comment

Ko Samui, Thailand

April 23, 2019

We have been to Ko Samui twice before (search the name on the blog site if you want to see those experiences and photos).  So today, we decided to just take the tender in to the town (this port requires the ship to be anchored off shore). Ko means island in Thai.

The smaller boat is the one that took us to shore, one of  the others is a ferry the the last one belongs to the Royal Thai Police.

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Ko Samui is located in the Gulf of Thailand and is Thailand’s third largest island.  It is surrounded by about 60 other islands. It is circular in shape and about 9.3 miles across. We came into the port of Nathan which is the true commercial hip of the locals and is small enough to walk everywhere. The island was even without roads until the early 1970s and the journey from one side of the island to the other involved a whole day trek.

Today Samui has a population of about 47,000.  It now has a thriving tourist industry with the main appeal of the rural beach communities and the water sports.

It was quite hot but not as hot as Bangkok which was over 100 degrees.  We walked around the town and did some shopping. One of the women I know on the ship always asks if I bought anything.  If I say no, she asks “Do you have a pulse?!!)  So I did have a pulse and bought shoes, a couple of tops, pants and sarongs.  A good shopping day!IMG_7858

We also visited a temple and were the only people there.  I guess we still haven’t seen enough temples!

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And also still not enough markets, which fascinate us every time.

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Here are some other sights we saw. The bakery with my name! The German bakery.  And the kiosks to fill water bottles.  And Thai food.  Which would be common in Thailand, I guess!  Perhaps the sign is for us visitors.

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The boat has a lot of traps.  And the shop caught our eye because of the statues of the cats.

I really liked this Keep Calm sign.

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The ship has made a transition to this boxed water when you go out on tour.  It tastes OK but has a smell of wet corrugated cardboard which is kind of unpleasant. Norm gave the cruise line feedback about it and got the response that it was a test and will be discontinued. Guess this particular kind is not better.  We do applaud their objective to be environmentally positive and they are going to discontinue plastics, but this box isn’t up to their standards.

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We now have a day at sea before our port of Singapore. We have traveled here together three times and I spent a number of days here on an ICF trip, so we will go out exploring on our own this trip.



Posted in April, Asia, World Cruise 3 | Leave a comment

Bangkok, Thailand

April 22, 2019

We flew from Paro, Bhutan to Bangkok yesterday. First of all, it is amazing that neither of us has any soreness at all from our Tiger’s Nest hike!  It must have been the hot stone baths.

Our guide and driver took us to the airport at about 7 AM as they said it is the new rule for international flights that we arrive 3 hours early.  Fine with us. We had booked business class  so the check in line was non existent and we got to wait in their lovely lounge.  They had almost anything you might want to eat there, but we had a good breakfast so didn’t have anything.  Well, except diet Coke which I missed while on this trip. A few hotels had it but not all.

When we checked in, we were given two “fast track” tickets for immigration in Thailand.  We didn’t know the value of these till later.

Here I am heading out to our plane.

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Toward the end of the flight the two passengers in the seat opposite of us went into the cockpit for the landing.  We thought that was unusual, and when we got onto the bus to the terminal in Bangkok, we chatted with them. They are father and daughter and are related by marriage to the king.  They have many US connections including a sibling who attended the Wharton School at the University of Pennsylvania.

The fast track ticket allowed us to go through a special line for immigration and we were the only people there, so  we got through in no time.  Unlike on our trip to Buenos Aires when we waited almost 3 hours.

We did have a wait for the baggage as the planes park pretty far from the terminal and there are lots of flights coming in here.

Our US travel agent, Pam, arranged and paid for our transportation to the ship (Thank you, Pam) and our driver was waiting when we arrived.  Pam also arranged this whole trip through an Indian travel agency and both of them coordinated such a spectacular experience.

We returned to the ship in time to shower and dress for the Around the World special event at the Sampran Riverside. This is a family run cultural destination since 1962.  It took about an hour and a half to get to the site, and we were glad it was Sunday since the traffic wasn’t too bad. 

We were greeted on arrival by musicians, cocktails and were given a welcome garland of fresh flowers.

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As we strolled around the grounds which were decorated with luminarias, we got to see and interact with the local people at the village stalls. There were people walking around with baskets containing locally made potato chips, rice chips, cashews and peanuts. We loved the elephants.

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We were led to dinner by a drum procession by the traditional Angkaloong band and food stalls were set up – many barbecued items, fruits, vegetables and local desserts were served. The foods were typical Thai dishes featuring organic ingredients from the family farm.

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After dinner, there was a Thai cultural show featuring dancing, kick boxing, sword fighting and music. At the end of the show, there were fireworks and a lighting of this special tribute to the Around the World guests.

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Before we left, we got to see the re-enactment of the Loy Krathong Festival which means “to float a  basket”. This is a very Thai tradition, celebrated on the full moon of the twelfth month of the lunar calendar (in November). These special banana trunk leaf and flower arrangements with candles and incense sticks are carried and floated in the river.  The Thais see it as a time to wave goodbye to misfortune, wash away sins of the past year, and make wishes for the coming year.

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Some of us got close enough to the river to float theirs, but we took them back to the hotel with us.

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On both the bus ride to the venue as well as on the way back to the ship, the guides on the buses pointed out places of interest.  There were some beautiful lotus ponds and these light poles are outside of many restaurants and hotels.

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After a very restful night back in our bed, we both decided to have an equally restful day aboard the ship today.  Norm got our 4 bags of laundry ready, we watched the movie VICE, and spent time in the steam room.  The ship has been and still is under GI precautions due to some people with GI symptoms.  We have encountered this on a previous cruise and Oceania does a good job of handling it.  We heard that there is only 1 person still in quarantine but it takes only 1% (about 6 people) to trigger the precautions.  All the outer doors to the rest rooms are left open, the launderette and library are closed, there is plastic over the buttons in the elevator (which we only take when we have luggage with us), the tables in the Terrace cafe are empty until you sit down, then the place mats and cutlery and any condiments you need are brought to you, hand sanitizers are always everywhere but they brought extra to the rooms. Probably this will be cleared up soon, our room attendant, Elena, told us no one in her rooms was affected.

We have been to Bangkok several times before so staying in was good to allow us to catch our breaths after the trip. Here are some of the sights in this city of contrasts.

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Many high rise buildings and also traditional Thai houses can be seen throughout the city.  This is the Chao Phraya River. Our guide told us that the population here is about 12 million people but the immigration numbers are not properly listed so it might be up to 20 million.  It is the 22nd most populated city in the world. There are some amazing sights here, which we have visited before.  The Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha are two that are must see destinations.  Last time we also visited the Royal Barge museum which was very interesting. The Presart Museum and the Jim Thompson house are also interesting places we have visited on previous trips. Previous blog posts would highlight those.

We missed Easter and Passover here but the display in the terrace was still there.

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We have two more cities in Thailand to visit, Ko Samui tomorrow and Phuket on Sunday.

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Paro, Bhutan

April 20, 2019

Well we couldn’t have planned a better last day in Bhutan. We started our day at 7:30 and drove to the base for our hike to Taksang Monastery, commonly known as the Tiger’s Nest. This is one of Bhutan’s best known sites and it the most important temple in the country. It is built on vertical cliffs just outside Paro.  It was first built in 1692. The altitude is 10,240 feet, about 300o feet above the level of Paro.

Both Tashi and Kinley accompanied us on this strenuous hike.  Our fitness trackers said it was 6.7 miles and 153 stories.  The uphill climb is estimated to take 3 hours.  It took us 2 1/2.  Our guides didn’t know until today how old we are, and they said it was quite an accomplishment for people of “our age”.  They thought we were younger. Of course, they are both 32!

The only way to get there is to hike, there is no road and the trail is very rough most of the way.  You can take a horse half way to where there is a cafeteria, there is a separate trail for the horses.  But no horse for us!  The rest of the trail is not accessible for horses. You can’t take the horses down from that area though. Here are Norm and Tashi starting out.

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IMG_7618And here is our goal!

These prayer wheels are made of recycled water bottles.

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Tashi is very good about taking pictures along the way.

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Our guide and driver.  They both made the hike with us!

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The paths through the forest are beautiful and actually serene in spite of other hikers.  There are the beautiful red rhododendrons and this waterfall along the way.  The trees with the “old man’s beards” signify that the air is pure enough for them to grow. There are prayer flags everywhere and the views of the valley and the mountains beyond are simply spectacular.  As we hiked to higher altitudes, the difference in the trees that grow there was also interesting.

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When we got to the top, we were tired but happy.  Again, no pictures in the actual temples but Tashi took us through all of them, explained the beautiful statues and paintings and all of the history of this amazing place.  For us, it was hard to imagine how it was even built back in the 17th century. It is built into the vertical mountain face. It has suffered two fires, one in 1998 when a monk dies trying to save the priceless artifacts here. 20 monks live here now. The monastery buildings consist of four main temples and residential shelters ideally designed by adapting to the rock (granite) ledges, the caves and the rocky terrain.

All the buildings are interconnected through steps and stairways made in rocks. There are a few rickety wooden bridges along the paths and stairways also to cross over. The temple at the highest level has a statue of Buddha and there are other symbolic statues and paintings too. I won’t describe them all here but you probably can get some history on line.  Each building has a balcony, which provides lovely views of the scenic Paro valley down below.

All along the way, we got amazing pictures.

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But, like in all the temples, no cameras were allowed.  Kinley stayed with our things while we toured all of the temples with Tashi, who, as always, provided so much information!

On the way down, we were glad to have our trekking poles! It took about 2 hours to go down.  Norm was feeling it in his thighs, but mine were OK, guess they got strengthened by all of the “squatty potties”, some here, some in China and some in Nepal.

Here we are at the bottom, no worse for wear!

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We went back to Paro for lunch and it was delicious as they have all been. The cabbage dumplings they call momo are outstanding and all of the vegetables great.  Asparagus is in season here and it is served at almost every meal.  They slice it and usually roast or saute it.  Yum.

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Then we went to a farmhouse that provides hot stone baths which Tashi highly recommended after the hike.  Here is the owner explaining the process. Tashi had to book the time because it takes about 5 hours to heat the stones on the wooden fire. The hot stone baths can be found in farmhouses and hotels and are much less expensive in the farmhouses. At this particular hot stone bath, there were several rooms in a wooden shed out in the courtyard. Our room had two wooden tubs, and looked a little bit like open coffins!  Essentially they boil herbs for 12 hours and put them in cold water. They then drop the heated stones into the water and it sizzles as it heats up.  If you want more heat, all you have to do is call out for hot stones and they will drop more into the water which is at the end outside the baths.

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We had a 45 minute soak which was absolutely marvelous. The owner was going to serve us butter tea, but we declined, and headed back to the main street of Paro to do some last minute shopping before heading back to our hotel for dinner and packing.

Here’s our total fitness tracking for the day!

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Our flight to Bangkok where we will rejoin our Around the World cruise, leaves Paro at 10 and we need to be at the airport at 7.  Tashi and Finley will pick us up.  The hotel is just outside the airport.

Norm got this shot of the airport runway.  It should be an exciting take off if it is anything like the landing!

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This whole trip was wonderful in every way!  Hope the posts reflect our joy in being able to experience it.

Posted in April, Asia, Excursions, World Cruise 3 | 5 Comments

Punakha- Paro, Bhutan

April 19, 2019

Last night’s full moon was beautiful as was today’s sunrise in Punakha.  We stayed at the Drubchu Resort, which I wouldn’t particularly recommend.  The gardens were beautiful but the hotel wasn’t the best.

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They did have a safe, but Norm could have carried it out without any problem at all!

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Here are some pictures from our breakfast table window and from around the grounds.  The banana and lime trees were cool.

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When we checked in yesterday, I got a call from the spa to see if I wanted to book anything.  I didn’t because it was already late in the day.  But look at these prices..

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The most expensive is a 90 minute massage for 2350, which is about $34 US.  Wow, on the ship that would be 10 times as much.

We set out on our way to Paro. It is the same road that we took already and it will be about a 4 hour trip.  But first we are stopping at the Royal Botanical Gardens for the Rhododendron Festival.

This is a monastery for nuns high up on the hills.  It is under renovation now, and we didn’t visit, but it looked like it would be interesting.

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More cows in the road.

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We got to the Botanical Garden before the festivities started, Tashi said the sense of time in Bhutan is a bit off! So first we explored the small museum they have here and saw the many school children who were part of the festival as well as some of the families who came to enjoy it.

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This was an interesting exhibit.  When you went in, there was a black curtain and when you pulled it back, you saw yourself in a mirror!  True, that. 

While in the museum, the Director General of the Tourism Council of Bhutan, Dorji Dhradhul, approached us to get feedback about our experience and our guide. We had glowing remarks and got his business card so we can send him an email when we finish the trip. He told us that they are continuously trying to improve although most of their feedback is positive.

On his card, the motto says “Taking Tourism to the Top” and on the back were these 5 items under the topic
“Welcome to Bhutan” 

  • Birthplace of the Gross National Happiness
  • Only carbon-negative economy in the world
  • Young democracy gifted to the people by peerless Kings
  • Mysterious (talking and flying statue, the snowman – yeti)
  • Use of tobacco and plastic in public banned

Tashi said that plastic will be banned entirely very soon.

The Agriculture Minister of Bhutan was the distinguished visitor and he gave his speech in their language and also in English.  Everyone here is very proficient in English. There were ritual dances and performances and we were fascinated by the whole thing. By happy co-coincidence, I sat next to two women from the local village.  The one sitting next to me was educated in France and speaks many languages.  She worked at the World Bank for 3 years.  The other woman was her sister. They were so informative about the customs, the country and we had so much in common in our beliefs.  It was a wonderful part of the day. And it turned out that the woman sitting next to me was the aunt of the leader of the village and a classmate of the Director of Tourism! She had a great sense of humor.  She said that with the men’s national dress, it is a good thing that they need to wear the shawls for rituals because it covers them up.  She said “if they had something to show, it would be all right!” The second photo shows what she means. The white shawls are worn by the men in all fortresses, and for all festivals and rituals.

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They are very proud of this 12th grader who is developing sustainable farming techniques.

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Here are some of the festivities.

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We were ushered into one of the tents when we arrived and so had a very good view of everything. We were served their butter tea (ugh) and some rice.

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We walked to the pond and saw some weaving and other crafts and games on the way – even archery. Sadly, this is the only rhododendron we saw, it is too early for the rest. The women I was talking to want to try to get the festival date moved until all are in bloom. There are 29 different varieties here, and we did see lots of red ones along the road.

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Then we continued on our way to Paro.  This time I did get some shots of the horses.

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We stopped at the pass and got a few more of the Himalayas, I never get tired of looking at those spectacular mountains.

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As we came into Paro, I got some pictures of those roadside signs I posted about before.

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When we passed between Thimphu and Paro going both directions, Tashi had to show our papers to immigration.

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The mountain views in Paro are also beautiful.

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After our lunch in Paro, we went to the museum.  We had to wait a while because they had a power outage.  The actual museum was damaged in the 2011 earthquake and is being renovated, so the contents were moved to a nearby building.  They actually make you put your cameras and phones in a locker here, no photos inside.  It was really interesting, with walls of all the masks used in the dances and lots of information about the birds and animals in Bhutan.

This is the museum that is being renovated – it was the old watchtower.

We continued on to the fortress.  It is smaller than the other two we saw in Thimphu and Punakha but equally impressive. Here’s the admission prices – all of ours are included in the daily charge we paid.

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One of the young monks invited us to light one of the lamps and make our wishes.

We walked back across the bridge in the picture.

IMG_7580IMG_7585IMG_7589The flag of Bhutan.

Our room at the Tashi Namgay.  Very beautiful place.

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Resting up after a great dinner.  Tomorrow we climb to the Tiger’s Nest (Taksang Monastery).

Posted in April, Asia, Excursions, World Cruise 3 | Leave a comment

Thimphu to Punakha, Bhutan

April 18, 2019

The morning started wonderfully since it is our older son, Adam’s birthday!  Well, it is April 18 in Bhutan, but this was a good time to Facetime with him – he was in California –  to wish him the happiest of birthdays.  He is also my web guru and was the one who initially set up my blog, and now my website.  Happy 36th, Adam!

Here is a picture of the sitting Buddha site we visited yesterday.  It shows how it was cut into the mountain and the area still under construction.

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After breakfast, we checked out of our hotel (and look at our view from the hotel this morning)

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and began the 3 hour, 71 kilometer drive to Punakha.  This was the first capital of Bhutan before it was moved to Thimphu.  The road we were taking is the only road to Punakha and was the first road in the country and only built in 1961.  It is a very winding road over the mountain. We saw cows in the road, yaks on the side of the road, and I wish I had been quicker with the camera because about 5 small horses ran right next to my car window.  Maybe I will catch them on the way back tomorrow.

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We reached the Dochula Pass in about 45 minutes.  This is the highest point of the road and definitely closes in the winter.  There was a wonderful view of the Himalayas from this viewpoint.  We were invited in to the small restaurant for tea and a snack.  There are 108 stupas built here in memory of the soldiers who were killed defending Bhutan from invaders in 2003. This was by order of the 4th King w who personally helped to build them.

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After this visit, we continued to Punakha. Tashi told us that the hotel we are staying at has limited beds for guides and asked if we would mind if we stopped there for him to put his bag on a bed so that he would have one for the night.  Interesting.. and OF COURSE we didn’t mind.  In fact, we probably would have paid for a bed!

The hotel is the Drubchuku Resort.  We were not checking in until later but we did get to see the beautiful gardens. This pictures are especially for you, Chris and Sandy!

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As we reached the town, Tashi led us on a hike through the rice and wheat fields.  This is the area of the Chime Lhakhang or the “Temple of Fertility” which we visited after our hike.  On the way, we started to see the many phalluses that are painted on many buildings, and replicas are in most shops.

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This symbol is called the “Magical Thunderbolt” based on Lama Drukpa Kuenley.  He is called the Divine Madman because when he first came to spread Buddhism, he went around the town naked and did a lot of things that made people wonder if he was really a holy man.  The legend says that he subdued a demon with his phallus – the Magical Thunderbolt – chained the demon and turned him into a black dog.  So there is the only black stupa on the grounds of this temple. We are sitting under the Bodhi tree.

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Women who have difficulty getting pregnant come to this temple to pray and there is even a book with pictures of babies who were born after the mother’s visit to the temple.

We had lunch at the Babee Restaurant.  Here is the can of Diet Coke I had!

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From the restaurant, we visited the longest suspension bridge in Bhutan. It is 180 meters long and spans the Po Chhu river. Tashi said Norm directed him to make this heart below the bridge, but of course he was joking!

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From here we walked to the Punakha Dzong or Fortress.  Like the one in Thimphu, this is the center of the government here. It is one of the most beautiful and ornate, but we again are only able to take pictures from the outside.

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There are 3 courtyards and the building dates back to the 1600’s.  There were no nails at all used in the construction.IMG_7409

When we got to the third courtyard and were ready to enter the temple, we found that there was a ceremony going on inside, so we waited in the courtyard. When it was over, the monks all filed out and we entered. Boys can choose school or becoming monks as early as age 6!

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When we left the temple, we crossed this bridge to the other side of the river.

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There are lots of dogs everywhere, Tashi says they are all vaccinated for rabies.  They seem to sleep all day and bark all night.  Loved this little puppy!

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Also, there is a strict building code so that all buildings look very similar.

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This guy let me take a picture of his t-shirt.

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The King and his family are well loved here.  Tashi said that the top three students (by the tests done in school) get to visit the King and get a full scholarship to study abroad. People can also visit the King at specific times to discuss issues.

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Tomorrow we will travel to Paro.  We need to take the same road over the mountains and through Thimphu.  Lucky for us, this is the time of the 3 day rhododendron festival, so we will stop at the botanical garden on the way to attend the festival before going on to Paro and seeing the sights there.


Posted in April, Asia, Excursions, World Cruise 3 | 3 Comments

Thimphu, Bhutan

April 17, 2019

Yesterday I mentioned the old iron bridge and the new bridge – here is a picture Norm took of me on the new bridge!

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And here are some pictures of our hotel room. 

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We dinner at the hotel and there was no alcohol – Tuesday is a dry day here! This is an all inclusive trip so everything including all of our meals are covered, but not drinks.

In the lobby, there are some small booklets and they describe a lot of classes that are offered in the area, everything from painting, basketry, weaving, etc..

I found this one – Not one I would be interested in, but hey, I guess they get enrollees!

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As I mentioned in my previous post, this is a very clean town and most of the buildings are pretty modern. But this one is right behind the hotel.

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Tashi and Kinley picked us up at 9:30 after we had our breakfast at the hotel. 

Our first visit was to the National Memorial Chorten, which is what they call the stupa in Bhutan. It honors the third king of Bhutan who is credited with unifying the country.  When he died, his wife had this temple built in his honor. When visiting these temples, women must have arms and legs covered, and for reasons we don’t understand, men must either have their arms and legs covered, or if wearing a short sleeved shirt, it must have a collar.

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The second picture is of the giant prayer wheels.  There were a lot of elderly people sitting in this area.  Tashi told us that working people drop their elderly parents off at these temples where they spend the day in the company of others!

Next we visited the giant sitting Buddha.  This temple is still unfinished inside and even around the grounds.  It was completed in 2015 and Tashi said it is the highest sitting Buddha in the world.  It sits high up on a hill and is visible from most of the town. The platform is gold tiles. You can also see the views of the town and the many steps to climb up. Now people can drive around to the top, as we did, but when it is all complete, everyone will walk both ways. We walked down the stairs.

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The third place we visited was Changangkha Lhakhang, which was built in the 12th century, but had two different fires and was rebuilt each time.  It honors the monk who spread Buddhism to Bhutan. Here there is a 360 degree view of town.  This is also the temple known for blessing babies and we saw several of them during our visit. You can see the mud and stone construction.  You can’t take pictures inside any of these temples.

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Bhutan is a democracy since 2008 and is  a constitutional monarchy with a king.  There are two equal positions under the king, one is the Prime Minister and the other is the head monk. The king is highly respected but the government is run by the council of ministers headed by the Prime Minister. This is the King’s palace.  You are not allowed to take pictures close to the palace nor are you allowed to point at the palace or really at anything or anyone in and around the temples.

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The national animal here is quite unusual and also rare. It is called the takin and is native to Bhutan.  It has the head of a goat and the body of a cow.  It is very muscular.

We visited the mini zoo to see the takin.  There are also some deer there, and it is really a large wooded area surrounded by fencing with plenty of places  for these animals to roam.

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Next we visited the Folk Heritage Museum.  Tashi is showing us how they made the mud walls and the next picture shows how thick they are.  Many wonderful examples of saddles, baskets, clothing, etc., are inside the museum, but we could only take pictures on the outside.  The kitchens were always on the top floor of the homes so if there was a fire, hopefully it could be put out before the lower floors were involved.

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IMG_7159This was an outside bath which was kind of like the hot stone massages of today, the hot stones both heated the water and massaged the bather!

Lunch at a local restaurant was next.  Tashi and Kinley do not eat with us. And Kinley jumps out of the car to open the door for me every time, while Tashi insists on holding any bags when we make purchases.  They are just great.

After lunch we visited the school for the arts, where we saw students doing clay sculpting, woodworking, sewing and weaving. There is a celebration at the school tomorrow so many students were cleaning up the school and the grounds. They have the sewing machines with the foot pedals.

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The next stop was the textile museum – and it was so impressive. These cloths take 7 months to weave.

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We did some shopping at an area with small shops in wooden structures that lined the street.

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The last stop of the day was at the Tashi Cho Dzong, or the fortress that holds the most important temple here in the capital and also all the government buildings.  Tashi had to wear a special shawl there and we couldn’t enter until 5:30 after all of the workers had gone for the day.  All of the important ceremonies are held here.  Again, no pictures inside, but it is huge and we could take these in the courtyard.

IMG_7226IMG_7227This is the Parliament building which is just across from the fortress.

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A very full, fun and educational day. In some places, Tashi had to show the papers that we were visitors that had paid the daily fee, in others, he paid which also comes out of the daily fee.

Tomorrow we leave Thimphu and travel to Punakha.



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Paro and Thimphu, Bhutan

April 16, 2019

We left the Hyatt Regency in Kathmandu this morning after an early breakfast.  Here’s the view from our room. The red and yellow building is a monastery.

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We were traveling business class to Paro Bhutan and so we had access to the executive lounge, a good place to wait for our flight. The check in and immigration was relatively quick and we had a couple of hours before the flight.

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Once we started on the flight, we realized that the Himalaya mountain range was visible from the other side of the plane, so Norm kept getting up to get these shots. Just spectacular.  An additional shot of Mount Everest is the last one, taken by someone on that side of the plane and shared with us.

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Paro airport is known to be the most dangerous landing in the world. It is in a valley surrounded by mountains that are 18,000 feet high. There are only a few select pilots that are certified to land here and the flights are only allowed under visual meteorological conditions and only from sunrise to sunset.  It was thrilling to be sure!

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Our Bhutan visa papers were checked in Nepal so there was a typical immigration check here which was very quick.  It is a pretty small airport with only two airlines.  Ours was Druk Air which is owned by the Bhutan government. There are 3 other airports in Bhutan but this is the only international airport.

We were met by our guide, Tashi and our driver Kinley. Here is what the airport looks like.

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We set out for the capital city of Bhutan, Thimphu.  The trip was about 90 minutes and we made several stops. On the way, Tashi gave us lots of information about Bhutan.  He also welcomed us with the traditional white scarf (Tashi Khada) and said what a privilege it is to have us visit.

Paro is 7200 feet above sea level and the capital city is 7550 feet above sea level. Bhutan has a population of 800,000 of which 180,000 live in the capital city, Thimphu. There is no pollution here and in many ways is the exact opposite of Kathmandu, Nepal.  You can see for miles and to the bottom of the rivers!

Bhutan has only been open to outsiders since 1974 and only got television and phones in 1999. Now the country is quite modern in this infrastructure.

70 % of the country is covered by forests.

Their only exports are fruits, wood and electricity.  Hydropower is the main source of income and tourism is second.

All tourists must pay US$250 per person per day ($200 in the off season)  with a US $40/30 surcharge per person for us since we are in a group of one/two. This covers accommodation, transport in Bhutan, a guide, food and entry fees. Their motto is high value, low impact (on the country). 30% of this money goes to free health care, free education, poverty relief, and infrastructure for Bhutan’s people. And it shows!

I read about the happiness index and asked Tashi about it.  They are known as the happiest country in the world and in fact measure the  Gross National Happiness Index. The phrase ‘gross national happiness’ was first coined by the 4th King of Bhutan, King Jigme Singye Wangchuck, in 1972 when he declared, “Gross National Happiness is more important than Gross Domestic Product.” If people are happy, GDP will increase too.

There is no immigration at all here. Many people from India (they have a good relationship with India and those visitors do not pay tax) come to work on projects here but must return to their home when the work is complete.

Smoking is not allowed and there is a huge fine if you are caught. There are small signs everywhere about health and safety.  I told Norm they kind of reminded me of the old Burma Shave signs which he said he never saw in person since he grew up in NY and they never had a car!

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This is an earthquake area and no buildings are more than 6 stories high.  They are mostly built of wood and mud to withstand any shaking. Here is an example of a small one.  In the cities they do use different construction for the bigger apartments and businesses.

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We stopped at an ancient temple with an iron bridge that has been there since the 15th century.  It was built by a Tibetan saint and engineer who supposedly built 108 (the holy number) of iron bridges throughout Tibet and Bhutan.  Here it is with the stone entrance – no one can walk on it now but up until a few years ago you could. They have build another suspension bridge to get you over to the temple.

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The prayer wheels, which we also saw in Nepal, contain 1 million of the prayer that is written on the outside, so if you spin it once it is like you prayed 1 million times.  The small white stupas (Tsa-Tsa, pronounced with a silent T– yes, Tashi spells everything for me) are seen everywhere, in the rocks along the road, and near prayer wheels like these. They represent prayers for another person, living or dead.  Sometimes ashes are incorporated.

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Both Tashi and Kinley are wearing the traditional dress for men, the gho. It is also the school uniform for boys.  The dress for women is the kira, also the girls school uniform.

Here are Norm and Tashi and you can see the traditional dress. and here we are in front of the temple.IMG_6999

70% of the people here are Buddhists, the rest Christian and Hindu.

The national language is Dzongkha but everyone learns English starting in primary school.  Tashi and Kinley speak
English perfectly.

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When we arrived in Thimphu, we drove down the main street and went for lunch to the Peace and Harmony restaurant.  I am going to love the food.

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It is the first time I tasted fiddlehead fern.  Delicious.

You will see that a symbol widely used in Bhutan is the penis.  They say you never forget your first one!! Here are two in the restaurant.  I will see what Tashi says about it – but apparently the symbol dates back to a 15th century lama.  I will try not to overdo it with this in the posts but it does present a certain fascination!

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Archery is the most popular sport here, and after lunch we went to an archery match.  This was like nothing I have ever seen before – the distance to the target is 150 yards – 1 and a half times the length of our football field – incredible!  They use bamboo bows. When an arrow hits the target they gather and do a kind of chant and dance!

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After the archery we had a walk through town.  There are no traffic lights and everyone must cross the street at the crosswalk – they call it the zebra crossing because of the stripes! The car traffic is directed by an officer in a booth. The clock tower in the center of town and all of the buildings are just beautifully painted in Bhutanese style.

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Norm went to a money changer and when he asked Tashi to be sure  he got the right amount (about 69 Nigultrum to 1 US dollar), Tashi said that no one counts money here, everyone is so honest!

We are staying at the Ramada hotel and will be sightseeing in this area tomorrow.  Stay tuned!

 

Posted in April, Asia, Excursions, Food, World Cruise 3 | 1 Comment

Kathmandu, Nepal

April 15, 2019

It is our last day in Nepal, hard to believe it went so fast, and we had so many experiences.

Today, Sagar and Zyanu picked us up just before 9 for our day.  As usual, Sagar was prepared with the weather, the sunrise and sunset information and the plan for the day.  He is so very organized – a really wonderful man and guide.  He has enriched our visit for sure.

Our first visit today was to the Pashupatinath Temple.  Dedicated to Lord Shiva, Pashupatinath is one of the four most important religious sites in Asia for devotees of Shiva and it is the most important in Nepal. It is the largest temple complex in Nepal and  it stretches on both sides of the Bagmati River which is considered holy by Hindus. Monday is the day that is dedicated to the Hindu God Shiva and so there were lines of people to get into the temple for worship. They believe that if you worship on the deity’s special day, all your dreams will be fulfilled. As in most Hindu temples, only Hindus are allowed in, but the outsides of the temples are so interesting in and of themselves.

You must be born into Hinduism, there are no actual converts although some may choose to practice the religion.

This Temple and the entire grounds is a World Heritage site.  It is the site of cremation for Hindus.  We witnessed the entire process of cremation from across the river.  In Nepal you are allowed to take photos and videotape the cremation so we did both. To the Hindus, death is an important part of the journey of life so they do not object to people viewing the cremation. You are not allowed to film in India and also no women can attend in India at the Ganges river site, but they can attend in Nepal.

There are three places that people are cremated here.  On the 24th of January 2016, Pashupati Area Development Trust inaugurated the first functioning modern electric crematorium in Nepal at the traditional cremation site near the Pashupatinath temple. It is cheaper and less time consuming.  There is a non Hindu site and then the Hindu site which you can only access through the temple itself.

Sagar explained the process to us. Cremation is done 24 hours after the death. The body is wrapped and brought by bamboo stretcher to the site. Most Hindu people choose to die at home.  If the person dies in the hospital, a metal stretcher is used, and if they die outside of the jurisdiction a casket is used but the body is removed from the casket at the site.

The oldest son is the one that lights the flame, after the feet are washed and a ritual water or milk is put on the lips.  This represents the last act. If there are no sons, a worker at the site performs this ritual. Women are not allowed to light the funeral pyre.

After the cremation, the ashes are put into the river.  Some Hindus put some ashes in a small urn and do a separate ceremony one year after death.

Here are some photos of this unique experience.

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Many families then meet with Brahmins and prepare offerings,  Men shave their heads.  Here are some of those families.

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The temple grounds have monkeys who are always looking for food.

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There are men dressed as Brahmin priests and we gave them a donation for these pictures.

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The lines to get into the temple were very long.

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Sagar told us that if a woman has her sari over her head, she is from India.  They don’t do that in Nepal.   After any rituals, people apply red powder in the forehead as symbol of good luck and mark of celebration. As guests are regarded god in Nepal, visitors are often welcomed in the house putting red dot in the forehead. Married women have the powder extending up into the hair and widows use yellow powder.

Here are some other pictures from the temple area.

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These colors are used for the forehead during festivals.

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Any time  you see a statue of a bull, it is a Shiva temple.

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Sagar told us that Hindus and Buddhists think of life as a piano – the white keys represent what is good in life and the black ones represent our mistakes or what is not so good, and that life is a balance of both. An interesting way to look at things. 

We went on to the Boudhanath Stupa, where we were last night for dinner. This time Sagar led us through the complex and then we had some free time in the area that surrounds the Stupa – a mixture of cafes, shops and restaurants.

Last night’s dinner place.  And these are our food preference instructions with a thank you that Sagar gave us to take to the restaurant.  Most people speak English, but just in case!   Yes, he is that detailed.

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The Stupa is the largest in the world and one of the most flourishing centers of Tibetan Buddhism in the world. There is nothing inside the Stupa itself, it is solid.

IMG_6806IMG_6810IMG_6811This is a type of stick used for incense.

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After this visit, we said goodbye to Sagar. Zyanu will pick us up for transport to the airport tomorrow morning for our trip to Bhutan.

Sagar drew a detailed map for us of the Thamel  area.  He thought we would enjoy going there for shopping, visiting the Dreams Garden and perhaps dinner.  He also reminded us that the scarf we were given on our arrival to Nepal was to wish us good travel, good luck and good health.  We thanked him so much for all he did for us. We will never forget him or our wonderful trip in Nepal.

After a short rest, we  took a taxi to Thamel and yes, the taxi driver was continuously dodging potholes and other traffic.

Here are some pictures of the beautiful Dreams Garden.

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We really enjoyed walking around this area.  There were all kinds of shops including those for people who will be doing a lot of trekking or mountain climbing.

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Lots of beads everywhere.  These rough type ones are the Hindu beads. 

The smooth ones are used by Buddhists.

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Every time we left the hotel, I meant to get a picture of this – the OTHER KFC.  Kathmandu Food Café!

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On to Bhutan tomorrow!  More adventures await.



Posted in April, Asia, Excursions, Food, World Cruise 3 | 1 Comment